Prolonged high idle at cold start?

It's 32 degrees out you clown. 5 minutes is nothing. It takes time for an engine to warm at idle. You do you and continue to research a problem that is only in YOUR head.

 

Well is it five or is it six minutes to 750 RPM’s. Sounds like you’re just guessing.

 

sounds like u don't read well , read earlier posts

 

it also was 32 degrees in November before the cleaning , and the idle dropped to about -800 in around a minute before cleaning , so whats your point ?

 

I cleaned my throttle body, MAF censor and my drop in K&N today and had a simpler thing happen. I started it up and it was idling around 2,200 rpm. The check engine light came on along with the trac light. Thought to myself that’s weird and stabbed the gas to see if it would kick down. It didn’t really pick up any rpms even if I held it to the floor. I hopped out disconnected the battery to see if something would reset and looked around to see if I had maybe knocked off a vacuum hose or something stupid. Found nothing really jumping out at me. Gave it about a 20 minutes and hooked up the battery again. Fired right up no check engine light. Ran like normal. I let it sit and idle for about 5 minutes to make sure nothing weird was gonna happen then took it for a quick 20 mile drive. Still fine, I have a petal commander it ran like a snappy raped ape. Just got home and jumped into the TW research cave and came across this thread. From what I’ve read so far I guess it needed to reset? I didn’t undo the battery when cleaned it so maybe that was the problem.

 

FWIW I have an 05 Taco with only 15000 miles and I get what I consider to be too high of idle for too long even when warm. I understand start-up first thing in the morning but no way a car should idle at 1500 rpm for any length of time on a 70 degree day sitting in the sun. Maybe its the nature of the engine (4.0) but its annoying when a modern car jumps into gear with a lurch due to idle speed.

 

I had a similar issue after I cleaned MAF + TB, replaced spark plugs, new air filter, removed MAF mesh + secondary air filter. It would be stuck in high idle even after reaching operating temps. I removed the negative battery post for a few minutes and the ecu reset itself and relearned. No more issues and idles perfectly now.

 

Hello everyone. Just noticed I’m having a similar issue. In the middle of the day when it is warm, idle is normal upon start. When I drive it, it is normal as well (700rpm)


Early in the morning with 30-40 degree weather, idle is high 1500-2k rpm and stays that high for 10 minutes or longer. Then when I take off and drive it, idle stays that high until I get home.

any thoughts? Thank you for your time .

 

@SAM'S new TACO I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure there is a "fast idle valve" near the throttle body. It has 2 little coolant lines going to it and it acts like a idle air control valve except its controlled by coolant temp. I know they were common on Hondas back in the 90s.

When the coolant temp is cold the valve is open and the idle is high, when the coolant heats up the valve closes and the idle comes down. Kinda similar to a thermostat except it controls air flow around/through the throttle body not coolant flow like a regular thermostat.

They can get gummed up with carbon and stick open resulting in a high idle even after the engine is hot. They need a good supply of coolant through the little hoses. How's the coolant level? Topped off? After the engine is good and hot, grab both those little hoses and see if they are hot, they should be. If they're hot the fast idle valve should be pinched off and idle should be low. If idle is still high, try removing and cleaning the valve

Again, i could be wrong.. i used to see those valves act up on older hondas, toyota used some of the same technology back then.. trying to picture what stuff is near the throttle body on your 97 and can't really remember..

Good luck

 

normal ...........

 

I was respectfully hi jacking this post.

v6 3.4


Only when it’s about 30-40 degrees outside, the idle is high when left parked for hours.

if I left parked for hours and it’s the middle of the day (70-80 degrees) the idle is normal at startup. Meaning yeah it goes to 1500 but goes down within a minute or two.

I will check coolant. I was think IAC. Thoughts?

thank you for your time

 

when the idle drops after only a minute

its ready to roll

many think engine needs prolonged warm up....................maybe below freezing

once oil circulates thru engine a few times...............seconds actually

time to stop wasting gas

does NOT mean to click off 1/4 at max gvw full throttle

my RAV will actual show middle needle less than 2 miles community driving

acouple more minutes on ramp to interstate

its a go!

 

I idle for 30-60 seconds (depending on ambient temps), drive less than 1/4 mile to the on-ramp, and my temp gauge hits normal after about 1 mile on the interstate. The 4-cylinder warms up quickly with gentle driving.

 

My 97 taco is doing the same thing. High idle in cold weather/cold start. Stays at 1500. Drive it for a bit with high rpm, park it, turn it off, then drive it again and it goes away and back to normal to 800rpm.

cleaned throttle body.
cleaned IAC


Same thing. If anything, the idle is higher. What should I do?

 

The quickest way to warm the 300 lb lump under the hood is the following.
Start it,
Wait about 10 seconds for the oil to circulate.
Put in gear.
Drive.....easy

It'll be warm in a couple miles or so.

High idle is normal at start up to help warm the engine to full operating temperature. No need to sit in the garage burning fuel and sucking up CO, CO2, SO, SO2 and other noxious fumes.

The key to quick warm up is to DRIVE.

High idle with a cold engine is normal. The time on high idle will be longer if you DON'T DRIVE it.

OP, don't obsess about normal engine warm-up behavior.

 

800 rpm is high ( 16000 miles )

my SR idles at 600-650 normal

1000 to 1500 high idle is cold idle

on UR second ignition engine No longer cold.........ECU is reading correctly

 

what EVERY SAE (Society Automotive Engineers ) Detroit........dont want to ace out the euro/ Japanese/korean engineers recommend !!!!!

idling excessively (warm upz ) are the WORST thing to do to an engine warm/cold !!!

excessive pollution & exacerbated wear

true some idling is necessary stop lites/drive thrus

yet keeping ‘ idle ‘ to a minimum is the Best !!