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Question On Manual Transmission Fluid For 3rd Gen

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by surfponto, Nov 3, 2023.

  1. Nov 3, 2023 at 10:55 AM
    #1
    surfponto

    surfponto [OP] Well-Known Member

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  2. Nov 3, 2023 at 11:09 AM
    #2
    joba27n

    joba27n YotaWerx Authorized tuner

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    Never heard of it. Let us know your feedback, especially if you cycle through a few different fluids for comparison
     
    Clearwater Bill likes this.
  3. Nov 3, 2023 at 11:13 AM
    #3
    BLtheP

    BLtheP Constantly Tinkering Member

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    Saw a guy on Facebook who used it and likes it. I’ve been through a few different fluids (not that one) and I have settled on Driven 80W-90 GL4 conventional as my favorite. It’s a tad notchy when cold (they all have been) but super smooth warm.

    The others I’ve tried:

    Motorcraft (didn’t like, notchy much of the time and way too expensive)

    Sta-Lube 85W-90 (good except when cold)

    Sta-Lube 140W (just an experiment, actually worked really well in summer but was too thick to even try to use in winter)

    Ravenol 75W-90 synthetic blend - good pretty much all the time. Would have kept using but I like the warm performance of Driven 80W-90 better.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2023
    camaro322hp and surfponto[OP] like this.
  4. Nov 3, 2023 at 12:24 PM
    #4
    surfponto

    surfponto [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Will do. I drove around the neighborhood and everything seemed pretty smooth.
     
  5. Nov 3, 2023 at 12:25 PM
    #5
    surfponto

    surfponto [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good to know thanks
     
  6. Nov 3, 2023 at 12:42 PM
    #6
    6MTPro

    6MTPro Well-Known Member

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    Tune, 285/75/16, Diode Dynamics, PPF, Bakflip Mx4, Meso, Cali Raised, TJM
    Top recs would be amoil, Ford Motorcraft, or Redline MT-95. Currently using Ford Motorcraft with my MT
     
    surfponto[OP] likes this.
  7. Nov 3, 2023 at 12:43 PM
    #7
    Evostaco

    Evostaco Jack of some of the trades, master of maybe 2

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    I run amsoil in mine
     
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  8. Nov 3, 2023 at 1:34 PM
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    joba27n

    joba27n YotaWerx Authorized tuner

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    Any particular reason for toying conventional oils as much or just curious?

    i'm also curious
     
  9. Nov 3, 2023 at 1:52 PM
    #9
    surfponto

    surfponto [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I used Ravenol synthetic in the rear diff per a recommendation. No complaints.
    Crazy how pricey the GL-4 fluids are. Was originally going to try Toyota but it was $90 a liter
     
  10. Nov 3, 2023 at 2:04 PM
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    HighIronHooligan

    HighIronHooligan TW Misfit

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    MT-90
     
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  11. Nov 3, 2023 at 2:15 PM
    #11
    bcmbcmbcm

    bcmbcmbcm Well-Known Member

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    I just switched to MT90 at 18K miles. I swear it is a tad better than stock. But then again it is likely all in my head.
    I don't think it is going to matter too much. 25k is likely a decent interval. Lots of Amsoil fans out there but I am not interested in the membership. Ravenol I hear is good but there are minimums to qualify for the shipping. The MT90 can be had on Amazon with a subscribe and save discount and I will add a quart every once in a while when I am low on items to qualify for the max discount.

    In the end, I like using premium fluids, but I also know it probably won't matter.
     
    surfponto[OP] likes this.
  12. Nov 3, 2023 at 2:53 PM
    #12
    joba27n

    joba27n YotaWerx Authorized tuner

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    In terms of quality over time and in various vehicles spec-ing different fluids, i've found acdelco syncromesh to shift the nicest regardless of spec. However by 20'000kms it feels like the fluid is depleted of the pixie magic and ready to be changed again.

    (I don't use syncromesh in this vehicle because even driving on the highway for a while warms it to the point of getting slightly grindy between gears, plus I tow/haul often which would make it worse)

    i've settled on amsoil(because with the amount I drive and with prices and fluid stock near me I'm presently 2 years ahead on free membership and with the exception of motor oil it's cheaper than me buying in town) I find that depending on how much towing/hauling I do during the interval it's usually near the 80'000km mark that the shifting starts to noticeably degrade and require changing. In turn at 80'000kms I just change the whole drive line and power steering fluid to keep my intervals easy.

    Honestly in my experience with other vehicles, yet viscosity and spec make a difference of course but for manual transmission I feel like the change interval makes a bigger difference than brand if you use the specified fluid. So in this case a 75w-90 gl4 gear lube. If I could get other brands of above mentioned lube nearby for cheaper then i'd jump ship from amsoil in a heartbeat.

    I've never had a part failure from lube when using the proper spec and I feel changing it on time makes a bigger difference to the longevity of the component than brand unless you excess the recommended maintenance interval
     
    surfponto[OP] likes this.
  13. Feb 14, 2024 at 9:40 AM
    #13
    OZ TRD

    OZ TRD Well-Known Member

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    Just to add another data point here.
    I recently did my Manual Gearbox fluid change with the Amsoil MT Fluid 75W-90.

