Proportioning valve crumbling and falling apart, need help with new part

If you're not into high performance driving or street racing, not not really. You will not see a difference at all

What the valve does is adjust the rear brake force proportionally to what you are carrying in the bed

When bypassing/cancelling, you turn it to a permanent 50% front, 50% rear

If you want to add one because it makes you feel safer, you're free to

 

i found a valve for only $35, so ill probably just go with that for the placebo honestly. thanks for the info though

 

using a magnet on a stick to capture large peeled coating pieces, a shopVac with some crude rudimentary attachment to stick in suck out, high psi air hose shoved in maybe can get more blowed forward

that air hose was a fun one the other day blowing sand all out of the holes everywhere lol

not sure about looking into a high psi water jet to strip it all out in there yet
then looking at some eastwood internal frame coating, both colors

 

All you need to know about Rusty Tacos
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rust-prevention-treatment-consolidation-thread.355928/

 

If your getting a used valve or new plan on getting the brake tubing and fittings to run the new lines .

Do your ABS brakes work good ??

I have never had a LSPV that ever worked on a Toyota 4x4 .

Best of Luck.

 

My truck doesn't have ABS

Bad LSPV often cause rear brake issues or makes them not work at all
I guess you cancelled your LSPV too? Did you put a valve back or not?

 

That was meant for the OP sorry As They needed to get another LSPV I figured they might want to add ABS brakes to feel better.

I have found with the Manual valve or none at all I get used to the braking .

My Booster has not worked for 2 years one of these days I will remember to install the new one.

I replaced the brake line just never got around to installing the manual valve it is floating around someplace it will turn up one day.

 

I plan on running new break lines. And my truck doesn't have abs either

 

Just so we're all clear- the proportioning valve's primary purpose is to REDUCE rear brake bias when the bed is empty to help stop the rear wheels locking up under braking. It is NOT there to 'increase rear brakes with a load'. It's a subtle but very important difference and will help you make the right decision about whether to remove it or replace it.

Also, break lines are not good- I recommend brake lines.

 

I too have a Wilwood MPV collecting dust. I bought it back in February when I did my rear LT. I couldn't really find a lot of info about the valve itself and if it's really a required item. Knowing more about it now, I would think if you're staying stock you will want it installed. No LSPV you'll pry be able to lock up the rear. I never installed the Wilwood because I decided to just cut the LSPV rod in half and zip tie the rod in it's highest position, supposedly giving it the most braking power (simulated load) to the rear drums and I haven't had any complaints. I should say that I have 35's. I was more worried that if I completely removed it the rear would lock up under braking but forum threads that I've read through say that if you have 33's or 35's that you won't lock up the rear under braking even with the LSPV deleted. There's other work associated with installing the Wilwood or even deleting the LSPV all together that I did NOT want to get into at the time... If you're stock or semi stock I'd just replace it with new LSPV and be done with it.

 

Ok thanks for the clarification. And I was doing some more research and now I'm thinking the manual valve might be better? Just read this post https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nt-and-lines-leading-to.508153/#post-15929730
And yeah I'll make sure to buy brake lines and replace the break lines haha

 

I'm pretty much stock right now but plan on upgrading in the future. I found a LSPV for $35 anyway compared to $170 new.

 

The stock LSPV is good for up to a 2" lift I believe... Don't quote me. Lol but there's plenty of info on the web about raising the bracket on the axle itself up to compensate for more lift. IMHO unless you're going full LT in the rear you do NOT need a MPV. I think the more important factor here is drum condition. Have a working LSPV and good working condition drums and you're good to go. I just put the Tundra 231mm calipers on my truck with a full drum rebuild kit and new wheel cylinders and it's vastly better braking and I never touched that stupid LSPV. The MPV you have to constantly adjust for different conditions. Maybe a 50/50 bias works for 90% of your driving but I don't have direct experience to make that call. I think the MPV is more for like a trail rig/prerunner truck. Not a daily or something you drive often. Until I decide to do the MPV this is my opinion. Could change. The only way I would do the MPV is if you can run new brake lines to it and have the MPV inside the cab somewhere where making adjustment on the fly is easy. Having to pop your hood or go under the vehicle to make an adjustment for me is NO GO. Good luck my friend!

 

as an update to this thread, looks like there's now replacement aftermarket brake proportioning valves available on ebay, according to listings. Chinese-made though