RC60F Transmission swap including 4th Gen Taco

Whoops, I skimmed that line 3 times and didn’t even comprehend what it was saying! Yep, I should be better off with new bolts to the torque spec. Plus it saves me from having to chase down a one time use sealant that will dry up before I ever use it again.

 

Easy to do. Ask me how I know!!!


Just for thread info, the threadlocker equivalent is Loctite Blue 242

 

I mean, that could be interpreted as removing any corrosion inhibitors or oil, etc. from the bolts. Either way, new is the way to go; but I don't think having a torque angle spec'd necessarily means they're TTY - if they were, I can't imagine reuse would be endorsed in an official manufacturer's procedure.

 

Agreed that new is the way to go, although new is $65 for 8 of them, so that kinda blows. PartSouq for the win again, they had them for $4 each and they didn’t add to the shipping cost…

I’m not sure about angles and how they relate to TTY, I do know that my Jeep’s flywheel bolts were TTY, one time use, and were a straight 105 ft lbs.

 

Torque + angle is pretty typical for TTY bolts in my experience. The angle is how you get them to yield.

 

Torque + Angle is just a more accurate way to achieve a target clamp load. It is used more often in torque to yield applications because you have a smaller target you’re trying to hit. Torque + Angle and Torque to Yield do not imply the other to be true.

Toyota uses Torque + Angle for bolts that can be reused quite frequently, and very rarely uses Torque to Yield.

Regarding the sealant, what was said is likely correct. That said, the sealant called for is really for oil sealing purposes, while what is pre-applied is more of a thread locker. Probably not a big deal, but if it was mine I’d maybe still add a bit of sealant to the bolts if they are through holes — don’t want an oil leak.

Jeff

 

Thanks for the clarification. I've mostly experienced TTY bolts on German cars since they love them on engine and suspension parts.

 

Didn’t think about the sealing part because I didn’t think they’d go all the way through to the crankcase. Guess maybe I will use some sealant.

Have a recommendation for anything oil resistant?

 

Flywheels contain an insane amount of kinetic energy; I 100% replace them whenever I am in there. Maybe not a common failure point, but cheap insurance relative to the havoc they can unleash on your vehicle (and body, depending on application).

 

Well, barring any unforeseen changes, tomorrow will be "the day," with this evening hopefully starting the job with some teardown (simple stuff: exhaust removal, shifters, undoing wiring, driveshafts, etc.)

I've been vetting any potential snags and think I'm good to go. The only 2 real concerns I had were about the clutch release fork support (where it mounts on the RC62F), and about what the clutch line-up tool I got from Centerforce will index to.

Fork support concern:

The RC60F out of the 2024 uses a new design where the fulcrum is between the bearing and the slave cylinder. So the slave cylinder is mounted ahead of the fork and pushes backwards, which pushes the bearing forwards. They accomplish this by mounting the release fork support on the front transmission cover plate. Whereas on the 2016-2023 RC62F, you can see there is nothing in that location on the cover plate. See comparison below:

RC60F:



RC62F:



As you can see, it's hard to tell where the support is actually mounted on the RC62F, as most photos you can find are covered by the fork still being installed. I reached out to @tonered who has been inside his bellhousing a couple times, and luckily he had a very helpful photo that shows a little more of what's going on:



Looking closely, you can see there is a tab as part of the bellhousing that the support fastens to. It is hard to tell 100% for sure though. In addition, I found this diagram from the FSM that made it seem pretty certain that the support did mount to the bellhousing:



Still just the tiniest bit unsure, I reached out to @Jowett and @Jeff Lange. They resolved my fears by confirming it does mount to the bellhousing. The reason for the concern was that, if the support was indeed mounted to the transmission casing, the new transmission would not have a way to accommodate that. Unlikely problem to have since these transmissions are so similar, but worth vetting out anyways. Thankfully, not a problem since the bellhousing holds the support. This means the support will just move over when I swap the bellhousings and I'll be good to go.



Clutch alignment tool concern:

This one is not specific to the transmission but just a general concern I had. The factory service manual recommends SST: 09301-00220, which I had trouble finding. Alternatively, I bought a Centerforce tool stating to be for the 3.5L (21 spline, no pilot bearing). I received it expecting it to index into the bore of the flywheel based on things people have said over the years. That didn't work, which sent me into a small panic:



I made a post on FB, but that got nowhere so I took it down. People kept telling me that the tool goes into a pilot bearing, or that it is meant for the clutch splines, or that it locates to the flywheel. I know it's for the clutch splines, we don't have pilot bearings, and clearly it doesn't index to the flywheel. So what then?

Reached out to a few folks including @tcmd and @Jowett and they confirmed the tool ends up working fine in the crankshaft bore. That is what I expected but had no way to test beforehand. With that confirmation, that resolves any concerns I have.



The game plan now is to start the teardown tonight, if time allows. My garage looks like a tornado hit it. My Jeep sits on one side (the short side paired with a toolbox in front of it), so the truck can't just pull in there overnight, it's too long to shut the garage door. Going to pull out the Jeep, move all the stuff over to the Jeep side including organizing loose tools and such, and then pull the truck in and hopefully start teardown this evening. Hopefully it goes smoothly. I'm excited for the swap results!

 

Right?

In for the results. I'm interested!

 

If I neglected to cover it, the shift lever housing (Toyota speak) needs to be swapped (If I am remembering correctly) from the RC62 into the RC60. The nub at the bottom of the Taco shifter is larger, so the part is different. Easiest to do on the shop floor.

 

I think that is the case with the Hilux RC60, but supposedly not the 2024 Tacoma version. @Jeff Lange covered it when he first announced the fitment of the new trans in our trucks. My guess is he made that determination from looking at that piece and seeing it’s the same.

My guess is with the new shifter extension housing being different from the Hilux version, that is probably one of the differences, as well as possibly the length/throw. We’ll see when I get to mine. If I do have to swap it, I hope it’s easy to do.

 

Okay, I yanked the extension housing. Hard to compare just off of memory but definitely looks like the Tacoma version. Either way, will be very easy to swap since it comes right off after the bolt removal. That would really suck if it was internal.

 

Does this transmission get gear oil slung up into the shifter? I’ve been filling this one by dumping the oil in through the shifter hole. It always worked because there is a small hole at the bottom of the shifter pocket, but I’m not sure gear oil ends up in there naturally during self lubrication. Hard to tell. Wondering if I should quit filling up that way, although the oil always made it down into the bottom via the hole, relatively quickly too…

 

Time to party!

 

Filling that way is fine.

If that piece needs to be swapped, it should be quick.

Get after it!

 

Jealous about the wheel dollies.

 

They are pretty sweet. I’m not massive but certainly not skinny. It’s not fun to get under my truck at stock height. This makes it way way easier. I haven’t struggled at all lol, so that’s a win. I originally bought them for my jeep so that while it’s parked in the garage, I can roll it to the other side to sweep under it