Questions for Ray10 Owners

Love my ray10s. Chips were caused by me. -39 offset on mine and you absolutely get a spray pattern on the sides but it just builds character

 

Aren’t they made in Thailand.....

 

I would say that lugnuts will rust first which look horrible with nice rims. Look into rexgen or rokblokz if you worry about door splatter.

 

This is the first ive ever heard of someone complaining about scs. They have been flawless for me and tons others. Dont preech this third world stuff cuz more than half the shit around you is from some other country. Are you one of those guys who just pays the markup and calls it american?

 

Just be ready for the fake rock rings to meet the rocks if you take your truck off road . Mine are no longer mall rated, but black touch up paint is cheap,

 

40K miles on my Ray10's, been on the truck for about 3 years now. No issues with the paint, rusting etc. Still look brand new, would buy again.

 

Thank you, all, for the responses. Glad to hear that most are satisfied.

 

Love your setup. Mind sharing the details of your lift, tire size, rubbing, etc??? Thanks

 

there’s a clear plastic protective sticker covering the center cap logo looks like it’s still on yours

 

Naw, took it off back in 2017 when I bought the wheels.

 

Good looking truck....I also love the access cabs.

 

There are many different alloys that fall under the general designation of "stainless steel" The rule of thumb being if the alloy is 50% or more iron it's stainless steel, and if it is 50% iron that means it's in the highest grade group. Most commonly used SS are about 70-80% iron. I would offer an educated guess that the SCS lug nuts and fake bead lock bolts are SS304, which is good quality. SS304 is in the 18/8 group (18% chrome 8% nickel 70ish % iron and some minor additions - carbon, silicon etc)

ALL STAINLESS STEEL RUSTS. The difference is how long it resists and in what environment. SS304 will rust quickly when exposed to corrosive salts. Replace all your lugs and bolts with SS330 and they will hold up very well against salt spray. They will be 3 to 5 times the cost of SS304. Replace SS304 with Inconel 625 and they will never rust, ever. They will be 15 to 20 times more expensive than SS304 bolts.

Full disclosure: I have SCS Ray 10s, I have no issues with them. My lugs/bolts show no signs of corrosion, I try to keep them halfway clean but am not the anal polish everything guy. I don't live near salt water.

 

the -12 offset doesn't stick that far out. I don't get too many rocks kicking up

 

Some of this really makes me doubt my plan. I’ve been down this road before and swore I was going to leave this truck alone. However, the mod bug has bitten me and I, once again, find myself contemplating aftermarket wheels and a lift. Sometimes it’s hard to beat the factory equipment quality and how it’s all designed to work together in relative harmony. They just look so good with a slight lift & a beefier wheel/tire combination.

 

I have successfully removed rust on painted wheels using rust remover spray from the local hardware store. A lot of folks in FL with wells for irrigation have rust stains on their homes, landscape, and hardscapes due to iron in the water. Spray it on, let it sit a few minutes, wipe it off, and the rust will be gone.

As for the where it comes from.... Stainless steel contains iron, and as a result, can still rust. There are various levels of chromium in it to help prevent this, but depending on the type of stainless used (420, 440, 455, 465, 303, etc) these ratios vary. Stainless steel also needs to be passivated after it is manufactured. This process uses (typically) citric acid to remove free iron from the surface layer of the material, thus lowering the risk of the material rusting. Any nicks, scratches, etc into the stainless parts can expose a non-passivated layer which can rust easier. That would be my guess on the lug nuts.... unless the rust is coming from the wheel studs.

 

I love my ray 10s. They’ve held up awesome and I thought about different wheels but the way I’ve seen them taken a beating on trails and on rocks, I’m good with how they look for what I paid. I’d feel horrible if I bought some $2300 wheels (like Volk TE-37s) and then rashed them up.

I only have about 10k on the wheels and tires and the truck is garaged in Southern California, so take my opinion vs. your salted PA roads lightly.

**edit*** I have no clear coat issues and I’ve since added rear mud guards (rekgen regular sized) with 285/70/17s ko2s. Unless I’m in snow or mud they don’t spray my rear truck bed (see example below in muddier conditions off road)...sorry this is not the same size tires as what you’re going for. Hope it helps in some way...

In the end, it all comes down to what you want out of it for your money spent.

 

Could you comment on how good/poor of a job your mud guards do or don’t do protecting the sides of your truck from the negative offset “overspray” of the Ray10s?

I live down a mile long dirt lane that is covered in 2B limestone and I’m trying to decide if it’s worth running wheels with these specs. Thank you

 

Two Midwest winters & mine still look new. No balance issues. Spray is more down side of truck but doesn’t bother me. 10/10 would buy again.

 

Looks like the plastic protector is still on the center cap and peeling, discoloring. I removed those when I got mine and they’ve held up perfectly.

 

Thats encouraging to hear. Your truck looks great. What size tire are you running? Do you think if you were running mud guards that the side spray would be significantly reduced or not?