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problem installing lifted struts

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by B ryan, Nov 5, 2011.

  1. Nov 5, 2011 at 11:51 PM
    #1
    B ryan

    B ryan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    K&N intake, Flow series exhaust, bfg all-terrains, Line-X bed liner, 2.5'' leveling kit, diff drop(just to be safe), hard wired inverter, Delta tool box, high lift mounted in bed, Jerry can mount for in the bed, spidertrax wheel spacers, all-pro rear bumper, gray wire mod
    So I got a spacer kit for the top of the strut tower. I know that not many of you are fans but it's what I can afford for now. So the plan was to replace all the shocks at the same time. so when I went to install the strut back in I couldn't get it to seat. I couldn't lower the uca enough to get the 2.5" spacer in. (I was trying to do this with out taking the upper ball joint conection off, I couldn't get it to come appart.) Any way I had to cut bait and just install the strut without the spacer. any advise, on how to get it to fit easier? do I need to get a ball joint seperator and that will fix my problem of not having enough freeplay to work with? I did read at one point someone used needle nose pliers but I couldn't get that to work. I'm thinking to just take it in to have a shop finish the job.:confused:
     
  2. Nov 6, 2011 at 8:53 AM
    #2
    jr114

    jr114 Well-Known Member

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    Icon Ext travel CO, Icon tubular uniball UCAs, Maxtrac Spindles, Icon RR rear w 2"aal.
    i just took a hammer and gently tapped the top of the spindle to release the ball joint. your going to need to remove the uca from the spindle at the very least to fit the new strut in place
     
  3. Nov 6, 2011 at 9:01 AM
    #3
    11B4X4

    11B4X4 Well-Known Member

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    I may be way off here, But i beleive you are having the same problem i had as well. I had to take off the sway bar and unhook the caliper from the rotor to get enough room to slip everything into place. Still needed a rubber malet to tap everything in. If you try this make sure u hang the caliper up by wire so you don't damge your breakline.
     
  4. Nov 6, 2011 at 1:00 PM
    #4
    Brianstemm

    Brianstemm GM Convert

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    5100s/ eibach @ .85 1/2" spacer driverside 1/4" spacer passenger side. LR UCAs. 5100s on rear w/ 1.5 AAL and AirLift bags. Satoshi grill w/ Hella 500s. Tailgate theft mod. Rear cam all time.
    I installed my lift yesterday and used the youtube video method. Basically it involves taking the two bolts out from the LCA knuckle and loosening the cam bolts at the other end of the LCA. All went very easy until the time came to install the much longer strut assembly. What I did then was put a rachet strap over the strut bracket and under the LCA. Making sure to move the brake lines out of the way, I slowly tightened the strap and it went together very easily afterwards. Love the new lift! Good luck hope this helps.
     
  5. Nov 6, 2011 at 1:19 PM
    #5
    JDMcQ

    JDMcQ Well-Known Member

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    Disconnect the anti-swaybar and get a prybar to push down on the lower control arm, you may need an extra set of hands.
     
  6. Nov 6, 2011 at 1:22 PM
    #6
    08bluetacoma

    08bluetacoma Well-Known Member

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    when i did mine i bolted the top of the strut in first got a heavy friend to stand on the lower control arm and it popped right in.
     
  7. Nov 6, 2011 at 7:55 PM
    #7
    B ryan

    B ryan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    K&N intake, Flow series exhaust, bfg all-terrains, Line-X bed liner, 2.5'' leveling kit, diff drop(just to be safe), hard wired inverter, Delta tool box, high lift mounted in bed, Jerry can mount for in the bed, spidertrax wheel spacers, all-pro rear bumper, gray wire mod
    Well i ended up getting a ball joint separator and that got the upper ball joint out and I was able to get the new spaced strut in but then when I went to reassemble, the upper ball joint bolt got stripped.:( So then had to go buy a new one and try to replace it. no matter how hard my father-in-law and I tried though we could not get the upper ball joint to separate from the arm. So i bandaged it and took it to a local shop. I hate not being able to do something that in theory seems so easy. but I'll let it become their problem now. Thanks for the advise though to all of you. I did use it to get the strut in place. (I feel a little less manly after all that :rolleyes:)
     
