question on fuse taps

Just finished wiring in fog lights on my 22 SR and looking at getting a Garmin Dash Cam™ Mini 2 with the parking mode cable.
can I wire up the two ignition wires on the same fuse tab or is that gonna fry some wiring or create a BBQ of my truck?
Parking Mode Cable |
Garmin

 

What do you mean, connect the acc and always-on wires to the same fuse?

Won't fry anything, but also the camera has the potential to parasite your battery, since it would be always on.

I'd run two taps as instructed. The point of the acc tap is that the camera knows to go into parking mode, but still has the power to record if it detects a collision.

 

for the fog lights: it has the positive, ground, acc, relay and switch. between that the lights only come on if the ignition is turned on and switch is turned on.
I am hoping conect the acc of the fog lights and the camera to the same fuse tap but all other wiring seperate....is that clearer? or more muddled?

 

Might be better to use 2 different ones, just for safety's sake and ease of troubleshooting.

 

Ahh ok. Makes sense.

Won't hurt anything. The camera's acc line is basically a trigger, it draws practically nil.

If the fogs are wired correctly then it's acc line should also be a trigger wire.

So you're safe.

Edit, though the ease of troubleshooting comment is a good point.

 

A fuse tap is rated. Follow the instructions or calculate the loads.

Do you have a fire extinguisher?

 

fuse tap is rated but it has no idea of the rating of the wire behind the tap. They are convenient but from an electric / electrician perspective a bad idea unless you do the maths yourself. The fuse is their to protect the wire, not the device at the end. So wiring from the battery (or source) to the fuse box that holds a 10a fuse is usually wire gauge rated at slightly over 10a. You add a fuse tap with 2x 10a fuses on that original fuse and you actually use 10a on both those new wires, you have now overloaded the wire running to the fuse box, and that’s a huge fire hazard. Most of the time people are tapping into something like the cig lighter fuse and don’t use both 10a circuits to their full load all the time / at the same time. So usually kinda safe. But a fuse tap does absolutely have the ability to overload the wire to the fuse it’s connected into. Hence I personally have never use them, and probably never will. I could see a use to trigger a relay and let that relay take the actual load. But apart from that not for me.

 

IN1 is behind the Driver's sail panel.
@kmorgan3 could assemble and sell you the harness.

 

I recently added a Cobra 2 channel cam in my truck. If you want advice on how to do that with the parking mode enabled I'll be happy to steer you

 

I added the same kit to my 2018 SR. I did an add a fuse in I think ignition two under the dash. The cover does not fit, but since you do not see it, it does not matter. When I forget to turn off the fogs lights off, they go off when I turn the truck off.

 

Correct, although the tap is of the bus side so the calculation is additive to the bus not the expected load in the current slot.

 

"Electrons are negatively charged, and so are attracted to the positive end of a battery and repelled by the negative end. So when the battery is hooked up to something that lets the electrons flow through it, they flow from negative to positive."
Rethink your fuse protection statement fellas...

 

That’s what I meant, but obviously wasn’t clear. The calculation should be done on the wire running to the specific fuse you tapped in the box (that’s not always a bus), but you need both loads to calculate if you are going to overload that wire.

 

So I read this thread I’m really not understanding if fuse taps are a good idea or bad idea I just want to run a little led light on my front grill so I was thinking tap to the ignition fuse that way when I start my truck it’s on? Correct me if I’m wrong