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Prinsu Access Cab Install

Discussion in 'PrInSu Design Studio' started by GHOST SHIP, Mar 16, 2016.

  1. Nov 22, 2016 at 3:50 PM
    #101
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    Thanks I'll keep checking back.
     
  2. Nov 22, 2016 at 4:35 PM
    #102
    dustin19d

    dustin19d Well-Known Member

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    I came up just a tad bit short on insulation material for the roof so I picked up an additional 24 sq ft to finish, which will be enough to do both front doors next spring if not more. The deck seal placement is right above the driver, just to the left of the overhead console. This allowed for easy routing of the light bar wires along the existing factory wiring down the Left A pilar through the fire wall to the Pelfreybuilt fuse block pannel that will go in next spring. It's getting too cold and I spend winters in Florida while the truck stays here.

    20161122_155349.jpg

    The deck seal is designed for boats and so it comes with screws that can be screwed into plastic, wood, carbon fiber, or similar material used in boat construction. Because the roof of our trucks is so thin the threads would easily strip the holes out if you used them. I bought a few 3/4 inch long bolts and nuts to replace the screws. The seal comes with an adhesive foam weather strip that goes between the seal and the application. I applied an additional layer of silicone just in case.

    20161122_155452.jpg

    20161122_160307.jpg

    20161122_163551.jpg

    I drilled the hole in the rubber puck for the wiring off center to leave room for additional wiring down the road, though I don't have plans for anything. In the picture above the harness is just flaping in the breeze, it will be properly secured. There is no way this thing is leaking. The rubber around the wire is supper tight and the unit is torqued down well with that silicone layer.

    Here's a shot of the inside.
    20161122_170722.jpg

    there are quick dissconnects above the cab and immediately below the cab. All the wiring fit in nicely and becuse it follows existing lines I hope to not have any road noise from it bouncing around. I have everything put back together on the inerior and only need to re wire my electrical now. I have aux rear backup lights, bed lights, 3 front HID Floods, and the light bar now that need to get reworked through the blue seas fuse block.

    Overal the PrInSu rack install was fun. It helps that I got over drilling through the truck many years ago when I put the snorkel on, otherwise I can see how it could be intimidating/scarey. This project added 17 holes bringin the total to 27 holes I've put in her over 11 years of ownership. Thanks @zscott
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2016
  3. Nov 22, 2016 at 4:58 PM
    #103
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    I like that. What size Scanstrut Deck Seal did you use? They have them at Amazon.
     
  4. Nov 22, 2016 at 5:10 PM
    #104
    dustin19d

    dustin19d Well-Known Member

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    It's the DS30-P. The DS-Multi is BAD ASS and I wish I had enough electrical shit to justify buying it at 3X the price of the DS30. The Multi has an aluminum housing opposed to a plastic composite and a charcoal finish that I dig.

    Someone on these forums installed a DS-Mutli, not sure what thread it is in, but only for one wire which is a waste of $ and space.
     
  5. Nov 22, 2016 at 5:21 PM
    #105
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    Amazon has the DS30-p for $20.90. They have the multi also. Thanks. Thiny the one you used will take an antenna wire and lite bar wire?
     
  6. Nov 22, 2016 at 5:23 PM
    #106
    dustin19d

    dustin19d Well-Known Member

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    Shouldn't have an issue. It comes with several rubber pucks with pre-sized cuttouts but also comes with a solid puck you can drill to customize your application. Plenty of room to drill two holes for an antenna and light bar.
     
  7. Nov 22, 2016 at 6:09 PM
    #107
    Larmo63

    Larmo63 Well-Known Member

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    This whole thread has sold me on the idea of PrinSu racks. I carry surfboards (longboards) and they look stupid on the front or on the back of an AccessCab with a shell. I usually just slide them in the back of the bed with the shell door cinched down with a rubber bungy cord. A wetsuit pads everything. 4' of board hanging out the back. Lame. Anyway, with these racks, you could put the board anywhere you want. So sick. So sold. Install looks pretty easy to do on a 2007, no airbag crap to deal with. Calling and ordering next week......... What is the wait time?


    Why can't you just bolt this straight through the roof with stainless nuts and bolts? No Nutserts?
     
    GHOST SHIP[OP] and DaveEli like this.
  8. Nov 22, 2016 at 6:26 PM
    #108
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    You could, just use fender washers on the inside. I thought about it but decided to use the Rivnuts.
     
