Rear axle off center

Bed misalignment is somewhat common on Tacoma's but easy enough to adjust.

 

I’ve read this is relatively common on these trucks. Meaning, you’re not the first to post about it. If a 4-wheel alignment comes up clean then it’s baked into the final product. Shifting the bed might or might not clean it up some but if it drives true then it depends on how much the aesthetic bothers you.

 

It's not bad.
There's people here that are always here that know nothing more than what they've "read" here. No real world experience but they feel the need to comment on everything.
I was treated like crap when my acct was new.
Been driving tacomas for 22 years but because my acct was new, many acted like I don't know anything.
Stick around.

 

I need pictures to be more helpful.

 

What I was wondering is if the leaf pack shifted a little. I think it's possible to have the leaves crooked and still be on the center pin.
What I would try is, with the truck on the ground loosen ALL the ubolts.
Rock the truck a little bit so the leaves can settle into place then retighten the ubolts.

 

Sorry so triggered. There always the few smart assses. But OP if you have checked bed alignment and the alignment specs are in order. There is no fixing it. You could try loosening the ubolts and shifting the axle maybe you get a 1/4” corrected. But as I’ve said earlier with a live axle set up for the axle to sit to one side or another is absolutely normal.

 

Yup. This ^

 

Pictures would help us OP?

 

Don’t spend money chasing this.

 

It sounds like you are capable of doing the work yourself, maybe source a nearly new stock leaf pack locally? They have little to no resale value, so with some searching you can probably find a set of take-offs.
Of course that's IF you are staying at stock ride height and don't plan to carry heavy loads.

 

This OP. A leaf pack won’t fix this. Now if the bushings on your current pack are all worn to hell maybe. Hate to see you spend money and not really fix it. My truck is approx 3/4” and some days if I’ve gone down the trails it may be a 1/2”. Just the way the rear suspension works.

 

If a moderator sees this, please permanently delete all this and my account! I’m done with forums in 2025.

 

The main leaf spring on each side is connected to the frame at the bushings, front and rear. Even if your shorter leaves are twisted, they are twisted around the center pins, which go through the main leaf. That’s not going to allow your axle to move side to side much.

Even if you loosen your u-bolts and are able to shift the axle to the center, when you re-tighten your u-bolts and drive the truck it will probably pull the axle back to where it was. (Caveat in point 6 below).

All that said, here are some other possibilities to consider:

1.) You might have a broken or loose center pin. That would allow your axle to move off-center, especially under the influence of the RAS.. You would need to remove the U-bolts and bump stops, and lower the axle from the springs to check them.

2.) You might have worn-out or torn bushings or a broken bolt in one of the ends of your leaf springs or shackles. On a 2022, I kind of doubt that’s the case but it’s worth checking.

3.) You might have a bent shackle hanger (the J shaped thing that hangs off the rear of your frame to hold the shackle). Uncommon, but it happens.

4.) The RAS might be putting unequal spring tension on your axle, shifting it to one side. Given that the shocks on these trucks are mounted asymmetrically, this is a real possibility.

5.) You might have a cracked leaf spring or a broken u-bolt.

6.) Finally, take a look at the angles of the two plates under the axle housing that the u-bolts pass through. Are they both at the same angle? If they are not, that’s good evidence that your u-bolts were not tightened evenly. (Even if the plates are even) loosen the u-bolts and tighten each one a little bit at a time, ensuring they are all even, finishing each bolt with a torque wrench to the same spec. (People disagree on what that spec should be, but I personally do 75 ft. lbs. The FSM says 37, which is almost certainly a misprint. Most aftermarket spring and bolt manufacturers call for something in the range of 90 ft. lbs. I have found my springs squeak less at 50 ft lbs, so I split the difference and do 75.) (This probably isn’t going to fix your offset axle issue but it’s worth checking and trying while you’re under there.)

 

You are a very patient man. I salute you.

 

If readers are confused, it appears the OP has deleted most of his posts. It must have have been a very rough calculus exam … or it’s Friday.

 

wow, thank you so much Tom, you are the kind of man I would want to work with in a mechanic shop!!!! I will save this info for future reference! You’re the man!

I’m still done with this forum

 

Quitter.

 

One last possibility — I once saw a Canadian Tacoma that had a seized rear shock that was causing variety of problems with the rear end. It wasn’t completely seized but it was seized enough to mess things up.

 

Just underemployed and bored. But I do like these puzzles.

 

I’ve owned Tacomas for twenty years now, and Tacomaworld has been a MASSIVE help for me. I’ve diagnosed problems, learned to fix them on my own, made dozens of modifications and improvements to my trucks, bought and sold parts, and have made good friends here and gone on 4x4 adventures with them. Don’t quit.

Some people say rude things, sometimes intentionally (because they are personally weak and miserable, and therefore deserving of your pity), but often because they simply don’t understand how they are coming across to you. That’s everywhere, and you are not going to escape that by quitting Tacomaworld. Don’t quit.