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Radiator change

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by wdunnlee, Mar 3, 2025.

  1. Mar 3, 2025 at 2:56 PM
    #1
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’m changing my radiator and I’m looking for a bit of help. first of all it appears there is 2 radiators. Is this normal?
    image.jpg image.jpg
    second off
    There are 4 lines going to the radiator. 2 hard lines going to the “front radiator and 2 hoses going to the back radiator. Can someone help me label each? I already removed the upper and lower radiator hoses.
    Hard lines
    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    hoses
    image.jpg
     
  2. Mar 3, 2025 at 2:58 PM
    #2
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    The front most is your AC condenser.

    Leave it alone
     
  3. Mar 3, 2025 at 3:02 PM
    #3
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So the hoses are to the trans.
     
  4. Mar 3, 2025 at 3:08 PM
    #4
    eherlihy

    eherlihy 2009 Access Cab TRD Off Road

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    The AC Condenser and drier are mounted in front of the radiator. Do not mess with the hard lines, unless you want to recharge your AC system.

    The radiator has two ATF cooling lines that route ATF through the radiator on the left side of the vehicle. Assuming that you have an automatic, if you are replacing the radiator, then you will need to remove these two lines. After the installation of the (new?) radiator you will need to check the ATF level, and probably add ATF to the transmission.
     
  5. Mar 3, 2025 at 3:09 PM
    #5
    BrewTuna

    BrewTuna Member

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    Yes. Upper and lower radiator hoses and two transmission lines. My advice is to buy hose clamps and take them off carefully.
     
  6. Mar 3, 2025 at 3:49 PM
    #6
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well shoot, I unscrewed this cap and it sounded like a little release in pressure. Is that problem? It just sounded like a puff of air. This was before I posted because I wanted to see if there was some sort of fluid in it.

    image.jpg
     
  7. Mar 3, 2025 at 3:52 PM
    #7
    999

    999 Well-Known Member

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    If you just unscrewed the cap and not pressed the valve it should be ok.

    but that’s freon/coolant and you shouldn’t be messing with those lines on a radiator swap.
     
  8. Mar 3, 2025 at 3:52 PM
    #8
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    That's a charging port for the AC. It has a shrader valve in the fitting. The cap is to keep it clean
     
  9. Mar 3, 2025 at 3:52 PM
    #9
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    The plastic cap may have a little pressure under it but the schrader valve below it is holding the actual system pressure inside. Don't vent the a/c refrigerant to the atmosphere, you need a service machine to do it properly

    You should be able to separate the ac condenser from the frame and lean it forward to get some room to remove the radiator
     
    winkel and MalinoisDad like this.
  10. Mar 3, 2025 at 3:58 PM
    #10
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Peter603Taco and JasonT87 like this.
  11. Mar 3, 2025 at 4:02 PM
    #11
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Didn’t press the valve
     
  12. Mar 3, 2025 at 4:03 PM
    #12
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have the fan shroud and fan off to give me some room behind it.
     
  13. Mar 3, 2025 at 4:42 PM
    #13
    eherlihy

    eherlihy 2009 Access Cab TRD Off Road

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    You see the "H" on that cap? That means HIGH pressure side of the compressor. There is another one in the engine compartment that should have an "L" on it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2025
  14. Mar 3, 2025 at 4:47 PM
    #14
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have everything off, anyone have any idea on idler pulleys? The bottom on feels bonded up and the top two have some good resistance too. Shouldn’t they spin freely? And what about the tensioner, should I replace that too?
     
  15. Mar 3, 2025 at 5:07 PM
    #15
    BrewTuna

    BrewTuna Member

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    Couldn’t hurt. New belt too. Tensioner is a PITA to get to. I ended up just replacing the tensioner pulley for now.
     
    skee likes this.
  16. Mar 3, 2025 at 5:09 PM
    #16
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Belt is 5k miles old, I thought I checked the idlers then and they were all good… I did get it pretty dirty since then though.
     
  17. Mar 3, 2025 at 5:12 PM
    #17
    BrewTuna

    BrewTuna Member

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    Anytime I’m doing work with the belt and adding new resistance (like pulleys, alternator, etc), I’ll change the belt. It’s a $30 part. Probably unnecessary, but I have almost 275k on my truck and don’t take chances.
     
  18. Mar 3, 2025 at 5:17 PM
    #18
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Any good ones on rock auto? I’m getting gates idlers.
     
  19. Mar 3, 2025 at 8:08 PM
    #19
    skee

    skee Well-Known Member

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    I used gates pulleys and bando belt from rockauto about 1.5 years ago, no issues.
     
    wdunnlee[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  20. Mar 4, 2025 at 8:22 AM
    #20
    knottyrope

    knottyrope Well-Known Member

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    if that deep in there, replace what you can now

    idler pulleys should spin free with no bind or rough spots
     

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