Rear Diff Lock Anytime Mod 3rd Gen DEVELOPMENT

Thats good to know. I have zero experience with Elockers.
All I ever ran was a solid spool in the race cars.

 

It's been about a month. Do you have any updates?

 

I don't have a locker, but I will be getting harnesses made up for the 2Low mod. If anyone is interested in testing this theory let me know.

 

PM sent

 

I'm no wiring genius but I'm interested in this and am willing to experiment

 

This has been asked several times in the tune thread.

It seems like it should be possible (or atleast something could be done to disable the nannies so a manual switch could be used). But judging by his answer I don't think he wants to. Obviously there is a distinct difference between all the time and anytime... Its unfortunate because judging by the progress of this thread it doesn't seem possible to do it cleanly without software changes.

I've actually been pretty impressed by the brake limited slip in the snow, but if you want to do some sweet 2wd drifts VSC kicks in and and shuts it down. Sensible for driving on the the street in semi snowy/icy conditions (where 4wd would bind occasionally but 2wd makes stops signs difficult) but no fun for hooning (it would probably be pretty hard on the brakes too...).

 

I'm looking into possibly incorporating something into the 2low harness I'm putting together. I would like to have a cheap microcontroller or some other way to generate the PWM for the lower power locked condition. Ideally it would be a plug-in option for the 2low harness.

I don't have a locker on my truck, so development on my end will be slow.

 

If we can have 2low and locker anytime I'm interested. I have a manual so reversing with a trailer sucks in high but it's not enough to make me want to deal with it. Locker anytime and 2low would be. If you need someone to test things or take pictures of something for you let me know. There are lots of us that are interested, but I for one do not have the skills or knowledge to make it happen.

 

Well I finished building a plug and 'pray' 2lo+4wd spoofer. Completely plug and play if it works

This should allow 2lo (like existing mod), and separately locker actuation in 2hi or 4hi. (However it is not standalone control, it just spoofs ecu into thinking it is 4lo, when it isnt.. so it will be in 4lo throttle and shifting controls, and requires you to manipulate your 4wd dial, etc.)

So this isnt the solution that some people want. (OVtune is still your best bet for absolutely most elegant solution)

This hasnt been wrung out or smoke tested yet. Unfortunately I dont know when I will get to it... (not too excited about taking dash apart again). And it might light truck on fire or roast ECU.... so you have that.

 

So 4lo spoofer is a fail. I still need to wring out the harness to make sure I didn't make any mistakes, but I am pretty sure it is built to print.

I just don't think a simple electromechanical solution will work for 4lo spoofer like it does on 2Lo.

At this point, I am ceasing all development of 4lo spoof / Anytime lock, unless something new occurs.

To spoof the ECU is going to require a more computerized solution, or involve timers, etc. It just isnt worth it I think.

I will update the OP tomorrow or so with the major data of what I learned, for future 'generations'. For now, begging ovtune would be the best bet for most users.

If you really want to force the locker on, it is possible to replace the ECU control with PWM or a large power resistor and heatsink.

Just not feeling worth pursuing any more, on to other mods.

 

It doesn't sound like the 4-low spoof would be ideal anyway though since the ECU would be using the 4LO mappings. I agree taking manual control over the locker is probably the easiest way. If I understand correctly from the information you posted earlier, you can disable ESC and ABS by disconnecting the appropriate wire on the 40 pin connector right?

 

Unfortunately, the only effective one I have found does not go thru the 4wd ecu. Up on the skid/brake.

One of the 4wd actuator feedback sensors seems like it will do it, but I imagine the ECU will throw a code when it decides its a stuck (bad) sensor eventually. (I have not worked on intentionally, but that is how it looked when I had some bad wiring)

 

I wish I had time to contribute to this. I'm a computer engineering student (junior year) and would love to design a board that would spoof the 4wd ecu and allow anytime locker. I wonder if using a circuit in series with the 4wd module for only the locker wire and locker indicator light would work? If the truck doesn't know the locker is engaged then it can't throw and codes. I think a timer along with some op-amps configured for a voltage reducer would fit the bill to lock the locker? This could bypass the 4wd module and the truck wouldn't know the difference? The 4wd module wouldn't control the locker at all at this point.

I'm not too surprised no one has really put forth a solution yet. Most people don't use their locker and most that do won't use it outside of 4wd.

 

Got it, misunderstood the info in that .PDF. Yeah, that's not ideal either. I don't think I am going to pursue this any further. I'm hoping Mat can come up with something in software.

 

Agreed

2Lo still works pretty badass, and is useful as hell, so still have that victory. Maybe Mat can be convinced to give locker in 2hi and 4hi. (I recommended in the main alpha thread to maintain the other engagement lockouts on speed, etc... just loose the 4lo part). He seems reticent about the idea, but I bet with careful convincing he would do it at some point.

Thru all this I learned enough in the process to help anybody interested in doing manual locker control, or who installs a OR/Pro locker rear end in their Sport/SR/SR5/Limited, so that feels like a small victory at least.

Hoping you can get a production of 2Lo harness going.

 

Wonder if I should rename thread. To 'Failed'... Eh, who cares. Not total failure I guess.

At work tomorrow will try to document all major items that were learned

 

It's definitely happening, I'm just trying to get a vendor on the hook to put it all together. I've got no interest in crimping 60+ terminals and doing all the soldering myself. You don't blame me for that though i'm sure! I'm entertaining having the connectors sourced from the same Japanese supplier and getting a place on Alibaba to make them up. I'm skeptical about quality of workmanship and I will be getting one made as a sample before committing. I had ordered the parts and correct wire to make an official sample to supply a vendor, but somehow ordered the wrong crimp terminals for the 40 pin connector. They are on order but probably won't be here until next week.

 

This is similar to the approach I have laid out. Using discrete components a logic chip and a few timers. However, to insure proper activity under all conditions, , the circuit became rather large and cumbersome. I have another member reviewing it. However, I must admit that even if it does look capable, it is not an "elegant" solution and would need refinement before a prototype could attempted.

Although a microcomputer, introduced to interrupt the ECU and allow operation is probably more easily integrated, it is not method I am sold on and don't feel comfortable tackling at this time.

Yup, it was a fun academic exercise, but in the end, it may be best to let this one go and wait to see what Mat can do.

 

I think your method would work, but you can definitely accomplish the same thing (two level engagement and locked pwm) with a cheap and small microcontroller. My concern is with disabling traction control and ABS when you have manual control of the locker. I'm not willing to leave that out of the locker anytime mode. Splicing into ABS ECU wiring under the hood is a bit further than I am willing to go. Plug and play (reversible) harnesses are one thing, but modifying stock wiring that controls safety systems is another.

 

Yeah, I can understand, that is for sure.
I know labor in those places is pennies, but I don't know they can assemble stuff for the prices...

Note, the 12 pin connector I ended up with didnt quite fit with the truck side of the cables. (Had to cut off on rib from it, but then it seems like it fit fine).