Rear diff stripped drain plug

Really good point about the metal chips...I have a small magnetic pick-up tool. You think I could use that? I could try to put a quart of gear oil in to flush out the extra chips before refilling

Edit; would this m18 tap work?

$26 Drill America - DWTSMT18X1 m18 x 1 High Speed Steel Plug Tap, (Pack of 1)

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Americ...words=drill+and+tap+m18&qid=1585322409&sr=8-4

 

Once you get the new replacement drain plug a hardware store like Ace or Lowe's will have the proper Tap to clean up threads. I think it's 16mm x 1.5 Use a Ratchet and socket if you don't own the tapping tool. Install the new plug fill and drain to help remove any metal shavings.

 

Yeah that might work for as little as you'll using it. Im not sure what pitch the stock plug is but Id think youd want to match the new one fairly close.

Not totally sure about the chips to be honest. Might be able to get a paper towel in there before you start the work.. Im not sure. Also a magnetic drain plug is probably a really good idea. Maybe flush it after 1k miles or something

 

Appreciate all the input. I'll add this to my quarantine list. Will probably see if the local dealership can order a magnetic plug. What about JB welding on a small magnet on the end of the plug?

 

Id just get a custom one to exactly what you need. Theres a particular brand a lot of people on here use when doing the front diff service, cant recall the name. This was just what I found on quick google search
https://www.zeroleak.com/product/magnetic-plugs/

 

https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/transmission/magnetic-drain-plugs/
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America/dp/B0834D37W7

 

Please let me know if any of this sounds off:

-OEM Drain Plug Size (M16x1.5)
- On hand I will have: 75-90 Oil +extra for flushing, new M16x1.5 OEM drain bolt (or yotamaster one recommended by Black Dog Lila), tap kit (with M16x1.5 and M18x1.5 sizes), M18x1.5 magnetic replacement bolt (From Zeroleak, recommended by SR-71A).

1. Remove fill plug successfully first
2. Remove drain bolt (attempt screwdriver method)
3. Attempt to restore thread by rethreading with an M16x1.5 tap (dont have any specific plug taps, but I could buy if recommended)
4. If that fails, Re-tap bolt hole with M18x1.5 Tap
5. wipe clean as much of the threads/inside of diff with shop towel
6. Use magnetic pickup tool to remove more metal shavings
7. replace drain bolt
8. flush 1 quart of gear oil through diff
9. re-wipe with shop towels/magnetic tool; check for metal shavings
10. if metal shavings found, repeat steps 5-9 until free of metal shavings
11. refill diff w/ gear oil to standard
12. As recommended, swap diff fluid again at 1k miles. Check for metal shavings

 

I had the exact same issue, I used some JB Weld to try and slow the drip, eventually I took it to a frame and axle shop they got the old plug out and then re tapped the threads to use a bigger plug/gasket, someone probably over torqued it till it striped

 

yes

 

Thanks man. Although this is for a second gen...I miss my 2001. Will probably buy a beater single cab 1st gen in a couple years or so for fun.

 

M16 coarse thread helicoil set (actual helicoil brand) on Amazon is $55, and includes the drill bit, tap and 6 helicoils. That sounds a lot better than $170.

 

I've never used something like that before. Would that be better to buy and use that than just trying to rethread my M16x1.5 tap through?

Edit: Don't care too much about total cost. I decided not to buy a new drill press this month so I have some extra free spending money that I could spend on some new tools. Hard to have enough tools..

Update: Called the parent company of Zeroleak and they sent me a free M18x1.5 drain plug (they normally just do bulk orders for companies). Ordered the standard plug from yotamasters. Now we just wait. Thank you for all the help guys. I've got everything else besides the helicoil, which i will also order if the consensus is in favor. Trying to have everything on hand so I dont have to give this a second go. End blog post.

 

Thats pretty cool of them

 

If you can just clean up the existing threads with a tap, that would be the best. I couldn't comment on whether a helicoil or drill and tap to a bigger size would be better. I can say that I've used helicoils before (spark plug hole and cylinder head stud hole) and didn't have any issues afterwards.

And no, you cannot have enough tools

 

Drill it out and tap it out bigger, oh man there has to be a better way! How about weld it closed and suck out the old from the fill? Cheap guy fix!

 

You know the irony is that it's barely even leaking! I'd say a drop will form on the bolt every couple weeks to a month. And it never gets big enough to fall. The oil is clear and only has about 15k miles in it. I just foresee welding that bolt on leading to problems 100k miles down the line, that I could never even predict. Its a good suggestion though and would definitely get the job done. Also, I don't have a welder..yet

 

clean the fuck out of it, and jb weld it. 100,000 miles! Thats a problem for future you, MAYBE?

 

Yeah, I actually carry a tube of Red RTV and some JB weld in my truck specifically for a 'just in case leak'. The problem is, I don't want to check my R Diff fluid 30k miles down the line and be repulsed at the contamination level...and not be able to swap it out.

How easy would It be to dremel away RTV?

 

This^^^^^^^^^ done this many times in my 72 yrs. Take your time turning the plug with a small amount of outward pressure

 

Might not have to if it's the plug bolt, thread's could be fine on the diff housing, maybe chase the threads on the housing once you get the bolt out and get a new plug.

You could also get a suction gun and suck the oil out the filler hole, most of it anyway. Refill call it good.

Most of the time it's the grease monkeys in the lube shops that damage this from overtightening or cross threading or both.