Project Basketcase: Another ReSAS story

Got some work done over the past 2 weekends. Decided the front clip was just in the way and to beat up to save. Should have taken it off sooner. Thanks to @EddyRRT for cutting my frame plates to and helping build a trans crossmember to hold the crawlbox. Still have a LOOONG way to go.

Ran out of shielding gas before I could finish welding out my frame plates. That will happen next weekend hopefully.

 

Looking good Cap.

 

So We made a bit of a U turn but it's gonna make for a better finished product. I've made two decisions.

First the 4.0. 6 speed and crawlbox aren't staying. I'll swap the crawl box into my DD, Black-N-Tan and probably wheel it for the 2017 season. Basketcase is gonna be down longer than I originally intended and that's okay. I'll be replacing it with an LSx v8, probably an LQ4 6.0 and 4L80e transmission. Not sure what tcase I'll use but it'll be some form of Chevy 1ton part. I'd like to do an NP205 with a black box planitary doubler at some point, but we'll see. I really don't want to get this thing all put back together than with it had more power. Better to do that now.

Second, the front frame rails I've almost finished repairing are going in the trash. I can produce a better final product by cutting them off and replacing them with fishplate 2x4 3/16 box so thats whats gonna happen. I'll buy myself more tire clearance, panhard clearance, exhaust/link, driveshaft clearance, and not have a shitty rotten frame under some plate steel. That process began today

 

Sounds like Craig's idea of a rock crawler... Eddie knows who im talking about...

 

So in an effort to get rid of this nasty ass frame, here's what I've done. I build a set of stands that hold the body 5" abouve the frame rails. The stands are butted up to the frame and cab mounts. I ran a piece of 1x1.5 angle iron along the top edge of the cab section of the frame. THis will give me a reference point for where the top of the frame is (currecntly 36.5" off the ground. The stands are welded together at the base (passenger to driver as well so they can't move). I'll pull a bunch of measurements before I start cutting so I can verify everything when it goes back together.

I also built a stand out of scrap with adjustable arms to hold the core support mounts that I hacked uff the original frame. This sets the frame width at the front of the frame horns.

Plan, as of now is to set the front frame sections we've already made to the appropriat height. Cut the cab section of frame out behind between the rear cab mounts and drop it out of the way. Using the "jig" I've constructed we'll replace that section of frame with more 2x4 box. Once its in place I'll weld in supports for it to the stands and can start working on replacing the rear of the frame


Not the ideal solution but with some careful measuring and a little luck I think it'll work.

 

The good news is since this is a SAS truck as long as the axles are mounted straight I can be a little off and it sould be fine. If this was an IFS truck that would be a diffent story. I rather have a frame thats a little wonky or cab thats mounted 1/8 inch off than be welding to this nasty ass frame thats so rusty my torch doesn't want to cut it.

 

This is one of the more entertaining threads on this site. Keep the pictures coming!

How much of the factory Tacoma will be left when you are done? The cab?

 

Yeah, thats pretty much it. Hood too. List gets really short after that

 

Your crazy?!

But I love it!!!
Keep keep kickin ass sir

 

There a fine line between genius, crazy and stupid. I'm pretty sure I'm dancing on that line.

 

Why keep the bed section (or any) of the original frame at this point?

 

I'm not. It'll get replaced too. But its going to be easier to do this in sections for now...I think. By leaving that section of frame in place for the time being it will be easier to get everything else lined up. The entire frame is going to be 2x4 box soon

 

Having mad scientist thoughts concerning this frame (re)construction and the current condition of the frame on my 81.... Looks good @SGTCap

 

Very cool.

At first thought it seems like building a pair of rails and moving everything over would be easier and stronger. But the logistics of that move are really going to suck, as would the difficulty in getting all the dimensions right the first time.

How will you strengthen the 'joints' where the frame sections come together to avoid weak spots at the welds? That seems like the big downside to your approach.

FWIW, we build Aircraft carriers and submarines in sections like you're doing, so it can certainly work. And I'm with @Carrionman , thinking about a frame replacement on my truck at some point.

 

Joint strength wont be hard. Step 1: bevel both edges and get good multipass weld in there. 2-bridge the joint on all 4 corners with 1x1.5 3/16 angle I have laying around. 3 fishplate past the joint(Faces of the rail between the angle iron) by 8-10 inches in either direction with 1/8" plate.

Really I probably need on the fishplate or the angle, but I'll likely do both.

This should be infinitely stronger than the factory frame. If you saw the way our frames are built you'd laugh. They really are junk. I know after seeing how it's made I would be nervous attaching links to it and i'm surprised more people aren't having problems with buckling where the upper link mounts.

I need to call Barnes come to think of it. I'm going to upgrade all my hardware to 3/4 before I do the links

 

That should work I've never used fishplate, will have to do some research.

Empirically the stock frames must strong enough, although I agree they are awfully flimsy.

 

Not sure i have a choice in the matter @Arcticelf, the frame is shot from the cab back on the passengers side and 2 feet further on the drivers side. If i had the space to work on it i would consider trying to build a frame but for now i'm just trolling craigslist looking for a blown up 79-83 long bed pickup i can buy and part out for the frame.

 

You have a bigger problem than me. I just want something stronger. Of course a few more years in thr North East and I'll have the same problem.

And if I'm ever going SAS it will need to be alot stronger. That build will feature a V8 with a blower....

 

Got a little work done this weekend. We cut the cab setion of frame out and replaced it with more 2x4 3/16" box. Corners are guseted with 1/4" plate, bent to fit on the brake press and burned in with multiple passes. The bed section of frame will be the last section to be replaced. I'm not gonna lie and say its all perfectly square and straight. IT wasn't when I started. But its pretty damn good. Fortunatly it's a SAS truck. I could build the frame crooked as hell. As long as the axles are straight and square, should be good to go.

Yesterday I got the frame slugged. What a pain in the ass drilling through 5/16 was. I drilled out the box to take a 1/2 grade 8 bolt and slugged the frame with .510 ID tubes. Getting that all lined up was a bitch. But it's done and the links should go together pretty quickly when we get that far.

Next task is getting the crossmembers under the cab rebuilt, the cab down and body mounts made. Then we'll finish the frame replacement, and hang the Chevy 63s