Problems with 2021 4Runner TRD Pro wheels install

Installed mine this past Friday. Can confirm there is a small gap show in photo. 2021 trd pro 4runner wheels.

They do look good though!

 

If they aren’t fully seated it’s a pretty big safety issue. Definitely machine the wheel, axle, or run a 2mm spacer.

If I was in this situation, I would likely run a spacer or machine the wheel. Since the hub protrusion is too tall, running a thin spacer will still allow the wheel to be fully hubcentric.

Also, it’s not really a drum/disc thing, just a different hub thing.

(To answer earlier questions, the 4Runner switched to rear discs in 2003).

Jeff

 

Thats what I would of done also,good job.

 

I like this solution, is it the same outcome vs milling all 4 wheels?

I have to do this asap because i have to re-tighten all 6 lug nuts of both rears about half a turn every couple hundred miles and its giving me anxiety

I follow your YouTube vids, perhaps you could do a tutorial? That would help a lot for all future generations of owners of these wheels.

For the meantime can you put arrows and/or texts showing what exactly you change on this photo?

also what tools and method of chamfering did you use?

I greatly appreciate it.

 

Thanks!

 

Milling the wheels works too but for me, that's more of a hassle: bringing my wheels to a machine shop and the added cost.

Sorry I didn't make a video but here are the steps:

I used a $15 Harbor Freight grinder with a grinding disc.
- tape/protect the studs, do not touch them with the grinder
- use the grinder and slowly grind down the hub at a slight angle to add a chamfer
- the grinding disc fits perfectly in the center of the hub so you can also place it there and grind the complete hub down at the same time
- only 1mm or so of material needs to removed
- pro tip, work on half the hub, spin the hub and work on the other half (so your not working from the floor)
- test fit the wheels so they fit flush with the hub, it will be easy to tell when it does

Whole process only takes a few minutes... just be careful to not grind the studs. Good luck.

 

have 1 person rotate the hub while another holds the grinder (or mount the grinder somehow) and you've basically created your own lathe. DO NOT put the truck in gear and drive the back wheels while lifted

 

Creative...lol... just don't grind the studs and you'll be good...

 

Yeah, if it were me, I'd slip a small section of PVC pipe over each stud to ensure they're well protected.

 

I disagree. Poor man's lathe. Sorta...

 

I know you're being facetious, but the last thing I want to hear is someone blowing up their diff or worse, injuring/killing themselves. I never trust who's reading my posts and their gullibility.

 

Also, calling this a "Drill Master" doesn't exactly instill confidence in the product...



Was "Grind Master" alread TM'ed by a stripper?

 

Seriously though, yeah, don't be stupid.

 

Please wear safety glasses and gloves while grinding!

 

I appreciate the instructions, im gonna do it this weekend, I have to buy a grinder and a floor jack.
what kind of floor jacks are you guys using?
do you lift both rear wheels with one jack assuming the jack can handle the load or do you lift one wheel at a time?

 

I normally lift the rear end and have the jack as a backup under the rear diff and jack stands either supporting the rear end and/or rear frame. Never work with the truck fully supported only on the jack, the jack stands should be holding the truck. You can do one side at a time provided you have a jack stand holding that corner.

 

I ended up having the same issue and thanks to this thread was able to fix it.

I've had my 2021 4Runner Pro rims on my 2019 Tacoma for 4 months. I had the tire shop do the mounting for me, they didn't mention any issues with fitment and just torqued them down. Since that point I've had a subtle vibration from the rear when braking, seemed like the brake pads would engage more on one part of the drum and less on another (pulsing matching tire speed as I slowed). Sure enough, I was getting interference between the rear axle hub and the inner wheel rim and torquing the wheel down without it being a flat surface was leading to the rear brake drum being pulled slightly out of round, causing the brake pulsing.

When I took the rear wheels off, they were STUCK on there very solidly. I had to kick the tire as hard as I could to get them to dislodge. I measured the amount of interference and it's very small, just the outer rim corner of the hub is hitting the angled chamfer on the inside of the wheel. It didn't really need to be any shallower, just have a 45 degree bevel on it like shown in the prior post.

It was actually a very easy project to do. I jacked up the rear end of the truck at the differential and put a couple jack stands under both sides to get the full rear axle off the ground, putting some tire chocks under the front wheels. When the whole rear axle is in the air (with the parking brake off) the rear tires will spin freely, but locked to each other through the differential. Spinning the passenger tire by hand will cause the drivers side tire to spin the opposing direction. I used an angle grinder to take the edge off the hub, sitting in a chair and holding the grinder in a stationary position while my wife slowly spun the other tire by hand. Just have to go slow and be careful not to nick the studs with the grinder. Took about 5 minutes per side of grinding, and comes out looking perfectly machined. The whole project takes about 45 minutes and was way easier than I expected it to be.

After taking that edge off the hub the wheel fits great. I checked by torquing them down then removing again, they come off freely with no effort. It also eliminated that brake pulsing that I was experiencing. I would recommend that anyone considering these rims for their Tacoma be prepared to do the modification to the hub. Probably the easiest way to check for interference is to see if the wheels get stuck when you torque them down and then try to take them off.

Thanks again for the tip!

 

Got these wheels “special ordered” through my Toyota dealership so apparently that means no returns. Got my leveling kit installed today and was pretty excited about these wheels. I did a test fit this afternoon and the front didn’t fit correctly and the rear wasn’t even close. Pretty disappointed. Lot of money for wheels that don’t fit properly. I saw the back looked easy to fix with a grinder but I’m not sure what to do about the front. Would 1/2 wheel spacers fix this issue or would I be better off taking the wheels to a machine shop and hoping they don’t screw them up? Also would machining wheels a few mm change the offset? Thanks

 

Or just put the lugs back on.

 

If you pop the dust caps off the front wheel hub, does that solve the fitment issue? Mine seemed to fit fine over the dust caps in the front of my Tacoma, but I've heard of some people who needed to remove the front hub dust caps to get the wheel to fit.