  9. Nov 22, 2016 at 7:03 PM
    #109
    dustin19d

    dustin19d Well-Known Member

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    Same same, I thought about it also. I went ahead and used the nutserts because the interior surface is not flat. Depending on where your mount your PrInSu there will be various angles and bends in the sheet metal. The nutserts smash up and conform to those odd angles. It's also easier to make the nutserts water tight IMO. Overall the nutsert is very sturdy, especially when there are 12 of them.

    I think I waited 5-6 weeks? I really don't remember.
     
  10. Nov 22, 2016 at 7:13 PM
    #110
    HackD

    HackD Marching to the Beat of a Different Drum

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    Hamilton, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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    2010 Base 4x2, 2.7L, 5 speed manual 5-lug Slug
    Gone over the Top for a 5-lug..
    There was a 3 week wait on shipping - I had ordered it the last week of September 2015, and it shipped middle of October.

    I've had my access cab rack on my 2010 since February 2016 - love the rack, even though i haven't actually put it to use for anything yet.. it's certainly distinctive.

    It took a while to work up nerve to do the install. I was tripping over the rack in my front hall for a few months before install. I ended up spending a whole lot of time with painters tape, tape measure and various other garage bench toys plotting out where holes would go... and then quadruple-checking everything from beginning to end.

    I started with a metal punch, then to 1/8", and on up from there. Drill points were down to the mm. Incremental, slow speed, and lubing the drill bit to keep things from heating up.

    When i first measured the rack for pertinent drill points, i did it pre-assembled off the truck - I measured and marked those dead center down the body seam.

    I agonized over exact placement of the rack in relation to the roof/windshield measurement off of the front fairing.. i probably spent an hour, on about a 3mm range of travel, going front to back, and then front again, and again, and again... and then i took the lap of faith, and drilled the first holes which would determine whether i had a Prinsu equipped truck, or a good start to a convertible conversion.

    I too also have a lot of airbag crap, and wiring runs under that head-liner - The irony here is that i never did drop that head-liner, although i intended to .. 3x so far. It scares me to mess with that. I did pull it away on the sides, after the fact to get the metal shavings out of the roof and airbags, but never actually dropped the thing. Once the install was done, and the interior was squared away with the panels - i noted that the front most mount bolts leave double Frankenstein bolt indents into the head-liner. The front bolts as supplied, could likely have been the next standard measurement shorter in length.

    Once the drilling was done, the mostly assembled rack was put onto the roof, and bolted in place. Everything fit up right the first time, as the measurements indicated.

    The last two rivet-nuts through the roof at the very rear, was critical in spacing. Both the airbag, and the structural box member in there, would be a serious fitment issue for the last bolts, if it was off by more than 1/4". I know i had to finesse the airbag out of the way while inserting the rivet-nuts, on the drivers side particularly. I knew about the wiring runs through the a-pillar .. i just went slow with the drill, letting the bit do the cutting with no downward pressure. I found wiring in interference with the rivet-nuts - but again, gently routing them out of the way through gentle persuasion with a screwdriver tip, got the job done, without getting too fussy with the head-liner..

    One of the actual uses of my Prinsu rack, is that i have a 180deg fish-eye rear-view camera mounted on the trailing edge of the last cross-bar, handy for surveillance of congested traffic situations. I ran the wiring for it up the A-Pillar, through the roof liner (again, actually avoiding removing it, again!) and then popped an additional 3/8" hole into the roof seam for the wiring immediately behind the last rivet-nut on the drivers-side. Wiring runs under the OEM rubber gasket and pops out to be zip-tied to the rack and routed correctly. Everything is amply gooped up with silicone caulk squeezed into all potential points of leakage, and then exterior reinforced with RTV, to also secure the sectioned OEM rubber gasket into the channel. No sign of seepage into the interior thus far, so sealant appears to be effective.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2016
    GHOST SHIP[OP] and DaveEli like this.
  11. Nov 22, 2016 at 7:25 PM
    #111
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    I've got a 2011, I dropped the headliner. So much airbag and other crap, I decided not to install. No place to drill on the rear holes. Zach made me 2 new longer sides I just got. Now I can do the install. The plusnuts scare the hell out of me, I'll use rivnuts from Marsten. How far from the front windshield is your rack?
     
  12. Nov 22, 2016 at 7:36 PM
    #112
    HackD

    HackD Marching to the Beat of a Different Drum

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    Gone over the Top for a 5-lug..
    I settle on that in a rather odd, but logical way - the rounded nose of the side plates measure to be prefectly perpendicular with the gasket/glass seam of the windshield. I used a protractor kit's 90 degree plastic ruler to make sure that it measured 90 degrees, perpendicular to the gasket/glass seam break.2015%2B-%2B1_ade53cc14706fdc0c551587e3bf3395f16d16392.jpg
     
  13. Nov 22, 2016 at 7:40 PM
    #113
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    I'll try that. I had trouble settling on a spot.
    Any wind noise?
     
