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Rattling Front Brake

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Unusualattitude, Aug 27, 2023.

  1. Aug 27, 2023 at 2:08 PM
    #1
    Unusualattitude

    Unusualattitude [OP] New Member

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    Took 2008 4x4 Tacoma in for repair--various problems including steering column thumping--especially going over washboard roads. Most things fixed (no more audible thumping in steering column), but still some residual rattling I feel through steering column on relatively smooth city streets. They replaced brake pads as well.
    Now, I am hearing a pronounced rattling in the left wheel area, that goes away when I press the the brake pedal. And, then noticed a click/clack when I release the brake pedal quickly. Usually need to have the window down to hear these things.
    I pulled the left wheel to replace mud flaps and did not see a spring clip on the brake. I was under the impression there should be a spring of some sort. Picture of brake attached.
    I am taking it into the shop that did the work (by all accounts a reputable shop) to take a quick look tomorrow. They are suggesting, potentially, a CV-joint, but would have thought they would have noticed it a week ago, when they did the initial repairs. Could it be that the spring clip needs to be there and it is missing? Thanks

    LeftBrake_2008_Tacoma_Meyer.jpg
     
  2. Aug 27, 2023 at 2:18 PM
    #2
    AwArD

    AwArD Well-Known Member

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    2WD likes this.
  3. Aug 27, 2023 at 2:19 PM
    #3
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    The springs help keep the pads from shifting in the caliper, but they will always make some noise if the bump is big enough

    They need to get a spring in there first and then worry about the axle later
     
  4. Sep 1, 2023 at 5:25 PM
    #4
    Unusualattitude

    Unusualattitude [OP] New Member

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    Thanks--exactly. First try, they said the pads in the disc brakes were moving around so they re-did both front brakes with new pads (this is after I had sent them a picture of the apparent missing spring clip) under warrantee. Drove away with same sound, but had to get to work. Called them and went over the email with them--they realized at that point the tech had not put in the spring-clip. After they those in, that particular sound went away. Now I am left with the thunking, knocking sound on the front end over some stretches of road--feel through steering column and hear it. They originally (before the brake incident) tried to find source of that because it was after some front end repairs they had done (new struts, replaced tie rods, replaced drive shaft and motor mounts). Said they tightened down bolts and then eventually they replaced part of my steering column. Repair shop said there was an articulating part of the column that had become worn, the bolts bottomed out when trying to tighten so had to replace. Some of the sound went a way (there had also been a very loud knocking sound over washboard roads). They cant seem to pinpoint the problem so I am thinking to keep driving it until it gets so bad it may be obvious, or something fails. Possibly lower control arms? They tell me, from there perspective, the suspension is "tight" and nothing dangerous that will cause a safety issue.
     
  5. Sep 2, 2023 at 8:17 AM
    #5
    ARB1977

    ARB1977 It’s a beaut Clark

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    There’s one clip for each side. Adding two clips per side the clunking noise when going in reverse goes away. It prevents the pads from shifting.
     
  6. Sep 3, 2023 at 10:29 AM
    #6
    Unusualattitude

    Unusualattitude [OP] New Member

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    Brakes, seem "fixed now--no more rattling. Other knocking, and thunking sounds in front end persist and appear to be getting worse. Didn't hear these sounds until the repair shop had done all the work (struts, drive-shaft, motor mounts, and tie rads). Today, driving out of parking lot traversing a relatively small dip, heard a loud scrape in the left front end. I suspect it was the mud-guard. I have driven out this particular parking lot every weekend for the last year and have never had a scrape like that. The shop mentioned they had to replace struts in a Honda three times, because teh parts were just defective. There must be something really messed up. Given, that the shop did not replace the spring-clips on the brakes (after taking it back to them twice telling them there was a rattling in the brake), had the lug nuts so tight I could not remove with even a breaker bar and 4 ft cheater pipe, did not replace one of my lugs, and broke my starter when doing the engine mounts, I am wondering if they missed some other things. It could just be coincidence, or that things are so rusted down there that repairs are difficult--breaking rusted parts. The next step will be to take it to a different shop and get a diagnosis--maybe one that specializes in suspensions. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

    This is when I wished I had taken the automotive shop classes in high school [I took two semesters of typing with the attractive future "administrative assistants":) -- turns out that was a bad choice...]
     
  7. Sep 3, 2023 at 11:05 AM
    #7
    2WD

    2WD Well-Known Member

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    Check out the "zip tie mod", that might be your steering column clunk.
     
  8. Sep 16, 2023 at 8:46 AM
    #8
    Unusualattitude

    Unusualattitude [OP] New Member

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    I am guessing the zip tie fix would handle it. I had another repair shop take a look--they had some more extensive diagnostics, but just by driving and taking a look, they identified the steering intermediate shaft and coupling boot as the issue. The previous shop indicated they removed and replaced the Steering Column Intermediate shaft--$325.00 for parts. New shop tells me this is a known issue with this model year that is identified in TSB T-SB-0057-12, stating there is an updated steering intermediate shaft to address. Subtracting the labor cost of the last shop, $332 from the new estimate implies a parts cost of $848.00. It's a nuisance, but something I can wait on. Pretty clear instructions in the TSB. Also, noted that there is quite a bit more play in the steering wheel rotating left or right (almost an inch before it actually starts turning the wheels)--controllable, but noticeable.
     

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