RCD club, how many are in?

I ran 285/70R17s on my previous truck with a 3" lift. It rubbed when flexing on the frame. It wasn't a big deal. I wouldn't worry about it too much since you don't do any extreme off-road use. Especially since you will eventually lift it another inch. No need to go through the work of CMC if you won't need it in a few months.

1. Correct. The coil compression would not be changed. It just moves the strut downward to achieve the lift.

2. I would run the lift blocks until I got the front where I wanted it. Then order a custom leaf pack to your desired rear height.

3. Absolutely! They are not hard to install BTW.

I got my LR UCAs from Amazon.

I ran these on my previous truck and got 3/4" of lift: You will need to use longer studs (included). The coil spring will have to be removed to do this.

Toytec has 1 and 1.5 inch rear blocks without u-bolts. I wasn't successful finding 2 inch blocks without u-bolts anywhere.

 

My wheel rub is crazy tight, like maybe 1/8" off the cab mount on the pass side, a hair more on the drivers side at full lock. I like your idea of getting the front correct first and then ordering rear springs. Only down side is the long wait to get the Alcans.(I think it takes 5-6 weeks to get them) But your right I should prob put the money into the UCA's and the top spacer now and deal with the nose high for a couple of months. I think I deff want the full 1" added up front. My axles are bone straight, my stock springs have 45k on them. I lost 1"-1.25" with the the spring seat flip.

What do you think of these spacers?

 

I had no paint left on the frame where my tires rubbed lol

I didn't want to wait for custom alcans either. I also had some friends who had sagging issues and with alcan springs. I Ended up ordering OME Dakars and will use a 1.5" block. Will work just fine for my needs. I don't do any extreme wheeling. Just gravel roads and some mild old logging roads.

Regarding the All Pro link, I'm not a fan of compressing the spring. Effects ride quality too much.

 

Instead of running a block down the road if you want to increase the rear lift, couldn't you do a shackle flip? I thought shackle flips helped the leaf packs have a wider operating range and also resulted in approximately one to one and a half inches of lift. I am by no means on expert on the shackle flip process though so I am just throwing this out there for comments by those with more knowledge than me.

 

The AllPro sits on top of the strut, that shouldn't compress the spring anymore than what it is now correct?
Looking at that now 1" spacer doesn't mean 1" lift at the hub, it would end up over an inch. Just like that 13mm/.5" works out to 3/4" of lift.
Im prob going to give the the 13mm/.5" a try and see how I like that.
Looking at Wheeler's web site now, it says their spacers are stackable. I wonder if I
could put a 1/2" with a 1/4" to get to 1" lift. If a 1/4" spacer works out to 3/8" lift and a 1/2" spacer works out to 3/4" lift would I be wrong in thinking a
3/4" spacer would work out to 1" of lift?

 

Oops. I missed that. You are correct. Too many beers last night. lol

Stacking the spacers would probably be fine. I would go with the poly 1" spacer though. That would regain you the entire 1 1/4" you lost without having to stack. It would also be more cost effective.

This whole dilemma you are having makes me chuckle though. With all the 6" lifts out there, you choose a 5" and end up trying to make it a 6". lol

 

I know right lol. I still think the rcd kit is better quality then the 6" kits out there or at least better thought out. Plus I already had custom 17" wheels. The 6" kits require 18" wheels.

 

I agree!

Those 295s looked sweet with the height you had it before though. I wish 295s were offered in more brands (and with load range D). I'd be ordering up those top plate spacers as well.

 

I just thought of another option. If you wanted to go 1.6", you could get these springs:
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/ToytecEibach-front-coil-lift-springs_p_14.html
Or 1.5" with 883s:
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Front-Tacoma-OME-Lift-Coils-_p_1011.html

 

I'm going to try to stay as close to 1" as I can, 1.25" would be ok too. Trying to find the happy medium between lift and axle angles. I too fell in love with the 295's at the added height. If I had not seen it that way and didn't have tire rub I prob wouldn't bother lol. But now it's a quest. I think I'm going to take your advice and get the uca's and the spacer now and just deal with the nose high until I can get the rear taken care of.

 

Sounds like a good plan. You'd probably be happier with that set up in the end.

Rockin the bro lean would bug the shit out of me too. Some people like it. It's just not my thing.

