Questions about old man emu lift kit

I’m interested in lifting my Tacoma. I’ve been looking around for a bit and I found the old man emu lift kit sport kit heavy and light. My first question is what is the difference between the light and the heavy kit. I assumed that it was load capacity, correct me if I’m wrong. Second question if u buy either of these kits will I need to purchase UCA’s and LCA’s or other parts. Last question, are these kits good for that price for an all around kit?

 

Use their suspension selector: https://oldmanemu.com.au/old-man-emu-suspension-selector/

The heavy duty kit will be for those with custom front bumpers and/or winch additions - the HD kit uses a beefier spring. Since their estimated lift is less than 2.5", these can be installed with no other suspension upgrades. Don't know about cost; you'll have to shop and compare. Most of us get their springs and mix/match with Bilstein components.

 

Alright, I live in the u.s. does that selector work for u.s.

 

yes

 

Cool

 

OME kits are a long-lasting, relatively inexpensive, and convenient option. That said, I'd check out other manufacturers to make sure that you're getting exactly what you want. Bilstein and Dobinsons are two near-equivalents that have different characteristics (i.e. shock valving) but are similar in price.

@Chuy is spot-on comparing the differences between the OME heavy and light kits. I'd like to add a few considerations for problems you *might* encounter during the lift install or immediately afterwards.

LCAs: There is a (reported) 25% chance that your LCA alignment hardware will be seized, which will require new alignment hardware and likely new LCAs. A full replacement for both LCAs will cost about $750 if you buy new OEM parts, which are highly recommended over aftermarket LCAs like Dorman or Moog.
UCAs: Aftermarket high caster UCAs will help you correct any alignment/"bump steer" issues present after installing your lift. The general rule is, for front end lifts under 2.5", aftermarket UCAs aren't necessary.
Driveline vibrations: Lifted vehicles have altered drivetrain geometry, which can cause vibration issues. These problems can be fixed with the addition of a carrier bearing drop kit and/or axle shims, which are inexpensive but essential to preserving driveshaft u-joint longevity. There are more expensive options - like single-piece driveshafts - that require less experimentation.
Front diff needle bearing: Problems with this bearing tend to manifest as another type of driveline vibration. The only fix is installing the ECGS bushing, P/N T8CS-BUSHING.
CV angles: Excessively high CV angles are a bad thing. These can be fixed with special high-angle CV boots (from Offroad Solutions) or complete remanufactured CV axles (from CVJ). Differential drop kits don't make an appreciable difference and expose the front diff to damage, so they are not recommended.

More things to think about here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/stuff-that-breaks-after-installing-a-lift.667252/

 

Thanks for the input! I thought that because the lift was 2.5in and under I didn’t need to worry about all that other stuff?

 

Each vehicle behaves a little differently. While most people report that they don't have these issues, it's good to have a little extra knowledge in case something weird happens.

 

Alright thanks I’ll keep that in mind

 

I had an OME 2.5 LIGHT lift on my 2011 FJ. I went light because I wasn't going with a steel bumper or winch, I went with a DO Aluminum bumper. The ride was good and it did the job when we went to Rausch Creek Off Road Park, handled all the trails I did except BLACK, and thats because I never did a BLACK trail. Didn't need to replace my LCA's but I did go for an alignment like most other people have suggested. Any time you make a change like this its pretty much mandatory. One thing I will say on the negative side it the shocks RUST LIKE CRAZY at the bottom mounting location. Stay on top of them and you'll be ok.

 

Alright thanks, how do you suggest stoping the rust?

 

Fluid Film aerosol spray works for the frame, so it would probably do the trick here.

 

Alright thanks

 

So I'm looking at the OME EK2301A1, which I think is the kit referenced.
To my basic knowledge, if the longer springs provide the lift, won't that limit downtravel? I mean the suspension can only move so far down, right?
Also, if you go over something that produces a lot of uptravel, won't that cause the suspension to cycle up just as far as it normally would as there are no extended bump stops, and wouldn't that stuff your larger tires causing them to rub?