Rear brakes will not bleed

ISSUE:

No fluid comes out of the rear brake lines. I’ve replaces the rubber lines in the front & rear already

when I replaced the rear, fluid was coming out so I don’t think there is a block.

The only time fluid will come out is when I pump the brake once, after that nothing

Front brakes are fine, fluid comes out & it’s been “bled”


Any ideas what it can be?


Solution:

Per post #2 & #9, my truck has an automatic bleeder that all you do is put the key on the “ON” position & hold the brake down. This pushes out the brake fluid.

Repeat this a couple of times until the fluid coming out is clear & no bubbles in the clear hose. Highly recommend to use a bottle with a clear hose connected to it so you can see the fluid coming out

Always keep an eye on your fluid in the reservoir that it’s not running low while doing this.

 

09+ TRD OR 4x4 i see...

Turn the truck to ON (motor not running). make sure the brake fluid is topped off, press n hold the brake pedal, electric pump should push fluid out continuously until it build pressure (bleeder closed) or it runs out of fluid to pump... dont let it run dry.

 

10-4, I’ll try that today.

The brakes work fine but here and there they will sink in all the way .. makes it pretty unsafe when driving

 

@05prerun82 this sounds like what was going on with yours when the plunger was stuck. Does your truck have the vacuum brake booster or the electric one though? Although yours is an offroad, i vaguely remember yours having the vacuum booster. Maybe since its an 06?

 

Its vacuum booster

 

Master cylinder plunger is stuck and not coming all the way out i had same problem

 

You have to take master cylinder off you can pull it all the way out by hand if you have fluid on the shaft needs to be replaced

 

If yours is like mine best case scenario you dont have to replace master cylinder just pull the plunger out put it back on

 

If the master cyl looks like this, the setup is electric and bleeds in the manner described in post #2.

Refer to the following thread for more detail. You don't need speed-bleeders to do this:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-4x4-trd-off-road-with-speed-bleeders.368080/

 

Nope mine is old school vacuum pump

 

Post #9 might help the OP.

 

Yes mine looks like that. I’ll read it as soon as I can. Ty

 

Only question is, do I need a 2nd hand or can I still do the 1 man brake bleeding job technique with the plastic bottle?

 

When you have time - read the ENTIRE URL I pointed to in post #9. You will learn that the auto bleed function only works on the rears, so yes, you can do a 1 man tube submerged in a bottle thing to flush the fronts.

 

Why don't you buy a Motive pressure bleeder and use that to bleed everything at around 20psi

like what people do on other cars

 

I just mimicked what post #2 & #9 said. I’ll give it a test drive tomorrow morning and keep you updated.

 

Don't feel down, if your booster or master fail, they'll probably fail individually, and NOT cost you >$1k to replace.

+1 on the pressure bleeder idea. I bought a Mityvac one when I worked in a shop, there were a couple GM trucks I had to do the ABS pump scanner bleed on after doing all the lines, but other than that it got everything bled. Worst part of it is cost, but using it at home and only needing a couple of the adapters would help that some.

 

with the electric booster its easy. Top of rez, turn the truck to on, place a piece of wood between pedal and drive seat and slide forward so the wood holds the pedal down.

Walk to the wheel you want to bleed n crack the breather... and let the electric pump do its job.

 

It worked. The pedal feels just like normal again. Thanks bro

 

So the problem continued after all this ..
Last night I decided to flush every single line all over again. I used (2) 32oz bottles of brake fluid. I test drove this morning and it felt fine, I’ll post later on to see if anything changes