Rear Axle Swap Suggestions

and all abs connections are there hear they hook up but not possitive

 

Yes, the 10.5 comes behind the 5.7 in the Tundra. The 4.7 V8, 4.6 V8, both 4.0l V6 engines, and the 5.7 in Land Cruiser all get a 9.5". They have a large pinion and 32 spline 1.37" axles. ABS equipped wheel bearings may or may not be compatible.

 

big brakes and wheelbearings came in today

 

The 10.5 is an awful lot of axle for the 2nd gen, but you won't hear me argue against it!

 

race tacoma needs BEEF! and be able to jump with 37s and no worries

 

Can anyone tell me the full price of a solid axle swap conversion for my 2012 2wd Tacoma?

 

depends on the axle really im about 1400 in my tundra swap with axle and brackets but doing my own work and axle is still stock at this point

 

Anyone move forward with swapping the rear axle? I'm on 35s and 4.56 gears and an ARB on an 8.4 rear now and going to 37s and 4.88s. I have the Stoptech big brake rear kit sitting in a box on the shelf. I'm tempted to sell my good rear end + brake kit and go to a Tundra or D60 or 9" rear. Rear discs are a must. I'll be going 3.5+ and glass up front but keeping the stock (tho hacked to hell) rear bedsides since I have a Vagabond Drifter on full time. Going to stay SOA but going with custom hoops to allow 14" shocks under the bed, Archive hangers, custom Deavers and hydro bumps.

 

There is a sticky for a curry swap.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/installing-a-currie-ford-9-in-a-tacoma.545890/#post-17689865

 

I...don't know how I missed that. Thanks.

 

Lol. It's toward the end of what seems like 100 stickies...easy to do.

 

Uh, no. If you're asking that you probably aren't doing the work yourself and should set aside over $10,000. OP, are you also going to swap out the front axle? Everyone needs big axles in their life.

 

I did a 9.5 Diamond landcruiser swap with the 4runner outer axles. Called ahead and asked for the housing made for the 4runner without the coil setup or brackets. Had the leaf spring perches and shock mounts done on the truck. Personally I went to 4.56 for 35's and kinda regret that they dont make a 4.30 kit for the 35's or I would have picked that. for 37s the 4.56 is actually the gearing you should use unless you do under 60mph all the time. Its also a stronger gearset by design/tooth/pitch so you wont break as much. I went with the 9.5 for parts and availability worldwide and cheap. the 9 inch would have been my second choice. If you want beefy a 9 inch with an arb 9 w1.5" outputs, and d60 full float outers. That kit should handle a lot of bounce and keep on laughing.
Another nice thing about doing the hoops and all, I ran the total chaos hoops with the icon leafs (swapping to deavers and AG hangers as well) and have been using 10" with nothing hanging below the axle. I will be upgrading the leafs then upgrading to either 12 or 14" depending on what I can fit. might have to move the hangers down some more but I can handle that

 

Thanks for the detailed response. Did you go with rear discs? I'll look into that route. I'm currently leaning towards a 9". I'm also going to call a couple companies and see if they would do a "Tundra" axle but setup for a Tacoma for spring perches, brake hardware, etc.

 

There’s another option out there that I doubt any of you know of yet.

ECGS sells a bolt in Dana 60. I have one on order now. $4080 after upgrading to all new bearings and seals, 35 spline chromoly axles, 4.88s, and an air actuated OX locker.

It also retains the wheel speed sensors and uses OEM backing plates and brakes. I had an SOS rear disk kit shipped to ECGS, but that’s obviously not necessary.

I called there looking to have a 9” built after breaking two 8” ring gears in a month.

This rear was originally made to ship over seas to Hilux dealers to raise the payload capacity.

Call East Coast Gear Supply and ask for Stephen to get all the details.

 

Yes, i an running the 4th gen 4runner caliper, 5th gen rotors and ebrake mechanism hooked up to the stock ebrake cable.
The 9 inch is good but expensive to set up. It has more gearing options and even race application lockers. You can also just get a housing and shafts for a full float landy to center it. Lots of options

Looked at it and it hung way too low on the diff. The whole reason for changing the axle housing was to gain the brakes and more clearance. The diamond axle i mentioned uses the factory sensors and factory Toyota calipers.

 

Valid point. I’m going up to 37s from 35s. I figure that will make up most of the difference in clearance lost.

I just need to stop breaking rear diffs. I don’t think ECGS was going to warranty another one...

I was just saying, it’s an option not too many people seem to know about. It’s also considerably less expensive than the Currie 9” and more bolt in.

I talked to Diamond as well but couldn’t get a return call after. ECGS always answers the phone, has great customer service, and gave me a big credit for my broken 8”. All contributing factors to my decision.

I’ve never heard anything bad about a Diamond axle.

130 lbs per corner, and roughly 400 HP. I needed to do something for sure.

 

why the 60 vs 14bolt? once the 14bolt is shaved its higher up then the taco setup. and stronger then a 60. is it just because of the speed sensors? not sure i would care about factory brakes as there are so many disk kits out there for them

 

I think what your experiencing is tube flex. its the main killer of ring gears. a fully trussed ( top and back) axle housing with full float ends is REALLY hard to break and HP/torque isn't really a deciding factor. Most aftermarket housings use really good thick metal so that is where the upgrade really lies.

Consider this. a toyota supra runs 1200hp on pavement hard launches on the SAME 8 inch ring and pinion. But because they are independant with CV axles (upgraded for higher hp unit) the flex never touches the housing minus the one axle contact point which is supported by the housing bearing. Its one of the only weak points of a solid axle unit and is helped greatly by bracing.

The dana 60 specifically hangs very low right in the center by design. thats all I meant by it.

 

its not just flex though. the shock loading in an offroad application also kills R&P