QQ …..rad hoses

Brand new OE water pump OS

 

In all honesty, I went with the duracrap one from autoZ...

it was in a combo deal with a new fan clutch.......I couldnt resist...


Those and my lifetime starter are from them....
......first starter from them only lasted a year.......

 

Somethings not right - I can run AC in high temps with my rad made for a 2.4 on my 3.4 on the highway no issues. No issues with compression test? That coolant looks thrashed if it’s only 4 years old.

 

Well, kinda worse (as far as coolant condition)

this was done…..3 months ago

 

Everything basically replaced but the 4yr old rad
And
I didn’t flush entire cooling system

2000 miles since tht job done^^

so coolant “refill “ only 3 months ago

leading to summarize that cooling system needs complete flush(s)

 

I will complete another compression test
NP
Coolant reservoir is more low than high

 

Yeah I just did 200+ miles in 105-110* heat today at highway speeds with my original 16 year old radiator and AC on no problem. Back this spring when my coolant bypass pipe broke and let out half my coolant, the other half I drained looked perfect and a good majority of it was original - just topped off when I was losing it through the bypass pipe weep.

Your coolant looks dirty and it could be from oil or it could be something else. I know regional environmental differences can play a part in that possibly, but 4 year old coolant should look pretty close to new based on what I’m used to seeing.

 

You know when you get a vehicle... what coolant crazies have gone on in the past?

When you get a toyota with green coolant I would always closely inspect.

If they mixed the two coolants together.....it could of made a mess.


And if they did not use the right coolant....it will attack the fipg and the metal gaskets.


If you flush with any of that damage......you could spring a leak.


I would consider coolant much more important than oil choice.....it actually governs the life of the engine more.
I dont like the red coolant......but if you've gone that path, change it way more often than 7 yrs.....

And if you go the green......there's only two that's safe for toyota's.......the prestone max and the peak 10x

 

With updated silicone / metal gaskets in the intake, water pump, and thermostat housing, I can't think of many places on a 5vz that coolant and rtv / fipg touch besides the bypass pipe, but maybe there's some on a 2/3rz. Mixing incorrect combinations of coolants can reportedly lead to clogs, and that would definitely shorten the lifespan of an engine if it's causing it to overheat.

 

Honestly I would just go with a flush and see what happens.
I've never had any issues with any of the radiator flush stuff out there, btw.
Just follow their instructions and see what happens.

 

CC got hit by the hurricane and out of power. Said they ok but had some damage.

 

Had a tornado touch down in Tucson, literally a few miles from me.
We are fine, no issues at all. Dog's weren't too thrilled though.

 

Thanks Thatt
40yrs in Houston
More than a dozen hurricanes/tropical storms I have been through
This one hurt me

4 trees down (2 on house)
3 fences down
No power for 5days
No cell service 2.5 days

after 5 days in 104 heat of manual labor
Work done……on my house/property

Now back to work today
12 insurance claims awaited me!

Me and kids good health
That’s all that matters

once I get through this craziness
Will be sure and update rad/flush install!

 

Getting back to normal round here
Big issue is my L elbow
Appears I way over worked it(like Tennis Elbow)
Getting better but still hurts

Flush update though:
After 5 times of water flush (only draining rad after 15m of idle time)
Coolant went from rust brown to clear
Over a period of 2 days of draining/refilling

next step is to drain block(that bolt under distributor) AND flush heater core

I tried that block bolt today but my arm prevented me from getting drain plug bolt (14mm) off

keep yall posted
New rad sitting in garage since b4 hurricane
Cheers