Puppypunters idea hole

Hello hole dwellers! There's a project I'm working on which pushes to the absolute edge of my knowledge with every step, because electrical stuff just isn't what this foggy brain was built to do.

QUESTIONS PART 1

Thanks to a really helpful tip from Dave I was able to locate one of the parts I need, but am having a bear of a time finding the complementary coupler, and am hoping you electro nerds might know what's up.

The part in question is 90980-12559 (dude, I just typed that from memory!) -- I'm in search of the complementary receiver for this clip. I've found a couple "kits" on Alibaba that include the receiver, but don't provide a part number that could be used to find it elsewhere.

Also, it seems like maybe a special crimper is needed to secure wires to the little metal inserts that are fitted into the fully assembled clip -- anybody know what that crimper is called?




QUESTIONS PART 2

This project is basically an effort to remap the steering media controls. Originally, the plan was to break all on-board connections for each button, and solder jumpers in place to remap the inputs, but the solder work is way too fine for me and no phone/PC repair shops are willing to take the work, so I've opted to go a more do-it-myself route using Arduino.



A stock Arduino can apparently read voltage on it's I/O pins, so that's nice. But the documentation I've been able to find seems to only refer to resistances when interacting with the controls. A quick Google search leads me to believe that changing resistance will result in changing voltage. Is it safe to assume that the truck is, in fact, monitoring voltages and not resistances along the series? Or...?





I'm also having a hard time deciphering the matrix above. Why are two jumpers listed, such as "3 (+DP2) - 8 (EAU)" -- does that indicate you need to measure both jumpers in order to receive the specified value?

QUESTIONS PART 3

Is there any resource to find which pin is used to provide power to the board, and just how much power is provided? I'm finding lots of info that is voltage-adjacent, but nothing about the power consumption. Maybe it's as easy as finding whichever fuse affects this??

It'd be sick to be able and test this on a workbench, instead of having to use the truck to provide power and all that -- especially while writing and debugging code on the Arduino once it comes to that step.




Thanks for any info you might be able to provide. Let me know if these kinds of off-topic posts are unwelcome -- I can start my own "Zak is clueless" thread to avoid that in the future if so.

 

Hello hole dwellers.

im working on a project involving DD SS3 backlight ditch light pods. my plan is to have the backlights powered via the DRL/Running light plug from the headlights, and also tie in turn signals as well.

ive been working with @daveeasa to bounce ideas off of and to gather some T taps for both the DRL or running lights (can't make up my mind which trigger to use) and also the turn signal taps (left turn for left pod, right turn... ect.) he has helped immensely! thx daveeasa!!

One of his suggestions was to us a tail light converter (for a trailer) to combine the DRL back light and turns into one pod light. ill attach a crude drawing of how im using it vs how its normally wired. the issue ive run into is that when the DRL input is on, the turn signal back light on the pod flash out of phase with the rest of the turn signals on the truck , which is what i was trying to avoid if i had just used a simple relay to break the DRL power. . if the DRL's are off the turn signals (and backlights) flash normal and in phase.

Typical Converter wiring


how i plan(and did some testing) on using the converter.


ive been down the road of thinking about using a 555 chip to get a PWM signal at ~50% duty cycle for the DRL back light and then sending 100% for the turns, so basicly the lights would be "dim" with just DRL on and blink from "dim" to bright. that seems like alot of work and im not even sure if the circuitry inside the light would accept a "dim" input.

my latest idea might not work exactly as i think but i might be getting close with some input from the hole dwellers. if there's a turn signal, signal; that doesn't flash but signals some BCM CCM or some other module to flash i can use that signal to open a relay and then feed the backlight via the relay with the actual "flashing" turn signal.




im only one beer in so hopefully this was some what understandable and if you made it through hopefully i can gain some guidance and information.​

 

Is that to say you probe both the denoted leads to get a reading?

Thanks for the reply

 

LMAO yeah..... i didnt know how else to word it.
when you pull the turn signal lever in the truck, what is it doing? is it a direct switch from 12v to the turn signal flasher? or does it signal some module to actually flash the lights. so a turn signal, signal haha idk if that helps any.

 

Yes.

 

It's providing a ground to activate the selected side.

 

so if the selector grounds the direction circuit i could feed my relay 12v and tap the switched ground from the selector?

 

Yes

 

any chance you have the wiring schematic so i can visualize the circuit

 

Harness already "available" - ask @Puppypunter

 

Alright one more question, what is the switch grounding? Any idea what the circuit consists of.

 

The light stalk switch (combination switch) grounds the various light circuits. As you rotate the end it engages a circuit to ground which activates that circuit. As the rotation continues it adds a circuit to the previous one, i.e. ALL OFF, DRL, DRL & TAIL, DRL & TAIL & LOW BEAMS - for HIGH BEAMS is pull or push to select, hence the "combination" part. The Main BODY ECU is a "gateway" to the light circuit relays. So if the combination switch is left ON when you shut down the Taco, the ECU turns the circuits OFF-via Auto Lights OFF feature.
The turn signal is the same, UP is right, down is left. Steering wheel engages the back to off feature. (trip)
The red wire in the turn signal is for turn select without locking. The Taco has that feature, although many don't even use there turns.

 

got ya. Any idea what in the body ecu is being grounded(just a pull up, maybe a transistor) I guess what I’m asking is if I use the ground via the combination switch to ground my 12v relay do I need diodes upstream of the switch to prevent transient current going into the body ecu? Or is it protected? Or just don’t worry about it.

 

I'd diode whatever circuit your adding the relay to. Prevention is much better than reaction.

 

@Agem_89


https://www.jegs.com/i/Hella/288/H44452001/10002/-1

 

Daveeasa suggested I post this here...I really want to not 'kill the mood' when I stall my MT. Or, I like keeping the radio on when I fill up with gas..and when I restart the truck I do not want to 're boot' the radio. More pronounced with aftermarket head unit. Even though I am almost 50 what can I say I want the Tacoma to have a feel good vibe and mood. Thinking of installing this inline in the 'accessory that matters' circuit (in my case a blue sea fuse box in the glovebox powering audio gear). It is made for emergency vehicles but the function should be the same.

 

That is a good idea. It makes me laugh that when we go from Accessory to Start, the radio will reboot, but the window switches, esp Auto Up / Down, do not see the power interruption.


There is still that part of me that wants the windows to function any time the doors are unlocked. About the only thing that I miss about hand crank windows.