proper engine stand rating for 3.4L

Hey. So I want to do an engine swap. I can't find anything here about the best or at least...wait for it...the least load rating for an engine stand. I found that the 3.4L weighs about 450-500lbs.. Is a 750lbs rated stand enough? I read that some bend with lighter engines and are a bit unwieldy and apt to flex and wobble from the load. Im going to dress that pig with the usual suspects and that Crank shaft bolt for the timing belt job has one heck of a torque spec. I would appreciate input as I pick up the motor tomorrow and need to buy a hoist before I get the motor so I can get the motor out of the bed of my truck when I get it home. I found a couple of used pairs[hoist and stand} on Craigslist but one stand is rated 750lbs and the other Im not sure yet.
Thanks

 

Harbour Freight has them from 750 lbs to 1 ton rating. Yes they can be a bit scary to use especially when rotating the motor to get to the oil pan. I always leave the hoist chain attached to the cherry picker just in case. As for the crank bolt a long piece of 1/4, 5/16 X 2 or 3 inch wide flat stock with holes drilled that allow you to put some bolts into the pulley to prevent the motor from spinning once it hits the stand works just fine. I think someone even has a picture of his homemade crank holder. If you weren't all the way across the country I would say come over to my place and I will give you one of mine. It seems that when your family knows you work on cars they "acquire" things like engine stands, jack stands and p.o.s. floor jacks thinking you can use them.

The biggest problem I have with the HF cherry picker is the steel wheels. If the rolling surface isnt close to perfect you are going to be fighting this heavy load at the end of a boom and that isnt fun. I solved this by putting down 3 pieces 5/8 OSB sheeting and driving the majority of the front of the truck on it. I used 2 sheets at first but realized that the floor jack had to roll under to the transmission and the cherry picker had to go back far enough so the motor will clear the front bumper with out falling off the OSB board.

 

I'd go with a 2 ton engine hoist because they'll typically give you more clearance over the core support - I got away without a stand.

 

Freshening it up, TB, valve cover gaskets, freeze plugs, etc., would be difficult with it sitting on the floor, no?

 

Did everything but freeze plugs including headers on the pallet - wasn't too difficult, but I'm a penny pincher too haha. Just ratchet strapped it to the pallet. I waited to torque down the crank bolt when I had it in the truck.

 

I liked you from the beginning D. And great advice waiting on tightening that bolt.

That second hoist/stand combo turned out alright. I knew the hoist was 2ton going in; the stand turns out to be rated for 1250. Shwing! Throw it in my truck, jam back home.

The motor didn't turn out but I've got a hoist and a stand....and a line on wreaked and loaded T4R. Awaiting word on the mileage. If all is good I'm a go medieval on it's a.s.