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  14. Nov 22, 2016 at 7:49 PM
    #114
    dustin19d

    dustin19d Well-Known Member

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    Headliner comes out in 10 minutes...Sometimes you just gotta go for it
     
  15. Nov 22, 2016 at 7:55 PM
    #115
    HackD

    HackD Marching to the Beat of a Different Drum

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    Hamilton, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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    2010 Base 4x2, 2.7L, 5 speed manual 5-lug Slug
    Gone over the Top for a 5-lug..
    Initially, yes. There was a distinctive slip-stream rush/whistling coming primarily from the passenger side. Dyna-matting the truck roof would definitely be worth it, i think, after the roof-rack.

    I settled for an experimental fix, and then a mechanical fix. The first involved use of a pool-noodle cut down to fit on the trailing edge of the front fairing, so that it mostly sealed that space for windstream to travel under the rack through that space. It settled the noise down some, but the right hand side was still rushing and whistling.

    End fix was to drop that front fairing to within close proximity to the roof itself, and to affix 'winglets' into those stylized end cut-outs at either end of the spoiler bar. Painted the winglets black, and the McGyver fix also double-dutied to cover over the laser-cut Prinsu-Logo from behind.. i left that in the natural stainless steel to highlight the Prinsu cut-out, while disabling it's potentially annoying kazoo-like capabilities.

    The overall sound level is reduced about 80% of that i started out with, on first install. It's there, but turning up the radio a bit, very tolerable.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Nov 22, 2016 at 8:01 PM
    #116
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    Do you have the Noise Reducing Edge Trim mounted on the bottom of the air dam?
     
  17. Nov 22, 2016 at 8:02 PM
    #117
    HackD

    HackD Marching to the Beat of a Different Drum

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    Hamilton, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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    2010 Base 4x2, 2.7L, 5 speed manual 5-lug Slug
    Gone over the Top for a 5-lug..
    Yeah .. i know it's easier than it looks - I think it was popping a few fuses, that initially intimidated me - i didn't detach the battery first, and spiked the headliner light fuses, when i did some earlier headliner work to run wiring at one point. It became a task that i subconsciously avoided from then on.
     
  18. Nov 22, 2016 at 8:03 PM
    #118
    HackD

    HackD Marching to the Beat of a Different Drum

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    Gone over the Top for a 5-lug..
    Negative
     
  19. Nov 22, 2016 at 8:04 PM
    #119
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    David
    Virginia Beach
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tacoma Sport 4X4
    Icon Extended Travel Coilovers, King 700lb springs, All-Pro Expo leaf springs, All-pro U-Bolt flip kit, Icon 2.0 Series custom length rear shocks, Wheelers Superbump Bumpstops, All-Pro extended rear brake lines, Warn 86255 VR10000 10,000 lb winch, Warn 90287 wireless remote, Redline Hood Struts, AVS Bugflector II, Pelfreybilt front bumper with Rigid 92031 SR- Series White 20" Spot/Flood lightbar, Brute Force rear bumper with short swingarm, Famous Fabrication Rock Sliders, Pelfreybilt Skid Plates, Rigid 50231 D2 Driving Lights, Rigid 20221 Dually Spotlights, Rigid 98000 SR-M backup lights, ARB CKMTA12 "12V"on-board twin high performance air compressor, Dick Cepek DC-2 17x9" wheels, 285/70R17 Goodyear MTRs with Kevlar tires, Wet Okole seat covers,Airflow snorkle, ARE CX HD cap, Front Runner Slimline II cap rack, TRD cat back exhaust, AVS in channel window vents, Toyota door sill protectors, Pop & Lock tailgate lock, Husky Rear floorliners, WeatherTech Front Floorliners, DeeZee bed mat, Window tint, TRD drop in air filter, Plasmaglow led bed lights, Hi-Lift jack mounted on bed rail, IMMRYO Rear View Mirror Relocate, ARB 63 Quart fridge freezer, Arb ARB209 Snatch Block, ARB ARB730US 3" x 10' Tree saver, ARB ARB705US 2-3/8" x 30' recovery strap, Bubba Rope 7/8" x 30' original rope 28600 lbs, Bubba Rope Gator Jaw soft shackle 7/16.
    That's supposed to help a lot.
     
  20. Nov 22, 2016 at 10:31 PM
    #120
    Larmo63

    Larmo63 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2016
    Member:
    #201559
    Messages:
    438
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2019 Tacoma Access Cab TRD Sport
    Wait time from PrinSu?
     
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