    I was a bit early (@20k mi) since it is the first replacement post factory. - Found it in stock at Napa Auto. I bought one of the 3 needed in the bag container (Which I then re-used with the fluids to fill my front diff and transfer case...)

    I find that the feel with it is oddly a bit notchier than the factory fill. This was a bit of a disappointment. I guess I expected a buttery smoothness...
    I probably have 50 miles on it so far. I'll give it a few report back. I may try the MT 90 next time.



    upload_2024-2-14_9-26-39.png
     
  14. Feb 14, 2024 at 10:06 AM
    #14
    BLtheP

    BLtheP Constantly Tinkering Member

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    Full synthetic anything for me has always been notchier. Have personally never understood the hype.

    :crapstorm:
     
  15. Feb 14, 2024 at 2:24 PM
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    Jackie Moon

    Jackie Moon Well-Known Member

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    What options are there for conventional? Is 75W-90 always synthetic cause a quick google search produces nothing conventional with that rating. I’m curious!
     
  16. Feb 14, 2024 at 3:00 PM
    #16
    BLtheP

    BLtheP Constantly Tinkering Member

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    Not a whole lot. 75W-90 is basically always synthetic, except Ravenol does offer a semi-synthetic. I ran that for a while and it worked quite well. I think it mostly has to do with synthetics being a bit thinner when cold for the same warm viscosity as conventional.

    I run Driven 80W-90 GL4 and I have used Sta-Lube 85W-90. Being 90 weight they do work well when hot, the sta-lube could be a bit grindy when cold. For whatever reason the synthetics felt notchy to me regardless of temp. Not all the time, but a lot of the time. Part of it is probably just the transmission and timing of the shifts, but I find that I like the Driven best overall, so that's what I run. In extreme cold it's a bit notchy for the first mile or so. In extreme hot, it can't be beat.

    I ran the Motorcraft full synthetic in my truck for a little while and wasn't a big fan. However, I recently tried it in a friend's truck with the B&M short shifter, and had no complaints there. I think the short throw makes it harder to feel fluid differences because of how tight the shifter becomes.
     
    Jackie Moon[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Feb 14, 2024 at 4:10 PM
    #17
    Jackie Moon

    Jackie Moon Well-Known Member

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    Awesome detailed reply, thank you! I see you’re down in TX, up here in CO I’m not sure I want the shifts any stiffer in our colder winters though, and we don’t get heat like you do. I suppose I could always try at the next fluid change and just change back if I don’t like it.
     
  18. Feb 14, 2024 at 4:22 PM
    #18
    BLtheP

    BLtheP Constantly Tinkering Member

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    Out of what I tried, I’d say the Ravenol semi-synthetic was probably the best for Jack-of-all duty. Wasn’t bad in cold, still very good when warm.

    What I have certainly isn’t “bad” in cold either, it got down to like 5ish degrees here a few weeks ago and it was fine. Just have to be more deliberate and shift slow for a few minutes. But if you’re putting around in town a lot and not really warming up much, it’s not ideal. The stuff I have definitely does its best work in warm conditions.
     
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  19. Feb 14, 2024 at 4:41 PM
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    OZ TRD

    OZ TRD Well-Known Member

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    Great insight...

    I wonder what they use at the factory. I spend quite some time in the mountains. All above 20F unless something unusual is going on... (and I am usually NOT htere then!) - But summer is mostly warm, but with only a handful of days above 90F.

    @BLtheP - you say "Driven 80W-90 GL4 conventional as my favorite." Do you think it is the higher viscosity that contributes to smoothness? Or do you give Credit to the conventional 'natural' Dino juice*.

    I may follow your lead on the next change...

    * - I am not averse to running All-natural, genuine, 'organic' Dino juice - I still use 20w50 Dino extract (i believe it comes with some 'Pulp') in my old mini cooper which uses the same 8-quarts of oil in the pan to simultaneously lube the engine AND the transmission. (Rendering synthetics sort of out of the question...)
     
  20. Feb 14, 2024 at 4:48 PM
    #20
    BLtheP

    BLtheP Constantly Tinkering Member

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    Yeah I’m not sure. Since we can’t actually find any fluid sold by Toyota, I doubt we’ll ever know. I’d say any summer whether mildly warm or Satan’s breath is fine. It’s anywhere from 30-70 here right now and mine’s working well.

    As for the conventional vs synthetic, I don’t really know. A lot of people use full synthetics and rave about them, but synthetic is almost
    the only option available. It’s not very scientific but it does seem like when doing a drain and fill, conventional seems to “cling” to the metal a bit more. The synthetics are kind of watery and drip right off the aluminum case. So maybe they (conventional/mineral oils) coat and stick to the internals better? I honestly don’t know.

    Hah, I’m not averse to thicker stuff. I ran 140W for a while. Now THAT was thick. And it actually ran dang good in the summer, but it was unnecessarily thick and it didn’t work great at anything cooler than warm. I use conventional in pretty much any gear box if I can get it and usually a synthetic blend in engines.
     

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