Radio Not Working When Cold

I'm having an issue with my factory radio when it's below freezing. The radio seems to lock up in varying degrees and at times will do nothing. Not sure if it is tied to using a USB drive to play music or not. There are times the radio doesn't seem to recognize the drive (also when cold), but pulling it out and reinserting resolves this issue.

Anyone else experiencing this, and if so, how did you resolve these issues?

 

mine has a mind of its own

sometimes turns on at random times and makes for a good conversation at a drive through while AxCx is blasting

an American grindcore band from Newton, Massachusetts.
Cant post name of band. LOL

 

I don’t work well in the cold either.

mine resets randomly a few times a month.

 

That’s funny because mine did the exact opposite. It would randomly turn off and stop working on hot summer days. The hotter the day the less it’d work until the AC cooled the cab off and then it’s be fine. I used it as an excuse to upgrade to a kenwood head unit.

My guess was that the heating caused something to expand and make a connection not quite make contact. Totally a guess though.

 

Mine had issue with screen colors being inverted. I started a post (with pic) but no one else really had the problem...

Long story short, replaced it under warranty but it was a bear. They sent a Toyota tech out to "verify" with dealership it really needed replacing, and gave a rental car in the process. A rental car for a radio problem. So basically, that radio or the labor associated (or both) might be expensive...

 

BS the radio is a 30 min job. The radio clips in and the plug ins are like playing circles and squares. Virtually impossible to get them wrong. Sounds like the Tech was pulling a fast one on his boss. Billing him 2hrs for a 30 min adventure. That’s why their nickname Steeler ships

 

Hi everyone. Anyone ever turn a 2nd gen. Base 4x4 with a stock rear diff into a stock diff w lockers. I believe the stock rear diff w/o lockers is a 8 and the stock diff w lockers is a 8.4 If I’m understanding this correctly the difference between the two is that the diff w lockers has ticker gears but the gearing ratio is the same as the stock diff w/o the lockers. Is this correct? My question is why bother with the 8.4 I would install a locker in the 8 and call it a day.Has anybody done this?

 

PC boards and electrical solder expand and shrink according to changes in temperature in different amounts. Extreme temperatures on either end of the normal temperature spectrum will crack solder joints over time. If the problem is found early enough just reheating the solder with an iron will fix the problem. If the problem is ignored for a long period of time the solder will need to be removed, the contact points cleaned of corrosion, and resoldered. The most difficult aspect of the job is finding which solder joints are cracked. Cracks can usually be seen with a quality magnifying glass but not always.

Switche contact points within the switches are also adversely affected by extreme changes in temperature. Rotary switches are by far the worse culprits but push button switches can also be affected. Electronic parts cleaner spray will usually repair most switches. Give the cleaner time to evaporate prior to using the equipment.

High humidity areas can also adversely affect electronics by causing corrosion.

Most modern power window/lock switches have their electrical connections within the switch held together by rivets. Corrosion can occur in these connections fairly easily.

Lastly not all solder is created equal. GM products from the 1970's to present day use notoriously poor solder. With the increase in costs of solder, pencil pushers making decisions within corporations, most newer electronics use solder of a lesser quality than in the past.

 

Great post right to the point,Lam.