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Rear Brake Drum Replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by BartMaster1234, Nov 18, 2016.

  1. Jun 2, 2019 at 12:59 AM
    #21
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, it's completely bolt on if you have the right brake lines.

    I don't know about 2nd Gens though. The Tundra upgrade is a popular 1st Gen mod.
     
  2. Jun 2, 2019 at 1:07 AM
    #22
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    Same. Along with all new rear stuffs too including oem drums. Man what a difference. I had to fight with my brake lines for the tundras tho. The wheelers lines didnt take to the Callahan calipers as well as other brands that others have used(like Napas). Still had to drill the banjo bolts and use thicker washers.
     
  3. Jun 2, 2019 at 1:09 AM
    #23
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I didn’t bother messing with the banjo bolt or stock style lines. I went straight for LC Engineering’s Tundra conversion brake lines which include the correct hard flares lines stock on the Tundra.

    https://www.lceperformance.com/Stainless-Brake-Line-Kit-Tacom-To-Tundra-Upgrade-p/1055114-k.htm
     
  4. Jun 2, 2019 at 2:56 AM
    #24
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    Yeah i saw that but cheaped out, figuring it would work easy like others experienced with the wheelers. First mistake was I rushed it and installed the calipers on the wrong sides. Lol.. Then I discovered the bolts wouldnt go in far enough. Then couldnt get it to stop leaking after I did get the bolts drilled, so I had to make an extra trip for more washers. Ugh.. But I got er done nonetheless. Haha.

    Definitely go for the LC lines tho if you're considering the swap @Kyle2007 . Pricier, but worth it. I went with the red powder coated kit on Amazon from Callahan btw. Was the cheapest I found iirc, and includes rotors.
     
  5. Apr 15, 2020 at 6:33 AM
    #25
    El Tano

    El Tano i am the one who knocks

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    I’m having a hard time removing the drums, any tips? I already did W-40, some persuasion with a heavy hammer, nothing. I don’t go wheeling with the truck, they shouldn’t be stuck.
     
  6. Apr 15, 2020 at 6:51 AM
    #26
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    The drums have two 8mm x 1.25 threaded holes. Wire brush and scrape the hub/drum joining surface well. Penetrating oil well. Thread bolts into holes on drum while tapping and turning the drum untill it loosens from hub and clears shoe contact. You may have to back off brake adjustment from rear of backing plate.
     
    HiperTexas likes this.
  7. Apr 15, 2020 at 6:56 AM
    #27
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    is the emergency / parking brake on or off?
    that caused me some problems
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
  8. Apr 15, 2020 at 7:00 AM
    #28
    El Tano

    El Tano i am the one who knocks

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    They were on.

     
    dweikum likes this.
  9. Apr 15, 2020 at 7:01 AM
    #29
    El Tano

    El Tano i am the one who knocks

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    Parking brake is off (now) and I have the screws in and put some pressure on them but I don’t want to snap them. I have to jump on a conference call I’ll be back to it in a few hours. Thanks
     
  10. Apr 15, 2020 at 7:03 AM
    #30
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    maybe its a 2nd gen problem :notsure:
     
    El Tano[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Apr 15, 2020 at 7:07 AM
    #31
    El Tano

    El Tano i am the one who knocks

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    Damn, I’m in the 1st gen forum. Sorry folks. I was trying to check the pads and ran into problem did a search and I didn’t realized that it was in the 1st gen..
     
  12. Apr 15, 2020 at 7:08 AM
    #32
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    Heat works to break loose stuck parts.
    Heating and cooling plus drum removal bolts is only way I know of removing stuck brake drums.
    Use antiseize on reassembly.
     
    cruisedon66 likes this.
  13. Apr 15, 2020 at 7:11 AM
    #33
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    Big hammer :rofl::rofl:
     
    dweikum likes this.
  14. Apr 15, 2020 at 9:24 AM
    #34
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    No point in paying LCE prices for that Tacoma-to-Tundra brake line kit; I sell the same kit much cheaper. Well, arguably the SS soft lines I include are higher quality than LCEs...

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...brake-line-upgrade-kits-96-04-1st-gen.610224/
     
    Arctic Taco likes this.
  15. Apr 15, 2020 at 9:42 AM
    #35
    Timmah!

    Timmah! Well-Known Member

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    These two videos will help out those that find this thread and want to do their own work. For the front disk brakes, I've had and others have had good success with aftermarket rotors and pads. For the rears, I've heard many horror stories with aftermarket shoes. Do yourself a favor and order OEM shoes. As for the drums, if they aren't deeply grooved, reuse them. I've done many rear brake jobs on these rigs and I reused the OEM drums every time with success. For money savings on the front, don't forget that you can get rotors resurfaced for a nominal fee. As long as there's enough meat left on your rotors, you can get them resurfaced and keep your OEM rotors. I'd say the going rate for resurfacing rotors is around $15/rotor.

    https://www.youtube.com/embed/NhaJcoV5h40

    https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs
     
    ElTaquitoJr, dweikum and GQ7227 like this.
  16. Apr 15, 2020 at 12:29 PM
    #36
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I have never tried to remove drums without backing the brakes off .
     
  17. Apr 16, 2020 at 8:51 AM
    #37
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

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    When I couldn't remove my drums, I backed off the adjustment quite a bit, stopping periodically to see if the brake shoes cleared the drums. That, and a small bit of penetrating oil between the axle and the drum interface let me remove the drums without any further problems. Maybe you could try that?
     
  18. Apr 16, 2020 at 9:01 AM
    #38
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    Not sure anyone has brought this up yet, but just to be sure - the emergency brake isn't on, right? If it is, you've got the shoes pressing against the drums and holding them on there.

    Assuming the eBrake is off, check out my post about changing your rear brake shoes:

    Step by Step Tacoma Rear Drum Brake Shoe Replacement

    Look for the section "Removing the wheel and brake drum" - essentially, you can use two M8-1.25x50mm bolts threaded through the drum to press it off. Make sure however that you've already backed off the adjuster - you don't want to be pressing against the force of the shoes; just of rust, etc.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Apr 16, 2020 at 10:02 AM
    #39
    El Tano

    El Tano i am the one who knocks

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    Thank you everyone for all the info. I'll see if I finish work early today and try.
     
  20. Apr 16, 2020 at 11:57 AM
    #40
    El Tano

    El Tano i am the one who knocks

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    Success, thank you
    130k miles on them and they are fine. Vacuum and a brush to clean the dust and that’s it. Those marks on the drum are probably from the stupid dealer :mad: when I used to take it there for services. I used a wood block now.

    6F8908AE-FA0F-47E3-BC53-636120C4ED8A.jpg
    889193AF-A5BE-4327-BCEC-F644F899582B.jpg
     

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