You aren't the only one trying to deal with a dilemma. I've been trying to figure out something since I bought this truck a couple of months ago. My previous truck had an apex bumper and winch. I miss that. I want to get one for this truck, but don't want to lift it any more than it is now. And adding that much weight to the stock springs is not an idea I'm fond of. Plus it will likely compress the springs and I will end up with less that the 5" I have now. Unfortunately I've been unsuccessful in finding higher rated springs that don't lift it much. This modding thing just never seems to end...

 

lol I hear that. it's so frustrating at times yet so much fun. I know I will be happier in the end going with UCA's. I'm going to get them and that spacer ordered up this weekend and go from there. Someone mentioned a shackle flip in the rear. I'll have to research that, maybe that could be a temp fix for the rear until I can get springs ordered. At this point I don't know the pros and cons of doing that. The bro lean is def not my thing either lol.

 

lol just when I thought I had it all figured out. I started reading up on that AllPro 1" spacer. Looks like it adds 1.5-2" of lift. I think that is a lot more then I want. I know it's not cost effective but I'm thinking of going with Wheelers stackable spacers and using a 3/8 combined with a 1/4" to add up to 5/8" total spacer. I'm thinking that would keep me in the 1-1.25" lift range I'm looking for. I'm going to order the Light Racing UCA's from them too. They have them for $410. What are your thoughts on my spacer lift math lol. Also I was reading a review of the UCA's and one guy was complaining about the top ball joint nut being a bitch to keep tight and not moving, have you had any trouble with your setup?

 

I do not have a comment on the spacers being that I have never used them before. However, I had the light racing upper control arms on my old truck and never had any issues with them. This time I went with total chaos upper control arms. I think I like them even better than the light racing control arms. It was much easier getting back to a factory alignment.

 

I've got the 285/70/17 and I'm rubbing while the wheel is turned all the way can only imagine how bad your rub is. Thinking about throwing the set of AllPro UCA on since there just sitting around then a re- align and ask for the max caster.
Sounds like you have a plan with the spacer and I'd sell you my LR UCA's cheap but I'm not sure if they would fit. There the older style than what there showing now plus they list an FJ and 4 runner as a match with the newer style I could call and ask what the difference is.

 

I don't see how a 1" spacer can give 2" of lift. Did you call them?

Wheeler's has a 1-1/8" spacer that states it gives 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". If their info is correct, a 1" spacer should give you slightly less than wheeler's option, which is right where you want to be.

As far as stacking...
Wheeler's website states a 3/8" spacer will give 1/2" - 5/8" of lift. A 1/4" spacer gives 3/8" (I got 3/8" exactly using this on my driver's side). Stacking those should give you 7/8" - 1".

I'm thinking stacking a 1/2" spacer (wheelers states 3/4" - 7/8") and a 1/4" (gave me 3/8" on my current truck) should give you 1-1/8" - 1-1/4".

I haven't had any problems keeping the ball joint nut tight, but I haven't had the arms that long. I believe I torqued it to 150 ft. lbs. I don't think it's moving.

I had TC UCAs on my previous truck. I went with LR this time. I don't like the poly bushings. Required more maintenance, got tired of the squeaking, and they had a tendency to produce a clunking sound if they ran low on grease. During summer and spring I go in the mountains almost every weekend. They constantly saw rain, snow, sand, dirt, dust, etc. Perhaps this is why they squeaked so much if I didn't grease them every month or two. I also am not a fan of the uniball for the type of environment I expose my truck to.

If I remember correctly, the TC arms are +3 degrees positive caster. This is probably why it's so easy to align. I put my LR arms at +2 and was able to get 3.95 positive camber. Going another degree, which the TC are, would end up putting the tires closer to the inner fender. I wanted to achieve a caster of 4, while keeping the factory caster adjustment maxed out. This allows max fender to tire clearance. The TC arms won't allow that type of fine tuning.

 

Here is my rcd contribution. Love the lift but answer me this guys. I have never had a lifted truck and can't find the squeaking I Thinking Control Arms But What U Guys Think That Have This Lift too...Common problem

 

Rear spring squeaks are common. My factory control arms have never squeaked. What control arms are you running? Are you sure the squeak is coming from the front?

 

could be I haven't had someone pull forward and reverse. ill check its on driver side I figured because of weight of driver and the "taco lean"

thanks though

also people running aftermarket control arms what brand I was thinking total chaos but does uca raise the front any more.... thanks again and yes I searched about 40 pages from beginning first before asking this but did not find anything.....

 

No, UCAs do not add any lift.