Project: DBL BLK ◇ by ToyRyd

Alright you convinced me, was just going to run the jute and reuse a few carpet pieces that I cut to keep.
But after looking up, better to sound deadened some at least vs nothing at all. Back wall im going to leave alone, lot of holes to have to cut out if I cover it.

Did you do anything for the rear seat? I did decide to chassis saver and paint inside them. Mainly keep them full of straps and few other tools. Top of the rear seats does look very "tinny" without any insulation. So just ordered some sound mat off of Amazon, same day deliever Win!

 

Sound mat came in, 36 sqft of 80 mil. Started covering the cab, ran the truck about 30min with heat on full blast to get the cab nice and warm to help bond to the surface.

@cynicalrider Didnt intend on doing the whole cab, but stuff was easy to roll on, cut, form. 100% recommend if your thinking about it.

MAT66 ProBlack 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Vehicle Audio Sound Insulation and Dampening Material

MAT66 ProBlack 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Vehicle Audio Sound Insulation and Dampening Material







And started wiring for the new interior fuse block under the driver seat.

 

damn awesome work! Def hope it helps especially the cubby. I did feel that the cab got a little louder when I did vinyl so hopefully this will counter act that. My truck is so loud on the highway, now mostly due to engine rpms since I fixed the exhaust, so I’d love to go back and fully deaden everything. I really wished I did the wall and floor while I was there besides just the floor.

I never did the rear seats but I put the closed cell foam inside the cubbies too as a padding for the shit I keep in there. I bet you are preventing a ton of resonation with the cubbies floor and back wall now.

This is what mine ended up like:




I hope one day I’ll get bored enough to do what I think will be the ultimate setup, mass loaded vinyl floor, and butyl mat on cubbies, walls, doors, kick panels, and roof.
It’s going to take a lot of convincing to rip the floor out again though… maybe if I have to cut the floor panel for a clocked t case

 

Thanks! Was actually one of the easier installs I've done. Was thinking the rubber/whatever composite material was going to be a pain to cut around holes. A lot of the post I saw on here and elsewhere really showed doing the back wall would help and then I figured the cubbies would be good because your recommendation and that I do have a lot of metal items that are just sitting in there rattling around so the mat should help deadened at least that.

Clocking that new NWF crawlbox design would be a good excuse to get back in there and put mat down. Thanks for the tip/recommendation!

 

Still chugging away. Rerolled all the sound deadening mat to make sure it was nice and tight to the body. Used up the rest to finish covering the cubby holes, and the backing for a new set of speakers in the rear. Might as well right, factory ones sucked and sucked worse after 17 years.



Some Pioneer 5.25" to match the front Pioneers I did probably 8years ago.



Then got ahead of myself and covered them yesterday, but cut out the old drain plug holes in the floorboard. Mine had crumbled this allowing water in, so ordered a new set, added sealant, then recovered the holes for extra measure.



Attention now going to finishing and powering up the fuse block along with all the accessories. 4ports are hot on ignition and 2 hot all the time on battery.

Did some more research on the powered seat plug thats unused, seems to be rated 10-15amps. Now its got me wanting todo heated seat or lumbar support. Looking into that....

 

Or stick a power seat in there! That's what I'm using to power my Camry seat.

 

Also been looking at that too! These seats have seen better days, just years of wear and tear on the foam.

 

Almost finished, wiring 95% completed and labeled.
Spent majority the day fitting the vinyl floor in. What a pia to say the least. Being cold doesnt help, but using the trucks heat and heat gun, its now finally taking shape.

 

Dude it's coming out great! Love how many people I am seeing in the "what did you do today" thread doing sound proofing and vinyl. I give you a lot of credit fighting with that shit in the cold. It was a bear for me when I was doing it outside in 95º heat. It's definitely making me want to jump back in and properly sound proof mine like I should have done originally. I even have a spare driver side wall I want to put in because I moved my external CB speaker twice and still am not happy with it's final location and want to move it back some more. I hate the 3 holes from the original fuck up everytime I look at it.

 

Thanks, now nearing the end I'm glad i did it. Vinyl was so cold, just trying to bend it in the cab initially wouldn't even fit. Cant wait for summer now, I feel the excessive heat really helps drape the vinyl to conform, and then when temp drops, it forms to the new memory fit.

Also, if you ever get small holes to fill use some Plastic Putty to fill an adhere from the backside and paint with Color Bond Paint https://www.colorbondpaint.com/products/l-v-hp-refinisher-toyota-1. Awesome stuff, picks up oem texture. My front section of my console is out of a 98 reg cab with blue/gray color. I cut it to fit, sanded, added tabs, and then painted. Helps when interior pieces are harder and harder to find.

 

Goddamn that is great to know! is Ash the default gray for us?

 

I went and ordered a couple different colors and brands from different manufacturers.
After paint and testing, I actually found and used Audi - Audi: Dark Gray (1913). Most of the Toyotas were not close enough to match.


