Rear Diff Breather (Relocation) Problems?

I just told them and they did it. The paperwork apparently confirmed the funky shifting and it feels so much better

 

How come something so simple can turn into a nightmare?

I ordered the parts mentioned in other post here on TW and last week I decided to do the mod.
I removed the left rear light, routed the hose and removed the factory breather, it came off fairly easy. When I tried installing the new one it wouldn't go in no matter what, not even even one tread. I tried many times and my neck start hurting so I decided to call it the day and install the old one back. It went in really easy just screwing with my fingers a few turns, used a wrench to snug tie the union and it would just turn and turn and turn and never get tight. Tried to revove again and would just turn and turn and it wouldn't come out. It pretty much turns both sides without getting tight or unscrewing out.

How much of a problem do I have now?

 

Pic of the union?

 

I bought a second one to try after I remove the factory, if I can remove it.

 

So, the union nipple you were attempting to install but it was not threading in properly so you took it out and then you put on the OEM breather and it went it but now when you try to remove it - its not threading out?

 

Exactly.

 

@foxrcing07 see above posts. Is it possible that when he was trying to thread the union in he stripped the threads on the rear diff?

 

You’ll be fine, just don’t put the diff under water until you get is resolved

 

Thats my plan, but now its personal, it affected my ego, I need to fix it.

 

You’ll get it fixed, I guarantee every person on here has done something even worse. I almost fucked up my front diff doing the ECGS when I dropped the end of the tool into it.

 

Once you get it out, you can most likely use thread sealer and install a new union.

Like I said, a lot of members have done worse as in stripping out fill and drain plugs in the diff and trans which are repairable

 

Like my dumbass decided to use a teethed monkey wrench to hold the top bolt of my rear shock to attempt to hold it in place. Turns out I fucked the threads so that the nut couldnt come all the way off. Had to turn that so hard that my wrench started to get hot

 

Yeah, they should put a hex nut on the top instead of a two sided tab

 

OP, try putting slight upward pressure with a thin screwdriver end between the union and diff and unscrew it off with the wrench

 

Relocated mine using parts outlined in:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-diff-vent-behind-the-tail-light-mod.286097/

Relocated to behind gas cap panel.

Last service under warranty i noticed some weeping of rear diff, (even though they had performed tsb back in december for an actual drip), so i had them check on it.

They said it was "normal", and noted in paperwork that diff breather was relocated and it had dirt debris on it, which tech blew off with air, kind of hinting that weeping was caused due to relocation.

Keeping an eye on if it gets worse, and if it does i'm testing breather (to make sure its not blocked for whatever reason), and take it back as it was on record that it was an issue at 35k (now 37.5k)...

 

I routed mine to the top of the cubby behind the gas filler - ready for extra high water! Now I just have to foam fill the cab interior!

 

I tried that but there's no space to fit even the smallest screwdriver between the diff and the union. Plus, the wrench is too tall preventing for using a vice grip plier from the top.

 

Can you get pictures of the union on the diff from 2 different angles,
If you did chew up the threads you are probably fine for now, but when you fix it you are probably going to want to drain the diff entirely, my guess it chewed up threads on the union,
Do you have pictures of the union you were trying to install

 

OMG...