  8. Nov 6, 2011 at 9:26 PM
    #8
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    You'll want aftermarket UCA's anyways after your lift. :D You'll see what I mean when you drive it. You should just drop coin and buy em, you will eventually :)
     
  9. Nov 6, 2011 at 11:59 PM
    #9
    B ryan

    B ryan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    K&N intake, Flow series exhaust, bfg all-terrains, Line-X bed liner, 2.5'' leveling kit, diff drop(just to be safe), hard wired inverter, Delta tool box, high lift mounted in bed, Jerry can mount for in the bed, spidertrax wheel spacers, all-pro rear bumper, gray wire mod
    what exactly would the difference be? I'm not familiar with what an after market uca would benefit. is it longer, aiding in more travel for the suspension?
     
  10. Nov 7, 2011 at 4:25 AM
    #10
    JDMcQ

    JDMcQ Well-Known Member

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    You won't need new UCA's. The second gens have alignment issues after lifts. Your 2000 should be fine.
     
  11. Nov 7, 2011 at 4:54 AM
    #11
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Staff Member

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    The just add to the caster angle. Like John said, you won't need them.
     
  12. Nov 7, 2011 at 8:38 AM
    #12
    JDMcQ

    JDMcQ Well-Known Member

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    What he said. ^^^


    Not sent from an iPhone.
     
  13. Nov 7, 2011 at 10:26 AM
    #13
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    oh shit, didn't realize he was a first gen.... my bad... haha
     
  14. Nov 8, 2011 at 6:25 PM
    #14
    B ryan

    B ryan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    K&N intake, Flow series exhaust, bfg all-terrains, Line-X bed liner, 2.5'' leveling kit, diff drop(just to be safe), hard wired inverter, Delta tool box, high lift mounted in bed, Jerry can mount for in the bed, spidertrax wheel spacers, all-pro rear bumper, gray wire mod
    well took it to local shop that has good reviews. cost me $260 for just the labor of putting in one new replacement strut and and a ball joint. The worst part is as soon as I turned the car on the ABS light came on and stayed on. I went back in and they said " yea we noticed that but we made sure all our conections were good" I told them that it wasn't on when I took it in and now, after they worked on it, it's on. They basically said they would run a diagnostic but couldn't tonight cause they're closing. They also said I would have to pay for it. I'm pissed!
     
  15. Nov 8, 2011 at 7:01 PM
    #15
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Staff Member

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    They over stretched the wire and broke it internally. It is their fault and they're responsible for fixing it at no cost.
     
  16. Nov 12, 2011 at 6:04 PM
    #16
    B ryan

    B ryan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    K&N intake, Flow series exhaust, bfg all-terrains, Line-X bed liner, 2.5'' leveling kit, diff drop(just to be safe), hard wired inverter, Delta tool box, high lift mounted in bed, Jerry can mount for in the bed, spidertrax wheel spacers, all-pro rear bumper, gray wire mod
    ^^^^nailed it, they over stretched the wire and broke it. They were trying to screw me over and make me pay for it. I gave them hell and they backed down and fixed it at their expense. Not many words were said when I went and picked up my truck. Not going back there for any more work. Thanks for the help!
     
  17. Nov 12, 2011 at 6:06 PM
    #17
    KPT

    KPT sees what you did there.

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    Shocks....not struts. Tacomas do not have struts.
     
  18. Nov 12, 2011 at 7:12 PM
    #18
    B ryan

    B ryan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    '00 3.4 sr5 4wd
    K&N intake, Flow series exhaust, bfg all-terrains, Line-X bed liner, 2.5'' leveling kit, diff drop(just to be safe), hard wired inverter, Delta tool box, high lift mounted in bed, Jerry can mount for in the bed, spidertrax wheel spacers, all-pro rear bumper, gray wire mod
    ^^^Bumper looks awesome! No I got one new shock and spacer on and when I went to bolt the upper ball joint to the uca the bolt got stripped out. So I bought a new one and got the ball joint fork but couldn't get the the thing out so I didn't have a lot of options. But yea, don't remind me how much I spent for what I got. But since I replaced all the shocks at the same time the ride is actually better now.
     
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