Push me in a direction, what would you pick?

I’m absolutely spent, hopefully tomorrow if I can manage to get out of bed, I’ll hook up carista and flounder trying to figure that out, and turning off all the gay techie stuff..
Hopefully that won’t be too horrible to navigate..
And Wednesday, the new release of the rock sliders that I’m involved with get installed if all goes to plan…

 

Did you replace speakers or just deaden the doors?

 

Going all in, but undecided on what brand / series drivers...
Were doing SQ systems with a DSP...
Bob & I are waiting for controllers, "any day now".....
Just hold your breath...

So for now I just matted the inner & outer door skins & door panels...
Dreading doing the back of the cab.
My understanding seat doesnt need to come out,
Flyfisher pulled his rear plastics with seat still in but he doesnt have the jbl system, jbl sub might make things tighter trying to do that.
Also think the rear cab panels are more substantial on the jbl system vs the minor strips / bezels & felt on a non jbl,
Sure the seat comes right out, just dont look like it will be fun sitting back there matting.

 

The seat backs are light weight and super easy to pull out, 4 bolts, FYI

 

played with Carista, turned-off all the seatbelt chimes, activated the long press / roll down all windows & open sun roof just because even though I NEVER have my fob with me, most importantly I turned off ANC & ENC....
Really didnt change the sound in the cab compared to my previous sr5, clattery & drony on take-off, it is what it is...

Looked behind the rear seat, the plastics around the sub took all 30 15 seconds to remove...
I can easly just fold the seats down & sound deaden the entire back wall with the seats still in, just like FlyFisher suggested to me..

I really torn on the sub enclosure option...
Dont really care if I lose my underseat storage...
Groundshaker has a sealed enclosure for under seat, single 10" or single 12" designed for either standard sub or a JL TW3...
"Burrito" Tunes is coming out with a single 10" or single 12" PORTED what im assuming is molded plastic enclosure for behind the seat, with standard subs.
Requiring removing the pastics which I have zero issues with....

Im twitching & want to pull the trigger on the GS but would be nice to really see what this final product from TT is all about..

Some say the formed plastic enclosure will perform not as good as a solid mdf enclosure..

Losing underseat storage isnt an issue for me, but part of me feels it would be nicer behind the seat & the storage remains.
Sound quality is #1 though...

Nobody can really say what will sound better a Jl 12tw3 in a sealed enclosure or a standard 12" in a ported enclosure, but i havent dove into systems in 25 years..

 

So…..
If you’re interested in rock sliders that are really designed for their intended use…
Here’s an option, look up NW2 off-road on instagram.
They’re overbuilt, sexy & a great value, even when shipped compared to the big names…
They ship through out the US..
My 24 Tacoma was 3d scanned so they can develop their rock sliders, skid plates with actual access to the oil filter…..
Bed racks, mollie panels, etc….

after the scan they reworked their previous gen design / cad drawing, & went from there…
Here’s a view of the first run rock sliders.
So for those that may be interested in the future, reach out to ray & lee on ig at nw2 off-road…

 

Bump…
From my due diligence, this route is cheaper than sourcing OEM switches, fabricating, or buying wiring, harnesses with relays, cleaner install, simple…
Got it from an eBay vendor for $110




Think this controller is going back & getting a different auxbeam, with the solid state relays...
Not liking how this one only has positive wire attachment points, so all grounds still need to go to the battery...
That wouldn't be the clean install im looking for, defeats the purpose...

 

Have you test fit or measured these? I just found these out and wondered if they would fit, I've been wanting to upgrade my but having the JBL system just seems like a lot of work and adapters needed.

 

Look at post 177.....
Its alot of work, leave it to the pro's when it comes to the advancement were dealing with...
Not sure exactly what your referring to, maybe just the single jbl component speaker?
I have not, I went extreme...
If youre referring to the 12" sub, its in my truck now...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4th-gen-jbl-replacement.830793/page-9

 

ah Thanks, i missed that whole page. I havn't messed with car audio since 2004, so the PAC ap4-ty-14 is used to bypass the factory system and run your own power and sub

 

yes...
using the ap ty 14, youre not hacking up any of the factory wiring & getting a nice quality clean signal to your amps.
Its the part we've been waiting on for almost a year now & available....

 

Doing my part keeping the OG's thread alive, little bump...
Bobs started the sickness, I just elevated it a bit...
Didn't feel there was a reason to create another thread..

Here's what the installer ended up doing with the tweeters.
After me calling focal tech support numerous times over educating myself on what these tweeters really needed & wanted to sound their best in regards to positioning....
Some tweeters thrive off axis, others need to be on axis to sound their best.
If a tweeter is designed to sound best off axis & you installed it in an angled mount pointing at you, you didn't do yourself any favors..
vise versa...
expressing my concern to my installer about these needing to be on-axis to perform their best, blah, blah, blah....
Frak tweeters are substantially different than what was previously offered....
My installer had a discussion with Nick Wingate over the situation....
Nick Wingate actually personally called me....
Explained the a-pillar if installed / positioned correctly will be just as good as getting the pods, won't matter enough to go through the trouble with getting the pods.
Nick was very familar with the pods from Germany...
My installer wanted to keep the install clean as possible & thought he could aim those tweeter pretty much / close enough to on axis & still be in the stock a pillar mount...
So This is what they came-up with....
Sounds really good, wondering if I'll really hear any improvement after the break-in period. Or if it will get louder at all...
Can really hear the time delay, the "soundstage" sound jumping around throughout the various speakers, etc...
Unlike the other installers dsp system I demo'd, I didn't hear any of that in his build.
I feel it can be louder but it's plenty loud.
Think most installers also tune / adjust to keep things bullet proof....
He did say there was a bit more adjustment in the loudness dept but felt confident is his adjustments...
Overall happy with it, see what happens when I get some real time behind the wheel.
Amps dont fit under the seat so they went same locations as Bobs, where the jbl mini sub was....
This is a full active system, crossovers were not used inline with the speakers,
all dont within the dsp tune...
I can say, I have ZERO rattles even with the sub control knob cranked to the moon & this is with a 12" sub powered by 800 watts...
EXCEPT for the bezel around the rear view mirror, I will handle that tomorrow, will sound deaden it...
May also be a perfect candidate for some of that hybrid sound skin closed cell matting since the panel lays on the glass to a certain extent.
dont have a pic of the sub, tomorrow...



















Last edited: Dec 21, 2024

 

After having the AVS wind deflectors in my garage for almost a year now, finally got around to putting them on…

 

I enjoy seeing what others are doing to their Tacomas. You’re going to run out of things to do in the next two years!

 

I’m hoping so, that’s the plan…
Want to be done!!!

 

apparently amz does mess around with aux beam, same day delivery…

 

There’s no way in hell I’m gonna use eight switches,
Not going to turn the truck into a xmas tree...
But the eight switch was cheaper than the six switch…
Made a decision and went with it…
I think it looks clean!
WIll make wiring lights, or whatever, much easier...
End of the day, was cheaper than getting just oem switches from cali raised, plug & play or hand made harnesses by me with relays, etc...

 

Looking at the picture, maybe tomorrow ill try tucking the power wire closest to the fender...
Maybe get that wire below the fuse box, in-between the box & the fender rail....

 

So originally had my entire windshield Amick tinted 50%, went back a week later and they installed a 6 inch 5% strip across the top….
Right when I got home, I noticed a pinhole and a slight scratch in the windshield tent, squeegee must’ve nicked it…
So I got another free do over, went 35% ceramic on the entire windshield…
Ouuugggghhhh yeahhhhhh…..
Love!!!!
See how things go tonight in the dark....