Rear Diff Lock Anytime Mod 3rd Gen DEVELOPMENT

I am just trying to get a deeper understanding of why the wire mod is there since it seems to be an unnecessary step all together; did they find a problem that prompted figuring that out, or simply copying Toyota’s setting configuration? If I leave it like this and loan my truck out, do I specifically need to have a “don’t get curious and push this button or the truck’s computers will all simultaneously explode” talk?

We’ll just have to speculate until someone involved in development of this mod chimes in, cause even if the programmers at Toyota and/or their suppliers who make this stuff sure aren’t going to say anything.

 

its a single ground wire tap in the cab not affected by the elements. not seeing what the big deal is anyways?

 

It really isn't. I just wanted to test to see if it works without it, then it's 100 percent plug and play. If it works which it seems to then I'll just turn off traction myself no need to touch any factory wiring. Win win

 

Yeah, but breaking the insulation means you run a risk of an electron leak. Then I would REALLY have a lot of questions.

 

I know im late to the fourm but did you find anyone in the LA area that made your locker an anytime locker

 

Somewhere on this thread someone asked for confirmation of the duty cycle of the Pulse Width Modulation to the locker coil. According to TechStream, my readings were 77% to lock and ~50% (46-54%) after lock at ~10VDC.

 

I have been following this post for a while and just been going over all the information that has been provided. It does seem pretty complex, but there’s gotta be a way that can simplify turning it on and off. I’m looking at my pigtail that goes onto the diff there’s literally just four wires is there something that we are overlooking or looking too hard into but I definitely invested a lot of time on my own, trying to figure it out and all your information is truly God sent, and I really think we can make it happen because as these trucks become older, these parts are gonna become more available and more people are gonna want to do this mod That’s my opinion

 

on my truck I deleted abs/add actuator/got rid of the electronic transfer case, so I just totally ditched the factory wiring and hooked up power/ground to the locker. Worked great, so you can do that if you delete everything else

 

so I’m taking all my notes down from this whole thread. And when you say you ditch the factory wiring, are you still keeping the pigtail that comes out of the diff and if so, how did you wire it up with just power and ground because from my understanding in this thread the actual actuator can’t take 12 to 14 V so I’m definitely interested in how you did yours because if that’s the case I can have this done today lol