Quality of Lifts for 3 inch

After researching many lifts, it's hard to determine which ones are good and which are not. Ironman? Rough Country? Tuff Country? Skyjacker? Other?

While using the search, I've noticed many talk bad about Rough Country. While looking at other kits, the parts appear the same as RC with different names stamped on the parts. What's actually the deal with RC? Their kits seem to have the same type parts.

How about Ironman?

 

All spacer lifts are the same, just a massive block that forces the suspension to retain height.

Rough country has more choices now but they still arent a top quality choice.

Ironman is a great choice, bilstien, fox, icon etc.

3" is a lot to ask for, its basically so high it results in other issues. You'll find most recommend 1-2" lift max.

 

You may want to outline your uses and goals to help point you in the direction of the best product for your use but at the end of the day 3" is to much plan to be 2" if you want less overall hassle.

 

I think rough country quality has improved over the last couple of years. Especially on their tonneau covers. Not my first choice for suspension though.

How about Bilstein 5100s?

https://hotshotoffroad.com/collecti...s/products/5100-0-2-leveling-kit-16-22-tacoma

https://hotshotoffroad.com/collecti...t-kit-w-replacement-coil-options-16-22-tacoma

 

As mentioned RC quality is bottom of the barrel.
Look at Eibach, ther good quality and great warranty. Bilstein is good but on stiffer side. Fox are soft, ok quality. Eibach fall right in middle between in comfort of Bilstein and Fox.

 

Good advice and I agree. Eibach’s various setups/products offer a lot of juice for the squeeze.

 

3" is a lot! 2 is normally considered the max of you want a durable system. A lot of people just crank up their preload but end up loosing droop travel. Remember that you'll want to keep no less than 40% of your total travel for droop. In other words, If your total travel was 10", you would want no more than 6" up travel and 4" down travel.

I have a 3.5" long travel and I don't think I even have 3" of lift

 

Bilstein 5100 2/1" for the Win

 

2” max IMO OR UNDER

 

So if I'm hearing this right, go 2" in the front and leave the rear alone? You guys have me leaning to the Bilstein 5100s.

 

I’ve installed OME on both of my Tacoma’s with no problems.

 

I would keep rack for handling and loading purposes,,, the rear springs can't carry much more than groceries.

 

This^ but this goes inline with what are you going to use the truck for? I say your rear lift should match the front. That's the approach I have taken and appreciate the most for performance. Of using the truck like a truck. If you do nothing in the rear with a 2" front you will have a negetive rake or more to the front than the back. You always want a positive rear rake. I believe stock before the leaf springs flatten the first time you sit in the truck is around 2". That allows you a fair bit of load before you end up lower than the front.
But the method on how you lift the rear changes based on use. If you are going to carry loads and tow full leaf pack is the only way. If your carrying nothing and just rolling around town you can get away with a block and or add a leaf.

 

If you do 2" up front and nothing in the rear, you will have the Carolina Squat look. You will need a 1" block in the rear, or a (AAL) Add A Leaf, if you constantly have weight in the box.

If you just do 1" up front, you won't need any height added in the rear, it will look level.

 

why do you need a 3 inch lift?

 

While I do have a full size truck for towing and more heavy hauls, I'm always hauling something. Most likely nothing over 400 lbs.

 

@Wick

We should have asked this from the beginning. Why are you lifting the truck? Is it performance or looks?

If it's purely for looks, then by all means do the 3. Or even a 6". No one here will judge you if you just say it's for looks. Embrace the mall crawler.

If it's for performance, don't go over 2".

 

For looks or not, 3" lift is still going to stress the CV joint boots and trash ride quality just the same.
2" is really the upper limit on these trucks if problems are to be avoided (6" if you have drop brackets)
Rough Country exceeds that by quite a lot, and is part of why they have the rap that they do.


You (OP) still haven't said what your intended use is/why you want the lift, but your 4 basic options are:

1. Shock lift (most popular), Easiest installation, practical lift height limit is 2".
Numerous kits are available (Bilstein 5100 seems the solid choice for those wanting performance on a budget, Bilstein 6112 is also popular) Avoid cheap spacer lifts, they cause problems with overcompressing the shock (causing breakage)/overextension of the suspension, you want a kit that has new replacement shocks.

2. Long-travel lift, provides 2"-3.5" lift, also widens your track width (requires wider fenders).
More complex installation, more $$$, but is a favorite for Go-Fast users for the increased wheel travel.
Camburg has always been popular, there are likely others that are good too.

3. Drop bracket lift, provides 4" up to 6½" lift, depending on kit brand & configuration.
More complex installation, more $$$. Good for rock crawling (which I s'pose can include mall crawling too lol).
BDS is best here, with shock options to accommodate different budgets.

4. Spindle lift (2WD only), provides 4" lift without changing anything else in the front suspension besides the knuckles. The MaxTrac kit is popular.
Can be combined with other components (the Bilstein shocks for example) for a custom build.


If you tell us more about your truck and what your goals are, we might be able to narrow it down further for you (for example, #4 can be immediately eliminated if your truck is 4x4).

 

and you need the front lifted for that?