Rack & Pinion question: I am confused

Thank you, I will attempt to do more research. The video you mention does not include information on adjustment. The video gives information on replacement of the guide only. How would you detect if adjustment is needed or a solution and if that is the case what would I adjust?

 

Watch the video again, within the first 5 minutes they show from the service manual how to adjust it. Basically you loosen the big locknut and torque the big Allen cap to 18 foot lb and then back it off 19 degrees. You can play around a little bit with this, if it’s still feels loose go a little tighter if the steering feels stiff try a little looser.

 

Oh I ok I did see that. I didn't realize that this was the actual adjustment, I thought the adjustment was something you did inside... So its literally just adjusting those things. Interesting....

 

Be careful with that adjustment. It only takes a little to throw it all out of whack (@eon_blue may have a comment about adjusting the steering rack guide 'nut').

Personally, I'd look at replacing your steering rack bushings first. After that, look at the inner and outer ties. Are they original?

I was experiencing alot of 'clunk' going over bumps at speed. Had about 150k or so on it. Ended up replacing rack bushings, inner/outer ties, lower ball joints (yes, toyota had replaced them under recall previously). Made a huge difference. After that ended up replacing coilovers along with rear suspension and obvious day and night difference. Not saying you need to do all of that just passing on what I ended up doing.

Whatever you do, make sure you take it in for an alignment after doing any front end work.

Tim's videos are awesome and here are a few more to reference -

https://youtu.be/4lSj8WMKfEs

*Say NO to the BFH method of breaking loose your outer tie rod

https://youtu.be/AVQHgcXEhpE

If you do decide to they need to be replaced and you'll do the work yourself...
https://youtu.be/qaQCb894F_M

 

Is there a way to do the bushings without having to take off the whole rack?? I've seen a bushing kit that has a split in it.. Are those worth trying. Its just a lot of labor to change out the bushings. Might as well switch everything out while I'm at it.

 

Did you watch the video about changing the rack bushings above? Timmy has a video as well: https://youtu.be/YywcR0E9bM4

It's easy to do as long as you have the right size wrenches, and some patience for the small vertical bolt. The large bushing is always "split" as you say. You don't have to remove the rack completely from the truck - the power steering connections do not need to be undone. The rack is bolted on three locations, the large D-shaped bushing on the passenger side, a large horizontal bolt on the driver, and one smaller vertical mid-span bolt.

I've changed these bushings twice.. once a long time ago, and again more recently when I did my lower control arm bushings (cause you have to loosen the rack enough to get the cams out). Go slow and you'll be fine.

 

I recently replaced a good amount of my front end 6112s, LCA, cam bolts, inner and outer tie rod ends, and all the rusted nuts and bolts holding them together With all OEM gear (not 6112 obviously) I purchased all of my gear from https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/. Without any issues. I was able to talk via email to there service tech and ask the questions I needed and was a lot of help. They sell to the public at dealer cost. Check them out

 

been experiencing some pretty bad steering symptoms. Would y’all consider this excessive play? Thinking about changing the bushings or maybe even the whole rack. There is a very small leak on the driver-side pinion.


https://youtu.be/sq_7GM5Zuo4

at the :15 sec mark is where I start jerking the wheel more and it moves a bit.

 

@Jdilla83194 this is a thread about 1st Gen rack bushings etc. They’re worse than the 2nd Gen design. Play wasn’t super bad but definitely more than it should be. Post a video in a new thread in the 2nd Gen area:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/2nd-gen-tacomas-2005-2015.5/ and see what the people say. If it’s leaking I’d be concerned more about that. New oem racks can be had online from good online parts dealers like Camelback or Mcgeorge or possibly one near your city that won’t charge shipping for you to pick it up after you order it online. Just search “Online Toyota Parts Dealer __________” and your city. Compare prices to find if a nearby place is less than a typically low cost reputable dealer with shipping (all online - in person parts counter prices are almost double). Also consider that oem racks come with inner tie rods and boots installed while other places may not.

 

Describe please? This can be anything in the front end.

Hard to tell, OEM rubber bushings move a little bit, I'd look at the rack itself where the bushings are to see if they are distorting or seem loose. It doesn't look that bad but hard to say, but doesn't look bad enough to exhibit "bad steering symptoms."

Have you figured out exactly from where? There are two lines, the pressure line which on a 1st gen is the one to the inside/left of the truck, and the return line, closest to the wheel. (May be different on a second gen.) The return line comes out of the rack and into a section of hose that unites it with the rest of the return line, if it's from there just clamp it and call it a day. If it's from the flare nut fittings, you may have to investigate further, use only flare nut wrenches or flare nut crowfoot wrenches if you do. Just don't over tighten them, the housing will crack and the only real fix for that is a new rack.

 

Where the rack connects to the steering shaft there is a rubber flex coupler that can wear out and create play. The bushings will flex some especially stopped turning on pavement.