Question on replacing the cylinder head 2.7L

I thought of that but trust me, a 0.040" just does not exist anywhere for the 2tr. At this point I think I'm just gonna get it resurfaced and reassemble like normal.

Dropped it off at the machinist today he said he same thing FLP just said. 0.020" is pretty standard, an economy engine won't even notice, the tensioner will just take the slack.

 

Cometic could make you one to that thickness, but yeah if it was me I’d, probably get the .030” gasket and just reassemble with that to get it a little closer. I don’t think you’re going to have any issues, like you said the tensioner has some adjustment.

 

I am an expert, and work with experts, in all various shops. We re-use headbolts on Toyotas.

Arm chair warriors are out in full force.

 

You have no clue whatsoever. Move along.

 

I have the 2.7L on my 08. I had a valve burn on me about a couple months ago. I went with a reputable shop in my area and they replaced the burned valve and pressure tested everything along with adjusting everything into spec. Was about $390 out the door to get it rebuilt. I purchased a fel-pro kit that had all gaskets in it along with new headbolts. My truck runs great now. I'd replace everything you can with quality stuff since many things will need to come off to get that head worked on.

 

Nobody said you didn't re-use them. Nobody said you CAN'T re-use them. What we ARE saying is that you SHOULDN'T reuse them because there is an inherent risk of failure, and it's just not worth the risk on a $60 part. Not sure what kind of "armchair" warriors you are referring to, but I can only speak for myself. I have more experience and expertise in the field than a large number of people here. I'm not sure what your experience level is, as I wasn't giving any disparaging remarks towards people. Personally I spent 30 years with GM as a technician, as well as an instructor for GM teaching all manner of auto mechanics from all skill levels. I have also owned and operated my own shop for several years. I have had my Master ASE certification for over 25 years, and am also an ASE parts specialist, and ASE certified service writer.

All of that aside, as I mentioned, nobody is saying you can't or don't do it this way or not. But since there IS a risk of a head bolt issue, we don't understand why you would risk it over a part that cost $60.

 

Will this engine be boosted by the owner? Yes/No? Yes > get ARP head studs. No > You're in there so why not replace them with new OEM (or similar), unless you have a set of calipers to measure the stretch, compared to virgin head bolts.

Here is a fun watch.
https://youtu.be/VlfVt1wqr40

 

Look what came out today. I have not watched it at the tike of this posting.

https://youtu.be/0b2B6AUzYtw

 

UPDATE: so I got the head machined, guy said he only had to take 0.007" off, and he pressure checked it. While he was doing that, I went ahead and just pulled the whole block out of the truck. Pulled the pistons, 2 and 3 were scored and pistons were cooked, so I cleaned up the pistons, replaced the rings, and honed the cylinders, got it back together and everything felt good. Reassembled the whole engine, put it back in the truck, cranked the engine and it still sounds like I have no damn compression. I didn't measure the block for flatness but It "looked flat against the head. I triple checked my timing, did everything by the book, literally. I'm gonna make autozone find me a leakdown tester tomorrow, but if my guess is correct about no compression, does anyone have any other ideas before I tear it back apart and throw it off a cliff? I would much rather just put a junkyard engine in at this point but literally no one has one, so I'm stuck with this piece of garbage

 

So you stated that the "pistons were cooked" and you "honed the cylinders". Did you check the cylinder walls for condition? Did you correctly position the rings on the piston? Those would be my first two questions. After that is answered, then I would say the easiest thing to do would be to pull the valve cover and slowly hand rotate the engine. Each cylinder I would check for at least SOME free play on the rockers for each cylinder. You have to get the piston at the correct location on the compression stroke for that cylinder. The rockers should have some "wiggle" to them. If they are under load, then they may not be shimmed correctly. You should have at least SOME compression if they are properly closed.

 

To me it's a case of the cheap can come out expensive. For what you have in time and money riding on those bolts, I would just go new. Worst case you bought $60 worth peace of mind.

 

Depends on what you mean by "condition". There was some buildup near the top of cylinders 2 and 3 but I was able to scrape most of it off before honing. Other than they they were all just glazed. Only thing I didn't do was actually measure for roundness, but I did do a the fluid test, put brake cleaner in each cylinder and see how long it takes to drain. Cyl 3 took about 20 minutes but the rest were solid, so I figured the walls were good, unless the rings just warped to the walls?

I know I got all the rings right, and gap was well within spec.

I'm gonna pull the valve cover just to double check timing and do what you said, but if the rockers end up under load, can they even be shimmed? I thought lifters just set themselves? I also did replace all exhaust lifters because they were rock solid.

I did do a compression test and got 60,40,30,60, which is not nothing, but does correlate to which cylinders were bad.

 

Well ignore everything I just said. Just did a "leakdown" test with the loaner compression tester, and when I pump air into each cylinder, I get air out of every other spark plug hole, so the block is warped. I don't know why I didn't check, I just said "jUsT tHe aLlUmInUm wArPeD, tHe iRoN bLoCk sHoULd bE fiNe" but of course I'm a moron, which has been well established by now. At least teardown should take half as long.

 

That is really weird.

 

How so?

 

The 2.7 liter has hydraulic lash adjusters, no shims or adjustment needed. If the lash adjuster is jammed and not working then they need to be replaced.

 

You are right. The newer 2.7 has hydraulic lash adjusters. I keep forgetting the 1st gens were the only 2.7 that had the shims.

Before you crater the engine, consider this: While it would be a pain in the ass, take the head back off and check the head gasket and then the block for flatness. Blocks can be decked as well. Having air come out of the other spark plug holes isn't a 100% confirmed bad block issue.

 

I mean wouldn't that really only apply if the head gasket wasn't new? That or I just got a bunk gasket, but I've never heard of fel-pro doing something like that.

 

Won't know until you dive back in there.