Project: DBL BLK ◇ by ToyRyd

Yeah i'll be up at the Koch Toyota dealership event again this year. Nice little drive tht i know some of the PA NJ guys go to.
Definitely looking to run Rausch a few times this year, as well as Takeover (July 30-Aug1) i think...

 

I’ll have to try and make that one again

 

Why you shouldn't drive 2hrs with a slight axle leaks... live and learn. Had this setup for almost 8 years, not bad.





You can see the pinion got hot, became brittle and started to fall apart. (Loud noise on deceleration, on load became quiet) if you read into diffs you"ll know why.

So with the Nitros being no good, time to rebuild for less than cost to ship out, shop rebuild, and ship back.


1st pull diff out and apart. (Super easy with a FF rear)




Further inspect damage to pinion. Note no damage shown on the ring gear.


Pull carrier from 3rd housing, remove side adjusters, caps, etc.



Then pull the ring gear from carrier


Purchase new R&P. G2 gears are on same par as Nitro, upgraded 29spline pinion 8620 tool steel and twice lapped, and shot penned for better surface contact. Old vs New.




Press off old bearing and press on new bearings. Parts from a master install kit. New pinion shimmed with inner pinion bearing, solid collar and shims.





Outer pinion bearing oil retainer, orginally missing from purchased setup. Solid collars interfere with this but crush sleeves do not. Now having my pinion up much farther than factory, I chose to add it back with slight modification to clear the solid collar.




1st test pattern with everything back together.
Not bad, but looking for a more aggressive pattern that will handle the abuse of 37s, lockers, and crawlbox.


After a few adjustments on the shim stack between the pinion and inner pinion bearing. Much better pinion to ring placement and the pattern favors the toe on the drive side of the ring gear and similar on the coast. Winning combo.

Drive:


Coast:


Pinion:


Inner race pressed in with the modified oil retainer.


Progress for now, new flange, nut, and pinion seal coming tonight for install.

 

Continued

Pinion bearings slathered with engine assembly lube, oil slinger placed in and then finally some Toyota FIPG around the flange splines, pinion splines, TG 29spl pinion seal and some red loctite for the pinion nut. 8years deserves a new chromo flange, cause why not. Drilled for all the toyota patterns




Amazon find to hold the pinion flange while tightening the nut down. Fits the pattern perfect with 1/2" drive for a breaker bar support.


Ding the nut.





Final check on Pinion preload:

17in lb before the seal (Good spec for all new parts)
20in lb after the seal
=3in lb seal drag.

 

Damn how much of a leak did you have??

 

Leaking out both ends of the full float rear. "Slight" might of been the understatement. But wouldnt leave puddles, but rather fling marks all over the inner tires.

 

Crazy!!

Now you have me worried about my seeping pinion seal haha!!

 

Proceeds to check oil level now that I know I'm leaking at the perch...

 

Didn't you fix that?

 

I threw some weld at it, but it didn't stop lol.

 

Cut perches, fill with weld, sleeve with wider tubing, and get new wider perches that support the load better!

Or JB weld

 

Gotcha, Brett tried that too.

Basically what I did. So far so good.

 

Yep, this exact thing. Looks good Ryan!

 

My plan is to let it ride till I figure out what beefier rear end I wanted to go with. Wanted to find a FF FJ80 rear and don't really want to invest time in fixing a housing I want to ditch eventually. Leak is so slow it doesn't even drip haha. I am a complete noob to what housings/options might be out there for my truck.

 

Not too many videos, but went with @cynicalrider for Northeast Toyota Crawlers takeover at Rausch Creek.

Finally was able to use the crawlbox, just like many have said, worth the money and total game changer. Control of direction and wheel speed really shines on the rocks. I also had swapped out a front aussie autolocker to a Yukon zip locker selectable which helped out a ton too.

 

Nothing like wanting to do one mod, and truck decides it needs something somewhere else.

Was working on where to put an aux interior fuse panel and stumbled upon wet carpet and this .



Glad I caught it now while its still surface vs going to step in and foot goes right through the floor.






Time to wire wheel and get most of the surface rust and the factory insulation that had come up. Then coat with chassis saver, which I happen to have after just doing the whole frame and bunper.






Also found that Toyota stamped both sides with same holes for the rear cup holders. Found a guy selling another online. Win. So grabbed my metric (M8 - same as factory) nutserts that fit the hole perfectly.

Pulled the whole console, havnt since the crawlbox install so it was nice to see again and have access to seam seal the shifters and access panel.




Pulled the back panel too, 1st time its ever been apart. Glad to see no issues.





Now the main reason I was attacking the area, adding the fuse block and Ground bus for interior power. Mainly to remove all the add a fuses and to have a few spare future hooks ups. Thinking this will be a decent spot with easy access.

Also bonus, found factory wiring capped off for power seats. Thinking of ideas to turn this into maybe heated seats or lumbar support .



Then while I had the console out, might as well upgrade it a bit for charging devices. (GMRS, and some handheld lights, etc.)






And finally, ordered some Vinyl replacement flooring I had watched @cynicalrider install. Ordered from RockAuto, saved a good amount of $$$ off shipping through them. Ended up costing less than carpet.
Chose gray to semi match the rest of the interior and previous carpet.

Starting to replace and learn how moldable the stuff is with heat. Just waiting on a air powered staple gun as my hand one didnt have enough umph to get through the vinyl and board.

 

Those clamps are a great idea! Your cubbies are already coming out better looking than mine I can’t remember if I asked before or not but any interest in doing sound deadening while you are in there? Or just want to get done with this rabbit hole?

 

Haha thanks, stuff sucks as folding when cold, but once some heat is applied, folds over nicely.
As far as sound deadening, im keep a small piece for the center console that never got wet and hopefully avoid the floating you were talking about.

Vinyl came with some more of that jute that i'll run again but this time, I've replaced the floor drain plugs and sealed them vs the slit and stuff wires method that had the old ones fall apart. Ill keep an eye out on it, if moisture again, i'll be fine running without.

 

I wouldn’t run the jute (will retain moisture), that’s why my console had issues, I ran no padding but put closed cell foam matting on my floor in helps of deadening. From what I read the best thing for actual deadening on the floor is mass loaded vinyl. Not cheap though. And I was more talking about on the back wall and on the cubbies, running raam mats or something similar. But I guess cruising in the summer with half doors, sound is the least of your concern with all that wind