Ones I tried: They are not cheap $$$, but once you find the match the rest is easy

Toyota:LT Gray (1725)
Toyota:Titanium (234)
Honda:Nickel (240)
Honda: M. Gray (1721)
Honda: Dark Graphite (243)
GM: Medium Dark Pewter (154)
Chrysler: Dark Mist Gray (166)
Ford:Granite (334)

 

And just about wrapped up just need to heat and contour the sill plates.



What was nice is I was able to take advantage of the excess material and ran the vinyl higher up than the factory carpeting and also behind the kick panel electronics to keep moisture and water/snow far away. Another barrier never hurts.





Easy access to the fuse panel and ground bus bar

 

Got the door sills on, more of a pain than anything else. It the details for me, and making it look factory while covering the new interior harness.





Got a few other small projects in the pipeline. Started working on side lights mounted on the toolbox, to help with wheeling at night and didnt want a roof rack to accomplish the same thing. Just waiting on the switch to get delivered.






Also, picked up a winch power cutoff switch. Plan is to fit it next to the winch clutch knob to make it easy to engage/disengage.

 

Had a month and half work trip to Nashville, so racked up some per diem and spent some money on new interior mods.

Wanted to upgrade the seats as they've worn through the years. Smittybuilt seat covers stay as they are so useful for storage behind the seats.

Before:


During:
New Coverking CR-Grade Neoprene just like wet okoles.




After:






Installed:





Black with Medium Gray matches well with the rest of the interior.

Next, I've had a dash mat for a few years to hide cables to power all the devices I had suctioned cup to the windshield. Mat was starting to wear bad, suction cups become brittle from the sun, and wanted to reposition a few items.

Looking around for a few option I stumbled on these 3rd gen expo guys who had these dash mounts for various electronics. Wanted something similar but rugged and could stand the abuse of trail and rock hits that wouldnt come loose, fairly easy to adjust/adapt new items, and look cool doing it, am I right?

Decided on RAM mount's new track design with T slots for the mounting balls. Ability to build a platform, customize, not be over the top, and could still change as needs changed.


Left to Right (Phone, Dual battery monitor, GPS, aux magnet)













Then for Power I picked up an ARB power housing meant for a fridge, but I pulled the connector out and replaced it with a 3 port usb to keep the devices charged. With most devices charging via usb, now when a device is replaced with a new charging cable its an easy swap.







Then found a good discount seller for some new factory fsm books so picked up the whole combo for future reference.



And finally, picked up 3 Harborfreight led 4ft shop lights. Highly recommend, and made a difference in my shed/shop I'm converting over to a garage.

Power consumption is 0.5amp @120v so you can have a ton of these with some nice bright light. I used 2 overhead and 1 above my workbench.

 

Couple more upgrades. I wanted the interior to have more auto light at night, 2nd gen 4runners and early tacos had a 3 button map light vs a 2 button. 3 allows the ability to automatically turn on when the door is opened just like the dome light.

Bought the parts off ebay, 3 button module, 3 button plastic, and 95 4runner w/sunroof harness. Was finally able to paint the plastic to match the 01-04 grey interior.

Thanks to @Blue92 for a quick and easy write up.














Big difference in lighting, especially already having LEDs swapped in. What's nice is the auto button can be turned on and off at will if you want less light at night to avoid that initial fatigue. Also, with the lights being wired into the dome, it follows the factory turn on, auto shutoff, and blink reminder.


Also had been searching for a while, I have a denso rewound 200amp alt I've had for awhile. Pretty good quality, got it when Bamatoy was still making kits before he got in over his head, etc. Only thing I've ever noticed was alot of the amps dont start until 1000rpm or so. Wanted that to come on sooner, already have a voltage booster to properly charge both agm yellowtop, but Idle amps can only be increased by getting the ALT to spin sooner.

Found online a 6 groove 45mm overdrive pulley (wish there was a 4 groove) that fit the Denso 17mm alt shaft. Normal Crank to ALT pulley ratio for the Tacoma is 140mm to 55mm or 2.54:1. With the new pulley that makes it 140mm to 45mm or 3.11:1 ratio.
Most online info states you want to stay around this 3:1 ratio so you do not over spin the rating on the ALT bearings at higher engine rpms.

From left to right (Factory 55mm pulley, Denso 200amp 55mm pulley, and 45mm 6 groove overdrive pulley)







Should be able to test it out in the next few days, doing some summer maintenance. (New radiator, Belts, hoses, etc.)

 

I love this rail setup, my buddy @R.A.. did something similar and I want to do the same to replace my triple failed mob armor tablet mount. What rail is that and were you able to easily run the nuts with the center section pulled out?

 

RAM Tough Track composite.

RAM Mount Top-Loading Tough-Track For Overall Length 10.75" RAP-TRACK-A9U

I placed the track right above a molded brace in the dash. Underneath it attached via steel rubber bonded washers and nylock nuts. Easy to get to and doesnt interfere with the dash going back together.

 

Posted in the HF thread, but wanted to add it here too. Not really part of the build, but a tool to help the build..

HF Bauer portaband saw, DIY weld together table, and a few electrical parts from Home Depot made a nice shop bandsaw.

 

damn that’s a cool little setup you made!

also is it bad that I just got what your double black diamond title means