Rear Brake Replacement Tips

Just did a complete rear brake replacement including new drums, shoes, spring kit, and wheel cylinders. Had to remember my early vehicles doing drums again! Remember to do 1 side at a time no matter how smart or experienced you think you are because you will get confused at some point as to where the hell does that go or how does it go back on. Tacoma had 190k on it and these are the second shoes but first full replacement of all.
1. After you remove the shoes and springs on one side then replace the wheel cylinder - bleed after you get done with drums on.
2. Front and rear shoes have different fixed pivot studs on them so match up to old ones or as you go you will find out. Don't squeeze any C-clips on until you look and determine.
3. The parking brake shoe strut lower arm on both sides at the pivot hole were frozen/rusted on and did not pivot as they should. Pry them off and 3m pad and grease resolved that issue - they are only held on by a return spring see the pic long white spring. On reassembly that arm and spring were the last things put on.
4. The rear shoe with the parking brake shoe lever went on first behind the shoe and the parking brake adjuster with the spring must be on before you put the brake shoe reaction lever on top of the shoe followed by the C-clip. If you do this first all else goes on easily.
5. As always I find even with a brake spring tool the hold down springs are a pain as you hold the rod from the back and try to get the cup on.
6. The automatic adjuster arm fits under the edge of the parking brake shoe strut top set in the groove. Pass side adjuster bolt is regular thread so screws in right hand and the adjuster arm pushes down on the outside edge of it and it expands or screws out (see pic of pass side. Grease the threads and inside the front pivot of the strut. Drivers side is reverse thread or screws in left hand. To expand/adjust either side when the drums are on use the rear access hole and point the screwdriver or brake tool pointed in and down and rotate the adjuster wheel up - simply as that on both sides. To adjust in or unlock the shoes use a second tool to push the adjuster arm in as you rotate the wheel down (top to bottom).
7. I adjust them close enough as I assemble by turning the drum only and when I feel it contact the shoes slight drag I'm done. Not by the book and 15 clicks from locked.
8. Bleeding. With lines on and tight and bleeder closed turn the key to ON and pressurize the system (you will hear it). I turn the key off and have someone depress the brake pedal and hold and then open the bleeder and it flows out fast so open slowly into a cup or use a hose section. Book says you can leave the key on but if you bleed too much you could trigger the ABS so I do a few key on pressurize the key off and bleed. If you never pressurize the system you will not be able to bled it.
Note: Pics are pass side and diagram is drivers side.

 

Nice writeup, I like the diagram. I am on my second set of shoes and original hardware. I used my camera to take pics as I disassembled the shoes. The tricky part are the parts under the wheel cylinder. I replaced the c-clips with e-clips, something I always do when replacing shoes as I find them easier to work with.

 

Question if you know the answer which I believe is yes...
Toyota lists TWO part numbers for the rear cylinders, left and right 47550 and 47570 but I think they are actually identical right? I'm doing a full rear break job and the RockAuto $12 OEM's have no directionality listed.
Also how bad were the bolts that hold the cylinders? They're only $1 so I'm getting some just in case...
Also, any parts you came across that were in need of replacement that I might forget?
I have full rear kit, Cylinders AND I'm doing my brake cable...

All prompted by my parking brake sticking and I can see the aluminum connectors on the back of the hub broke and the cable is free moving...

 

Mine were bore size 15/16 so both same and I looked part #s at McGeorge and 47550-04030 for both.
Put your VIN # in their site and do a search and see if yours come up the same.
2005-2021 Toyota Tacoma Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder (Left, Right, Front, Rear, Upper) 47550-04030 | Toyota Parts (mcgeorgetoyota.com)
Wheel cylinder bolts came right out on mine. You should use a brake wrench for the bleeders so you don't round the sides off.

Believe other size is 7/8 bore and the Toyota ones on mine were stamped on as 15/16. Got mine from Advance # WCA 131480

 

Only do one side at a time so you have the other side for reference when reassembling.
AND don't press the brake pedal with the drums off!!

 

A ratcheting wrench is a huge help for the parking brake cable bracket on top of the frame, directly below the cab

 

I am borrowing an air ratchet from a friend..I watched a great youtube video on it...
Things I learned..Connect to the center console adjuster before running the brake lines back to the wheels...

 

I couldn't even get a regular ratchet to fit that bolt, let a lone an air ratchet. ymmv