RC60F Transmission swap including 4th Gen Taco

As you mentioned the new bolts came with some stuff on them already. I also used the stock replacement bolts like you. Just put them in as shipped with no extra thread locker. Been good for 2 years so far.

 

Ive been an engine line tech for ford for 30 years...
If not too much trouble, post pics of bolts?
Generally if they're already coated with sealer, you dont need anything.
That being said, adding additional loctite sealer won't hurt,
Assuming for a fact you know the flywheel holes in the back of the crank go into oil???
On ford, some do, some dont...

There's this, which confirms your 271 will be fine..
https://www.cherishyourcar.com/loctite-on-flywheel-bolts/

 

They for sure go into the crankcase. I can post a pic in a bit. Currently preoccupied with torquing bellhousing bolts

 

When you torques the flywheel, you can usually hold it by hand outside edge of the teeth, stationary enough to get it torqued & not have engine rotate..
Never needed a flywheel tool in my 32 years.
Or use a flat blade thin screw driver on ring gear teeth & wedge it in the teeth & back of the block, im sure there's some webbing back there & eventually the screwdriver will wedge itself & hold flywheel stationary.
You only want to do this once if it works, torque the flywheel, torque the pressure plate....

This will be really cool if it works!!!!
I remember putting a later model 300zx 5 speed trans in my 1972 Datsun 240z which came with a 4 speed...
But think your project is bit more complex than that....

 

I'd like to think the pre-applied stuff would be all that is needed; but now you've got me second guessing myself, as I am about to pop a flywheel on with new hardware as well. I certainly don't want to have to go back in there over some omitted threadlocker. Perhaps this is guidance in case of fasteners that are being re-used? Perhaps we're over thinking it..

(Edit: deluge of replies while writing this over breakfast, just saying the same thing as everyone else I guess haha)

 

What would applying the loctite hurt?

 

with Ford, if the bolts come factory with a sealer around them like in the scenario, they are one time use. So it would never direct you to add loctite sealer but I know what you’re saying.
Post a picture of the bolt with the sealer.

I just wanna analyze how much sealer is on the new bolt, that should tell the entire picture if it’s truly needed or not

 

we almost certainly are, especially considering supr4lo up above just installed his as is. I’m probably going to do a small bit of the 271 and call it good.

 

Here were my bolts for reference

 

Nobody knows it’s not an RC62F!

New clutch fork, fork support, and TOB installed. I wasn’t sure the best grease to use, Toyota calls it “clutch hub grease” which I couldn’t find, so I just swiped the stuff off the 2024 parts and slathered it on mine. There was plenty there to grab extra.



Time to work on the clutch and flywheel. Joy!

 

Yep, same ones I got.

 

You guys are overthinking it, won’t hurt anything but not necessary.
Is it done yet…
Hurry up!!!!


Absolutely 2000%, not needed, good to go!

 

Pro tip and very important, brake clean the holes and make sure they’re clean and dry…
Want to eliminate any oil residue…

 

Are you done yet????????

 

You don’t know how many times have had rookie mechanics do repairs and were clueless about this. Very important source of an oil leak…

not for me personally, just vehicles I had to look at at the dealership that other people repaired, or an outside shop performed a repair and now it’s in my stall…

 

5 more minutes

 

Yuuuup. Had to defend one of my repairs by having two master techs verify that I brake cleaned the ever loving jebebus out of thread holes and parts before instal. Customer admitted later they had a buddy work on it......

 

Done yet?

Sarcasm aside im stoked you're gettin after this. I followed this thread and was bummed there hasnt been a conclusion.

And 50 minutes later there still isnt /s

 

Flywheel is on. Cleaned it off with dish soap and water. Torquing the bolts was not fun. The 22 ft lbs was easy, the 90° was not. Had to use some ingenuity with a flywheel holder and jammed it up into the frame with my floor jack to hold it. It worked. I called my brother to come out of the house to help hold the holder, but he was fighting for his life on Call of Duty, and transmission swaps take a back seat to that.

The 90° is some serious torque lol, probably 100-120 ft lbs and not a lot of leverage to generate that. Anywho, it’s done. I did use some Loctite, although I definitely think it wouldn’t have mattered. It was clearly only red Loctite in the bolt holes and on the bolts originally. On the other side of the hole, there is some sort of metal very close to the hole. It’s doubtful oil even gets to this area, the ends of my old bolts were dry as a bone. But I used some Loctite anyways.



Cleaned up the pressure plate the same as the flywheel, good old Dawn, water, and shop towels.



Clutch is on. Alignment tool worked perfectly. Kind of a handful to get the pressure plate and disc up there with only two hands AND get bolts in, but it’s done. Torqued them to 20 ft lbs (spec is 14) because my wrench is old and handle has been left twisted many times so just adding in a bit. Interestingly, one of my old bolts was loose. Hopefully these don’t ever loosen up.



With all that said, I think it’s time for the transmission to find its new home in the truck.

 

Exciting!!

Also nice to see that your coolant crossover pipe isn't leaking