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Project "put something useful behind the rear seats"

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by rob_s, Jul 2, 2010.

  1. Jul 2, 2010 at 9:46 AM
    #1
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I found the plastic bins to be completely useless, so last night I removed them. What I found was a row of two bolt-on hooks that hold the seatbacks upright, a row of three welde-on hooks below attached to a beam that which are child seat anchors, and a row of 6 tabs below that attached directly to the wall which are used to hold the plastic bins in place via the clips.

    The seatback hooks will stay (outlined in green). The child seat anchors will go (outlined in red). Can the 6 tabs go as well (outlined in yellow)?

    Best way to remove the anchors indicated in red would appear to be to drill out the 3 welds each. Any suggestion on bit size? Better way to remove them?

    Thoughts on the best way to remove the tabs outlined in yellow? Drilling would appear to be a bad idea as it would drill through the outside of the truck. Use a dremel or other cut off wheel to get them as close as possible and then a grinding wheel to take them down further?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I plan to fill in the "valleys" in the corrugation of the back wall with closed cell foam to bring them flush with the "peaks", then apply a layer of 1/8" CCF over which I'll apply a uniform sheet of MLV. I am thinking that I'll also remove the plastic trim panel shown in orange, and the one above it, on both sides and run the sound-proofing into those areas as well as extend it across the floor at least to just behind the seats. Any thoughts on this? Trying to avoid removing the seats for the time being.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Jul 2, 2010 at 9:56 AM
    #2
    EricT

    EricT Well-Known Member

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    Got my kenwood 8" subs back there, and my amp and crossovers. Mucho fun.
     
  3. Jul 2, 2010 at 9:59 AM
    #3
    scottri

    scottri Well-Known Member

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    There is a special drill bit made for drilling out spot welds. I'd find a good tool store in your area and ask them. I used one to drill out the welds for the rocker panels on my old GMC truck. It worked great.
     
  4. Jul 2, 2010 at 10:06 AM
    #4
    JAG

    JAG Well-Known Member

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    I did the same thing. Except from I lined the walls with the package wrap that my oem color matched grill came in. It has toyota's logo on the side so I thought it looked cool. I keep a toolbox, jack, sledge, and tool belt all behind there. I'll take a pic. I just left the hooks there though.
     
  5. Jul 2, 2010 at 10:15 AM
    #5
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is good to know. Ace Hardware or a better shop than that?

    ETA:

    If I understand how thse gizmos work I would be able to even use them on the yellow tabs in the photos, right? They cut around the weld, not through it, so the metal underneath is unharmed?
     
  6. Jul 2, 2010 at 3:13 PM
    #6
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got home this afternoon and started playing around. Took some more photos, this time with the measuring tape.

    Size of spot weld
    [​IMG]


    Depth at folded seat
    [​IMG]


    viewed another way
    [​IMG]


    Depth at beam
    [​IMG]


    Depth at top (virtually non-existant
    [​IMG]


    height of folded seat
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Jul 2, 2010 at 3:21 PM
    #7
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm also thinking of cutting the tops off the bins and installing just the tops with some dampening material to keep them from rattling. Anyone know what new bins cost if I totally jack them up and want more?
     
  8. Jul 2, 2010 at 6:28 PM
    #8
    JAG

    JAG Well-Known Member

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    I saw some for sale for 40 dollars under the b/s/t. the dealer on the other hand would tell you a different price...


    Check this place for pretty decent deals on oem parts...

    http://www.toyotapartszone.com/
     
  9. Jul 2, 2010 at 7:31 PM
    #9
    scottri

    scottri Well-Known Member

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    Harbor Freight might have it, I don't think my local Ace would but yours may have a better selection.
     
  10. Jul 2, 2010 at 7:42 PM
    #10
    SlurpeeBlueMetallic

    SlurpeeBlueMetallic FFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU...

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    I wouldn't get rid of the LATCH points (car seat hooks). If you go to sell and it's found they are missing they may have to be replaced. Alternatively, if a kid(s) come into the picture while you still have the truck then the LATCH points are much better than the seat belts when trying to secure a car seat.
     
  11. Jul 2, 2010 at 7:49 PM
    #11
    JKD

    JKD Well-Known Member

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    I would be inclined to work around the factory mounting points, not remove them.

    As the previous poster noted, it could be an issue at resale or trade-in.
     
  12. Jul 2, 2010 at 7:55 PM
    #12
    APTJ

    APTJ Well-Known Member

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    got subs that fit in the plastic box:)

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Jul 3, 2010 at 2:56 AM
    #13
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The resale is maybe a concern, kid is not.

    Someone would actually have to know enough about what they were looking for to check for them at resale though, and they could always be bolted back in if it was worth the time.
     
  14. Jul 3, 2010 at 6:31 AM
    #14
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a coupe of questions emailed in to Blair that I wouldn't expect to hear anything back on until Tuesday, but pending those answers I'm looking at ordering this cutter to take out the spot welds. It appears to me, however, that I'll have to remove the seats to get access to the lower welds on the tabs highlighted in yellow.
     
  15. Jul 3, 2010 at 6:34 AM
    #15
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Related question...

    Anyone figure out a way to possible lock the pull tabs for the seatbacks? Could they potentially be reversed to actuate with a button pressing down instead of a tab pulling up? and then perhaps a way to lock the button? Or a way to lock the pull string from being pulled up to release the seatback? Discrete (i.e. hidden from view outside the truck) would be best.
     
  16. Jul 3, 2010 at 1:03 PM
    #16
    O.C.

    O.C. Well-Known Member

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  17. Jul 3, 2010 at 1:13 PM
    #17
    tx_shooter

    tx_shooter This place is a cesspool of bfo and spacer lifts

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    I'm thinking a gun rack back there would be pretty f*n sweet... I'm going to have to keep an eye on this thread.
     
  18. Jul 6, 2010 at 7:49 AM
    #18
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    As-is with no trimming and no sound-proofing I put an Eagle Industries Discreet Case M4/ CAR15 with two rifles (one in the main pouch and a shorter one in the front pouch) behind the passenger-side rear seat. Friggen stoked at this development as this is the case I use more often than anything else. Now if I can make more room by trimming off all the tabs and/or get a locking system figured out, and have it all work with some sound-deadening, I will be very, very happy. Best possible outcome for me.
     
  19. Jul 6, 2010 at 9:08 AM
    #19
    Zombie Runner

    Zombie Runner Are these black helicopters for me?

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    Ive got wet okole seat covers and there is a small slit for the pull tab to come through. if the pull tab is just left under the seat cover and not pulled through you wouldnt really notice it. Ill snap a pick at lunch. that along with the headrests installed I think you wouldnt even know the rear seats moved at all.
     
  20. Jul 6, 2010 at 9:08 AM
    #20
    rob_s

    rob_s [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got a response. I'm going to order some cutters and see what I can screw up!

     
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