Rear brakes

I had my rear brakes done at a shop in town, they replaced everything including the brake cylinders & brake lines .. they bled the brakes, but there not working,, there adjusted but when I step on the brake pedal they just keep spinning. . The brake pedal is as fIrm as it was when I brought it in.. so could they have missed something in the bleeding process??

 

The rear brake proportioning valve may be faulty, out of adjustment or was not bled. Some of these valves have a reset plunger to actuate after service. The load compensation rod attached at the bottom of the valve senses load from the right side of the axle and has an adjustment also. Was a lift kit recently added or the bed load significantly lightened recently?

 

Does your Parking brake Work??

See if that holds the truck.

Some shops are clueless about adjusting Toyota Brakes.

Just how were they adjusted??

How did the rear brakes work before they were done??

If you have a firm pedal it seems things were bled correct

 

Parking brake works fine, the brakes worked real good when I brought it in but shoes were getting worn out, when they had it apart they noticed the cylinders were leaking so they replaced them which lead to replacement of brake lines ... I talk to the guy that did it and he's pretty positive that he did everything right, someone ( can remember it it was this group ) said that there was another place in the brake line that had to be bled .. but that was years ago that I read that and not sure if remember it all that well

 

Black Dog Lila, no and no.. buy I believe the vavle you're talking about is the I just commented about in the above post, so hopefully it can just be bled

 

I don't understand why the brake lines needed to be replaced because the wheel cylinders leaked. I've been replacing Bendix brake linings and wheel cylinders for 60 years on all of my cars and trucks and never had anything go wrong with the brake lines. What am I missing?

 

I venture the lines to the wheel cylinders just twisted off when attempting to remove.

Pretty common if you have the lovely Liquid Brine and Salt in the Winter

I have replaced several hundred feet of brake line since that first one so long ago.

I will say the newer Copper Nickle line is great to work with

Your so very lucky never having that problem

 

Yeah, head in the salt belt nothing is safe, brake lines really take it hard.. but new question. . How do you reset the proportioning vavle? We tried to bleed it with no luck, we get fluid out at the bleeder but nothing at the wheels

 

The vehicle must be on the ground, not on stands or lift. The load sensor is on the bottom of the LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) the rod attached at the bottom of LSPV connects to the rear axle at the other end and has threaded adjustment rod pointing UP. Remove the nut from the rod adjustor and raise the rod up, this should cause the other end of the rod at the bottom of the LSPV to be pulled down which will increase the rear braking force by allowing more fluid to the rear brakes. The easy way is to line the bed with plastic sheeting and fill it with water or just add weight by filling it with people If the rod connected at the bottom of the LSPV is fully up you will get little to no rear braking. Lift kits and larger tires will cause the LSPV to be closed and over time frozen in the up position.

 

Jerry, your profile says 2" lift 32" tires is this the yota being worked on?

 

That would be my old 2000, my " new" one is a 2004 double cab 3" lift ... I think I'm going to try what Black Dog Lila mentioned. . I didn't realize that would effect the bake bleeding process

 

Jerry, if the LSVP still has the rubber boot on the bottom pull it down and spray the parts inside with a penetrating oil. Your 2000 yota LSVP may have 2 bleeders and a rubber booted reset pin to push in and reset it. Maybe.

 

Pics on this thread may help. Keep in mind The LSPV issue here is too much rear brake. https://toyotanation.com/threads/rear-brake-job-cleaning-adjusting-lspv.364128

 

My leveling rod moves with no problem, and we can bleed at the vavle, just nothing at the wheels.. been on a 2 week road trip in maine so haven't had much time to mess with it but really need to get it figured up.. I know it's probably something simple

 

Gotta be a blockage in the line .

With the rusted lines not really a surprise