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R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need help thanks.

Discussion in 'Motorcycles' started by Sunner, Feb 25, 2012.

  1. Feb 25, 2012 at 5:13 PM
    #1
    Sunner

    Sunner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    We were doing an oil change/coolant flush on my buddies bike and ran into a problem. Ill try to keep this short and to the point
    [​IMG]


    What you are looking at in the above picture is an elbow that goes into the bottom of the crankcase of the bike, it is a part of the oil cooling system. We were in a situation which required us to remove this elbow. See diagram below now.

    [​IMG]

    The part that has the blue circle is the above pictured elbow, the blue circle is where it goes into the crankcase, so that is where the crankcase wall is. The elbow goes into the yellow circled thingamajig(waterpump?) which as you can see has two o-rings, that is all inside the crankcase. When we pulled the elbow, we might have pulled out the 2nd red circled o-ring off since only the 1st one was on there(The coolant was flushed prior and there was no oil in the crankcase when we pulled the elbow), we reasembled the elbow thinking that the 2nd o-ring must be in the yellow circled part, long story short the oil became milky after running it a couple minutes, we think that the 2nd 0-ring fell off and now there is water entering the crankcase.


    Our solution is to drop the oil pan and just clean everything and see if the ring is there. Anything else that we need to look for? Any tips or suggestions? Do we need to get to the head to clean the valvetrain too since the contaminated oil made its way up there too? I hope I am as clear as possible but please let me know if I need to clarify and thank you.
     
  2. Feb 25, 2012 at 5:18 PM
    #2
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Rear leaf spring tsb 5000 miles, w ac fan 26k miles, windshield creaking 28k miles- not warranty. Bad upper idler pulleys 32k miles- not warranty, Toyota Quality!

    sounds like a good place to start looking. maybe pull the clutch cover off if cant find it in the oil pan.
     
  3. Feb 25, 2012 at 5:50 PM
    #3
    Sunner

    Sunner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Will do, thank you
     
  4. Feb 26, 2012 at 7:21 PM
    #4
    Sunner

    Sunner [OP] Well-Known Member

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  5. Feb 26, 2012 at 7:44 PM
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    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Rear leaf spring tsb 5000 miles, w ac fan 26k miles, windshield creaking 28k miles- not warranty. Bad upper idler pulleys 32k miles- not warranty, Toyota Quality!
    still having trouble with this?

    check the oil filter?:notsure:

    im sure there is probably some sort of R1 forum.
     
  6. Feb 26, 2012 at 7:48 PM
    #6
    KenLyns

    KenLyns Lord of War

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    The "yellow circled thingamajig" is the water pump. That's inside the crankcase???
     
  7. Feb 27, 2012 at 7:00 AM
    #7
    Sunner

    Sunner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Not having trouble with it yet, we will be doing it this saturday, I was just trying to get some tips on anything reallly before we start so nothing else goes wrong, I tried joining the R1 forum but their registration is blocked right now.

    I was pretty sure that that was the waterpump but didn't know why they would put it in the crankcase, but yup thats inside the crankcase.
     
  8. Feb 27, 2012 at 7:21 AM
    #8
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    I hate to tell you and having owned and worked on enough sport bikes your problem isnt that o-ring causing oil to get into your crank case. Most likely the head or head gasket is blown. Even if that o-ring went into the engine it would blow your water pump or just get caught/clogged in the engine blocking the flow of coolant.

    I used to race Suzuki motorcycles as well as pit for several friends who race yamaha and honda bikes. I now ride predominantly Ducati's and MV Agusta's. I used to all my own wrenching, repairs, and maint.

    Like I said, if your getting water in your oil (and from the sound of it you are) you either have a cracked/bent head or a blown head gasket. I would start with a leak down/pressure test on each cylinder and go from there. I would NOT run the engine any more or you run the risk of seriously fucking up the pistons, cylinder walls, and crank/cams.
     
  9. Feb 27, 2012 at 7:24 AM
    #9
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    No, the water pump housing and water pump sit on the lower left side of the engine. Its usually what gets damaged when you crash.
     
  10. Feb 27, 2012 at 7:35 AM
    #10
    Sunner

    Sunner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No we are pretty sure that we caused the water leak when we pulled out the part I showed above, there was no water in the oil when we first drained it, the oil only became milky after we messed with pipe going to the water pump. The headgasket is fine.

    I'll look at it again but Im pretty sure we didn't see the water pump on the outside unless it was covered by some plastic, thanks for the input
     
  11. Feb 27, 2012 at 10:31 AM
    #11
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    I could be wrong but the picture is not the same piece that is shown on the blown up drawing. The picture is of an oil pipe of some kind and the drawing is of the water impeller and the water pump housing/piping. You could have blown the seal from the impeller shaft into the crank case for how the impeller is driven.

    What led to you having to take off the oil line in the first place? There is more to this story than we are getting. Not accusing you, just want to know what else you guys did.

    Also, what year is it?
     
  12. Feb 27, 2012 at 10:40 AM
    #12
    Sunner

    Sunner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The picture and diagram are of the same thing I'm sure of it, its not an oil line, thats a coolant line that runs to the water pump, which I am pretty sure is in the crankcase. The bike is a 2003 R1

    The reason that we had to remove it is because we snapped the coolant drain bolt while tighting it(which is the black bolt in the 1st pic). We removed it and tapped the bolt with a drill to get it out. All of this mess over one snapped bolt.
     
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