Raleigh North Carolina and surrounding areas

Also ordered this last night to make making the flat bed less tedious
https://www.ebay.com/p/FEIN-72905361120-Slugger-14-In-Metal-Cutting-CHOP-Saw/710107183

 

37x12.5x17

 

I won’t let you in unless there are beers

 

That's my next step in tires. I've got the cab mount relocate sitting waiting to get welded on. After the chevy 63 swap I'll be saving for gears and lockers. Then it's tire time!

 

I did the Redgoat Fab Cab Mount relocate last weekend. Along with a 1” body lift and poly body bushings.

I considered making the cab mount relocate, but for $90, it was easier to just buy it and weld it on.

I ordered the relocate that was meant for a 1” body lift. I ended up using the puck anyway though. If I ever want to take the BL out, or put more in, I figured it would be easier if it’s all the same.

 

I have the same relocate. So it still needed a puck to get the 1" BL. I made my own BL and have the poly bushings as well.

 

Doesn’t need the puck. It’s up to you how high you weld it on. I just opted to use the pucks. I figured it would make future changes (although, I’m hoping to never change the BL) easier.

 

I was surprised how much the cab sags without the center body mount in place. It holds a lot more weight than I was expecting.

 

Got ya yeah that seems like what I want to do. When I ordered the relocates and asked about the difference I got a vague answer. Something along the lines of yes the are different and you'll need the the 1"BL ones if you want to do a BL. That was all they said and I asked what the difference was.

 

What do you mean by this? My Pass side body mount is shot and the front pinch is touching my sliders a tiny bit.

 

Same here. The originals were meant for a 3” BL. I guess you had to chop some off if not doing 3”.

I think there’s just less material the less BL you’re running.

 

My body mounts were still fine. Only the rad support bushings were shot. I changec them all only because I was already in there.

When I let the cab down after cutting that mid body mount off, the cab sunk way more than I was expecting. That’s all.

 

Ah I got ya now. I don't know when I'll do the relocate. Do you think you'll need to tub the firewall any with the 1"BL? I know not BL'd guys are having to tub the firewall a bit.

 

I’m thinking I will. Just waiting on the wheels to arrive so I can see exactly what needs to be done.

@Paint6it9black is running 37s on 1” BL and didn’t tub.

We shall see I guess.

 

That's kinda what I am thinking. I am looking at some different wheels as well. Was kicking around going with some beadlocks but have since kind of backed away from that idea for now.

 

@ovrlndkull

If you’re doing lockers, I’d suggest staying away from ARB. Both of mine have leaked through the seals and pressurized my diffs.

Everyone I know with an ARB has had the same issue as a matter of fact.

I know there’s a selectable E-locker option now. @Sub-Zero put one in his front diff. Not a crappy “E-locker” like the OEM one either. A true electro-magnet locker.

I’m waiting on a rear Dana 60 right now from ECGS. I went with an OX locker in that. I’m over ARB at this point.

Next time my front ARB Leaks, I’m dumping that as well.

 

I'm looking at a lunchbox or eaton style for the rear and then a selectable of sorts for the front which ARB is the only one that I knew of. I know there are some guys who have had really good success with ARB

 

Limited slip and locker are 2 different things if it says locker I assume its a locker unless there is some really shitty and con type advertising.

 

OX lockers can be actuated by air, electric, or cable. I went with air since I already have air. There are no seals inside to leak like an ARB though.

You can also lock an OX by manually inserting a pin, say if I ripped out an air line.

It’s not an option for our factory diffs however.

Yup. ARB was the only option for a selectable locker when I did mine. I’m not sure of the brand for the E-locker, but @Sub-Zero got his from ECGS.

 

I'll look into it. I'm thinking future rear diff upgrade and was looking at the newer tundra 10.5 diffs but the only locker option for them is the ARB or an Auburn LS. Not a fan of the clutch style LS or LS for that matter in offroading. I'll look into the 9.5 tundra rear and maybe even the turd gen e locker since it's essentiallly an 8.8