Rate my frame.

Besides the in-service date is older than 15 years thing, here are a few other things to consider why the frame was never replaced:

1) it was never actually a "recall", it's an extended warranty on the frame. The frame rust thing isn't like a normal recall where *everyone* can go in and get a part replaced regardless if they've had a failure of that particular part.

2) there are specific things that need to have happened over the years to even qualify for the frame warranty. Like getting it inspected and coated at some point in the past, I think before 2011, but I could be wrong there. In other words, if you never had the frame inspected or coated and just let the frame sit there and rust apart for 15 years, there is no way they'd replace the frame for you.

3) even if all those criteria were met the OP's frame wouldn't qualify for a replacement anyway, since the frame isn't bad enough to warrant a replacement. I think there has to be like at least 1 dime sized hole in the frame. IMO, that's a pretty piss poor way to jusdge "how bad" a frame is, but they had to draw the line somewhere.

My truck, an 04 doublecab, has never seen an inspection or coating, so I definitely wouldn't qualify. But then again, I live in CA where we don't really have an issue of rust (except on the coast), and my frame is in perfect condition.

 

i would say from the pics given, that this truck was not undercoated from the get go day 1? previous owners at fault

 

Definitely seen worse, definitely have seen better. I live in the rust belt, mine was awful but eventually replaced. Like others have mentioned, scrape, sand, treat and repeat. I do think however that if you look a little deeper you may find some ugliness. We’ve seen many threads here asking the same questions and similar appearing frames. Problem is as many pointed out is the internal rusting, there’s been frames that look presentable on the outside, only to be compromised by a strike of a hammer.
Check around the cats as mentioned and especially near the rear shocks. Good on you for taking the time to at least look around and be proactive. Good luck my man!

 

Bumping my own thread here.

I’ve just welded on some frame reinforcement plates to the back of the frame because I’m installing a rear bumper with a tire carrier and I wanted to make sure the frame could handle it. I now need to paint the spots where I welded the plates on.

Do you guys recommend rust converter?

 

POR15 over rust converter.

 

i have heard from body shop guy (one of the better shops in town) this stuff does not last all that long before becoming flaky

 

POR15 is not UV resistant. It must be covered by a top coat. Rust converter also must be top coated. Having used both, POR15 wins by a length and a half.

 

would this spray be useful? ... I am spraying all of my new wheel molding bolts with it, see how it goes...

 

that guy did not tell me I would have to top coat
so you make a lot more sense than he does
thanks!

do you use this stuff?

 

Google or do a search in TW on “Fluid Film”, my guess its the same general idea.

 

i am looking at Fluid Film, would like to see it up close and personal
does it wash off real easy in winter at the sprayNwash?

 

i am contemplating on powdercoating the rear axle housing, but not sure how it would look (better than what I got now lol)
definitely less maintenance (one coat,bake and done good to go) and basically worry free (i have been told)

 

perhaps the best source is Toyota website < https://www.toyota.com/owners/ > and just select "my Vehicle" then select "Vehicle specs" and just enter your full Vin Number You do not have to register to use the site if you don't want to.

 

So fluid film goes over the paint? Sorry I’ve never done this before so I’m not educated on it at all.

 

me either
lots of ?s
seeking the best overall solution for the long-term

 

so you gotta remove the pickup box every time to apply this fluid film properly once or twice a year?
by sanding do you mean sandblasting whatever parts are needing it?

 

Fighting rust is like holding back the ocean, you can spend billions on levees but eventually the levees will fail. You can grind away the rust undercoat and paint but you can't get all the rust. Fluid Film is a compromise admitting you can't get all the rust. However, you can slow the rust down. You spray Fluid Film on areas that is impossible and/or impractical to scrape and paint. For example the interior of a boxed frame, like we have on our Tacomas up front between the engine mount and the body mount. FF can also be sprayed on painted surfaces to protect against rust and sprayed on existing rust and areas just starting to rust.

PS: FF is not something a you spray on a show car “restoration”. Its a utilitarian stop gap perfect for a truck that’s earned its dents and pin striping on and off road. It smells for a bit and if you spray it on too thick it drips.

 

the 'rust-proofing' shops in my area just want to scrape and coat over (nearly $1000 give or take a few hundred), but i know its not the way to go thanks to TW!
the bed will need to be removed to check the top of the back by spare tire/bumper (where I can never hose it down in the cruel winters )

 

i read that rust WILL stop if it is starved for oxygen, which it needs to further propagate and oxidize?