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Rate my Frame - How should I treat it?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by VonHaga, May 1, 2021.

  1. May 1, 2021 at 5:46 PM
    #21
    VonHaga

    VonHaga [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Those areas are the main regions of my concern. I'm going to unearth the CRC and I'll post back on what I find underneath!
     
    Mastiffsrule[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. May 1, 2021 at 5:49 PM
    #22
    VonHaga

    VonHaga [OP] Well-Known Member

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  3. May 1, 2021 at 5:55 PM
    #23
    VonHaga

    VonHaga [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I agree on this. I want to say goodbye to the CRC so I know what is underneath so it can be dealt with now. Thanks for the info! I'll likely follow a similar process.

    Still tied between POR 15 and Chassis Saver. Chassis saver and Eastwood seem so much easier to apply - but overall less durable than POR-15.
     
  4. May 2, 2021 at 3:41 AM
    #24
    FRE1809

    FRE1809 Well-Known Member

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    I'll post what works for me. I hose down the frame in the spring a couple of times.I wire wheel the rust and hand brush for those hard to reach areas. I use Ospho for neutralizing the rust (x2), Eastwood primer (x2 coats), Eastwood black chassis paint ( x2 coats) and Amsoil heavy duty Metal Protector (x2 coats). Inside the frame I use Eastwood internal frame protector buy the extension wand with the 360 deg. spray pattern. I also use the Amsoil spray for the gas tank straps, the steel transmission cooler lines coming out to of the transmission and the same lines underneath the flywheel.

    BTW frame looks decent for a truck from the rust belt. I'm 8 years in on the frame maintenance each year I spend less and less time on it I have build up a decent layer of protectant on it. You are going to need ( 2P) patience and preparation for the surface. USN adage ( 6P) Proper planning prevents piss poor performance. Frame maintenance is mandatory on these Toyota trucks that deal with snow and brine . GL
     
    VonHaga[OP] and Too Stroked like this.
  5. May 2, 2021 at 5:41 AM
    #25
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    Interesting recommendation and great looking truck. I do have one issue though. You're in California and they don't use road salt there. Black house paint would probably hold up in those conditions. Folks who have never lived where road salt is used have absolutely no idea how aggressively corrosive it is. And once corrosion starts, it's exceedingly difficult to stop - especially on a frame with boxed and laminated sections.

    Getting back to the OP's question, I'd suggest that your frame doesn't look bad at all for a 2006. My (fully Ziebart undercoated) 2014 didn't look much different when I recently sold it. (Yea, I live in the heart of the rust belt.) If you want my 2 cents, I'd pressure wash the built up dirt and sand off, let it dry for a week or so, then Wool Wax the whole thing - especially the box sections near the catalytic converters. You can try wire wheeling the easy to get off stuff and painting it with POR-15 first, but you'll very quickly find that access is a total PITA.
     
    VonHaga[OP] likes this.
  6. May 2, 2021 at 5:54 AM
    #26
    JAGCanada

    JAGCanada Well-Known Member

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    Lots of great suggestions here. Picking the perfect products to use is less important than actually taking time to remove the rust and protect bare metal with paint and then rustproof, repeat as required.
     
    VonHaga[OP] likes this.
  7. May 2, 2021 at 7:27 AM
    #27
    88seriesiii

    88seriesiii Well-Known Member

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    Good info.. I am about to embark on a similar task. My plan is to pressure wash, allow to dry for a while. Spot sand blast a few areas. Rusty metal primer any areas w/o a seam , black top coat then clear Fluid film all of it so it can creep in the warm weather. Then monitor for touch up. Southern Maine.
     
    VonHaga[OP] likes this.
  8. May 2, 2021 at 10:13 AM
    #28
    Mully

    Mully Well-Known Member

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    Correct, I do not live in the rust belt, but have driven through them many times in the winter, 11 different states. I still pressure wash, have to sand, wire wheel, and paint. I do agree with you and if I did live in the rust belt area, I would probably use FF or some other methods of trying to save my truck from rotting away. It doesn't matter where you live, the coating/paint is crap on these trucks, if you don't take care of them they will rot away, even in CA. Thanks for your input, take care brother.
     
  9. May 2, 2021 at 12:55 PM
    #29
    VonHaga

    VonHaga [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is solid advice! I'm definitely trying to get a good plan of action for when I dive into this project in 2 weeks. I know it's likely going to be a messy pain in the butt the first time I do it, especially with all of that CRC caked on there. I imagine it will be a 2-3 day full-time project after work at the least.

    Eastwood is appealing because they have the full line of products - prep, primer, coating, and they have internal coating stuff. I haven't heard of Ospho before but the stuff looks legit for pre-paint rust removal!
     
  10. May 2, 2021 at 1:11 PM
    #30
    VonHaga

    VonHaga [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think I'll likely do something like this! I'll decide what to apply once I get all the rust and crud off the frame, it needs to come off no matter what. Power wash and degrease the hell out of it, wire wheel, then repeat. I'll likely go with Eastwood because their rust encapsulator comes in a spray can and this will be great for touch-ups. Thanks for the advice!
     
  11. May 2, 2021 at 1:12 PM
    #31
    VonHaga

    VonHaga [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Post pictures of your before and after results and I'll do the same so we can compare!
     
  12. May 2, 2021 at 1:32 PM
    #32
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    A couple of words of advice to the OP on any kind of coating for an existing frame. (Full Disclosure: I worked in the commercial painting / plating world for many years.) The thing most folks don't understand is that simply slathering on even the best paint or coatings on an existing frame is that the actual coating is not the key to success. The real key is the prep work that comes prior to the coating. If you don't get virtually all of the corrosion off or neutralized, then properly clean, pre-treat and prime the surface prior to the actual coating, you'll get crap for results. Just like the most beautiful paint job you ever saw on a show car, the actual painting was the easier part. The weeks (or months) of prep work that came before painting was the real key to success. Hope that helps!
     
    Mully[QUOTED] and FastEddy59 like this.

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