Project Basketcase: Another ReSAS story

So after reading that I had to go do a little test. Very quick cause I wasn't wearing any PPE or are the tires or body off the truck. Using my little compressor thats rated at 6CFM and the HF aluminum oxide this is what I got out of a couple second blast:
I know my compressor is too small but my buddies is bigger, rated at about 11CFM, but its 300 FT away. So heres my redneck plan:

I bought 300ft of hose. I'll run that line from his compressor to a manifold where I will also hook up my compressor. From that I'll run a line to the blaster.

I know thats not ideal and it'll take a while but that's what I can do. I'm not really supposed to be blasting and painting in this unit so backing up a diesel compressor is kinda out. As it is I'll be doing this job in the middle of the night after everyone is gone.

I'll pick up more media and look for the crushed glass. Think regular old Rustoleum will work for the blasted surface?

Manifold, just needs 2 plugs:


my little compressor

 

Looks okay.

Rustolium probably good, you can also get a weldable primer, that will prevent surface rust until you get ready to paint.

 

Ya it should work it'll just take some time....I aluminium oxide is great just expensive but it's super hard and less dusty than glass.. it's kind of a trade off. The blast looks good you want more white metal than brown but some shadows here and there won't hurt anything. Ya ristoleum will be fine... I'm big on epoxy coatings but they're again expensive and suck balls to take off later and since you have lots of fab work ahead I wouldn't recommend that route. If your blast pot has a pressure regulator on it you can vary the pressure for sensitive areas but since you're running low cfm I down forsee too much trouble just remember to be mindful of the ricochet can end up blasting other thins you don't want blasted that way.

 

If you start blowing holes in the frame spend some extra time on that section as well cause the media will eat up the rusty steel. Also stay away from organic based media such as walnut shells they leave a super greasy residue on everything and if you don't get it all out it'll start to smell as the organic material breaks down

 

Thanks for the help.

Looks like the HF media is right at a $1/lb which seems to be on par with the other stuff I've found shopping online. I assume there is no way to vacuum it up to be reused. I'll pick up a couple more boxes.

You mentioned the soda blast function earlier, I was going to address that. The prior owner painted the truck obviously. There are two problems with that.

1.) I don't like the black and white
2.) If he paints like he did everything else than paint is destined to fall off.

Therefore I plan to blast the truck and repaint it, probably myself. I'm thinking single stage satin Olive Drab and black with the same paint scheme as my truck. Blacked out center of the roof and hood.

I found modern reproductions of the old military paint that I've been eyeing. They apparently make it for guys that restore surplus vehicles.

http://www.armyjeepparts.com/c-211-gci-paint.aspx

The paint is cheap and being a single stage satin it should be easy to touch up if I screw something up and need to replace a fender or something

Thats my thought

 

I was thinking the same thing

 

Subd!
Good luck op!

 

What are the plans for the other truck when you get this one set up?

 

Right now my plan is to have two trucks. I've debated selling it when this is done but I don't know. I've had it since 2006 and I love the damn thing. Not sure I could let it go. We'll see how this plays out. Right now the plan is to keep it as my daily driver and Basketcase will be the toy.

All things are subject to change

 

Makes sense just be sure not to spend too much time on one spot when doing body panels as they'll warp, cause they're tin. Also you'll wany finer grits to clean the metal vs putting too much profile you'll see from the frame that even after the primer there will be a profile on the metal which takes a few Coats to lessen. Soda isnt super abrasive so it shouldn't be an issue just keep it in the back of your mind.

 

Will do. Thank you sir. If all goes well, I'll get the cab and bed out of the way this weekend and get at least SOME of the blasting done.

@ahspurlock I'm gonna need your assistance if you're available Sir

 

Just figured out that these tires are the old stickie compound TSL SX2 they not longer make. So that issue might have to be addressed. I really wanted to stick with 42s but not if they're gonna wear out quickly. Might drop down to the 40" Procomps which are much cheaper and have a 40k tread life warrenty

 

i'll be there after 2 on sat when i get off work

 

Re-using media is a risky game. If you're just getting dust off the truck, you'll be fine. Most blasting cabinets recycle the media. But if you suck a larger chunk of crap into the blaster you'll clog up the nozzle.

 

Ya but seeing is he's in a clean storage unit, shouldn't be a problem can always sift it first, aluminum oxide isn't cheap and it can be recycled, I do it all the time at work but I also buy media by the ton....

 

Subbed. Restoration projects are the best builds, one mans trash/anothers treasure sorta thing. Loads to be learned along the way as well. Good luck Cap,

 

Where does one get a sifter of the appropriate size? I agree he should be okay, but clogged nozzle's suck.

 

Nope. I'm spending a lot on this storage unit so I need to work on this thing pretty steadily until she's road worthy again. So until it's out of storage, no wheeling except our Kentucky trip and I'm working a double every Thursday and a 7hr shift every Sunday. That'll give me about 12hrs of OT a week to pay for this mess and 2 days to work on it a week.

 

I'll get another 100lbs. With 20% off coupons from HF that should be a little under $100. I'll pick up a cheap HVLP paint gun too and a couple quarts of rustoleum to hit the frame with after I blast it. Spray paint is expensive, so I'll get a cheap gun and a couple quarts of paint and acetone