Rear Diff Breather

I think the front already has an extended breather.

 

If it pukes fluid all the way through the tube, you have bigger problems -- like your truck is flipped over. I used the tail light location and just used a small crank case breather.

 

This ^^

 

I come from the jeep world and in one of my old grand cherokees the diff would occasionally squirt out some fluid even though the breather line was way up high. I had it routed near the tail light also and the fluid would would get all over the back of the taillight and drip down to my bumper. I never took the time to remove the taillight and check it. I figured that as long as it wasn't clogged it was all good. Granted that jeep was a rock crawler and would see extreme angles and stress on that rear diff when it was locked. Nothing was wrong with the diff either. I did the maintenance regularly and everything was always good. I plan on babying this Toyota. It's too expensive to crawl it. So you are probably right. But I still rather put the breather someplace else, so it's ready for me to actually crawl it when it hits 200k miles.

 

It does, the kit comes with 2 higher quality 2-way valves for the front.

 

I think I’d rather have it drip down behind the tail light than in the fuel neck / down the side of the truck. Also, I think there’s a vent there that goes to the evap.

 

LoL! Don't do this:



Attached to the tail of one of the accessory rail fasteners with safety wire and a jam nut.

I was heading out for some wheeling the next day and expecting some deep water. I wished that I had a stick-on zip tie anchor or knew about the tail light location idea.

The schmoo has not been released in the past couple years. No extreme angles though.

 

good point. I just thought it would be easier to notice and wipe down. But if there is an evap vent in that location I wouldn't want to get that clogged up either.

 

I've used axle breathers with remote outlets before. I generally think they are a good idea because moisture and contaminates in the lubricants will damage the gears, bearings, and differential components over time. Rust can be an issue, but secondary to the damage caused by decreased lubrication properties and increased abrasion from introduced grit. If you drop your lubricant and get a milkshake, the damage has already been done.

Many axles come with a pressure operated burp valve on top which are generally fine, however, if you find your axle getting submerged more than a dunk; e.g. sitting submerged on a boat ramp for an extended period, a long deep water crossing, or stuck in a submerged situation. Some water is going to get in. That water will have suspended contaminates in it, and while it may not cause a failure on the drive home it will do damage over time. How much do you think it would cost to change out the gear set, bearings and locking diff in one of our trucks? The mind wobbles.

I looked at the thread on putting one of these together. It seems okay, but I am not a fan of nippled fittings, rubber hose, and worm screw clamps. I've used AN fittings and PTFE or silicone hose in the past and they have worked well. Rubber hose cracks over time and will require watching. worm screw clamps loosen and require attention. a loose hose here is far more a concern than how well the factory setup keeps water out.

 

what do you have on your truck now?

 

Looks like it

 

I just checked that location. It appears the small hole at the bottom does not directly connect to that evap vent. I can see right through to the other side, so I assume it's their for water/ fuel spill drainage. I wonder if clogging that evap vent is possible doing something like the second picture below.

 

I have time today so I just crawled under to see if I can find that hole from the back. I could see it and managed to take a decent picture. I confirmed it's the same hole by closing the fuel door and I could no longer see it from the back. I think the image you posted is a diagrammatic representation of the system (which I can see those evap hoses in my picture). But it is not accurate in that the hole below the fuel cap doesn't directly connect to the vent hoses. The diagram must be leaving out the weep hole in the plastic compartment since in the context of the evap system the weep hole doesn't seem to be relevant. Thanks for going down this rabbit hole with me.

 

With a canopy on the bed and slot covers for the storage box this location now stays clean and dry.

 

My 2019 doesn't have the cubby on the driver side so I might do this with the cubby on the passenger side.

 

That should also work well.

 

Driver's side cubby seemed like an easy location to me.

 

Interesting. So that’s the fuel spillage hole and the one to the left must be vent eh?

eta: looks like it’s behind that bezel. That’s good to know

 

I believe that smaller hose and attached piece is the vent and valve.