Rear doors won't open after speaker install

There is a thread here where a guy switched the 2 cables to the rear door lock and had this same issue, I think... search some more...!

But that would not make BOTH doors stop working, unless you switched BOTH, of course..!

 

x2. I'm guessing that you accidentally unplugged the lock solenoids and locked the doors.
The interior handles would stop with the child locks, but not the exterior.

Unfortunately, I've been in your shoes before. Here is what I would do:
1. Thank God that I stopped at the rear doors.
2. Remove a front seat or fold it as far forward as possible.
3. Pick a side and remove the rear seat starting with the cushion and see if you can get enough room to pop your panel again.
4. Carefully remove the handle screws, etc and pop as many of the fasteners you can. You may have to damage some but you can get replacements.
5. Try to slide the panel up so that you can pry / clear the top hook from the window slot. Remove the panel. The metal will bend, but that's ok it will bend back.

Once your panel has been removed take a flashlight and check for what you missed. My guess the problem will become apparent.

Regarding locksmiths, you can call around and just be up front with what the problem is. They will tell you what they can or can't do.
Just remember, they tend to care less than you do about fit and finish.

Did you mention what year your truck is?

 

It's almost like both doors are stuck in the locking position. When I use the remote to unlock I hear a strange noise like it's trying to unluck, like a rubbing sound, noise is difficult to explain.

BTW my truck is a 16

 

Then we are on the right track. The solenoid needs room to actuate, if blocked it will just vibrate a bunch. Did you use sound deadening materials? Sorry to say but you have to get into that panel to open the door. Once you are in it you can look for the trouble.

 

What happens when you try to manually unlock the doors?

 

No I did not use deadening material.

I called a locksmith, he told me he's seen this happen many times. He believes the screws I used to attach the speaker to the door were too long which bowed the door panel out just enough to cause the lock to not engage. Told me to tinker with the panel first before he came out.

This is interesting and I hope he's right. I know for a fact I buttoned that door back up properly

 

I mean no offense here, but if that were true we wouldn't be having this nice chat. You will find it, and it's quite possible that he is right. It may not be the screws, it could be the speaker depth too.

Needless to say test everything before you close her up next time. You can even test the door latch by using a screw driver in the place of the door latch.

 

OK, another idea. Get someone to help you with this. Since the locksmith thinks that the panel is bowed, preventing the door from seating correctly, and you hear rubbing when you operate the solenoid. Instead of trying to open the door, have someone push the door closed as hard as they can (just not bending the door). Operate the door unlock and see if you can 't get the mechanism to move. I think that is the last stitch effort before you have got to get behind the panels.

 

I was able to free the driver side door by simply pressing on the panel from the inside. I also disconnected the battery in hopes the lack of power would cause it to disengage since it appears both doors are stuck in the locking postion. I will play with the other side tomorrow, don't have time to finish today. I will remove both panels once i have them open to ensure the screws aren't the problem ect...

It is obvious that either the screws are too long or the speaker/bracket is too deep. I called crutchfield and confirmed fitment, all checked out fine. I'll report back my findings tomorrow. Thanks for your help!

 

You bet! Please do report back so that someone else can avoid the same thing. Congrats!

 

This happened to me. Accident reversed the cables. Lock and unlock the doors from inside. If you see the lock move just a little bit you have a chance.

Lock and unlock the doors. At the same time Pull on the interior handle. The timing has to be just right so try it more than a few times.

I also had the release cable get loose my only option was to get it into the dealer. I was straightforward with them, told em I f'd it up. They took the the truck to the bay and drove it back out working as it should.
I have no idea what they did. I wish I did though.

 

Scratched my head all day about this. Even though I'm certain the problem is fixed and it was a fitment issue, I still can't get over why the doors could not be opened from the outside. The only cables that were touched were for the interior handle. I'm assuming the cable that is attached to the outside handle is inside the door which can't be seen. I didn't touch anything on the inside of the door where that cable would be.

 

I was unable to open the passenger side using the same methods as I used on the driver side rear door. I gave up for now and decided to install the front speakers. Immediately I noticed the front door brackets crutchfield supplied were not nearly as deep as the rear brackets and much easier to install.

I had two conversions with crutchfield regarding this issue and both times they assured me the rear brackets were the correct ones and they were just as stumped as I was.

The bottom line is there is no doubt in my mind the issue I'm having is a result of bad fitment from the bracket and or speaker combo. At this point if I'm unable to open the door I may have no choice but to have dealership look at it.

Thanks again

 

I don't mind pulling my rear passenger door panel off and doing some testing to see what combination prevents the door from unlatching or unlocking.
It's acting like the door lock mech is not being engaged/disengaged thus when you pull on the handle you get nothing, but you can see the lock tab flip when you use the keyless.
Let me know if you want me to help out.

 

Thanks for the offer but I don't know if that would help any and that may put you in the same boat as me. Correct me if I'm wrong but to replicate you would need same speaker/bracket combo?

Honestly think I'll get it with just playing around with it some more. But if not off to the dealer I go...

 

Solving these kind of problems is part of what I do for work.
I would not be putting myself in your boat by actually closing the door to make my tests. You can simulate closing the door by manually latching the latch with a screw driver and can release it by pulling the handle and manually unlatchinng it. it may be possible to simulate your symptoms without youtbspeakers and brackets

 

Or perhaps even focusing on seeing if it's possible to access the locking mechanism from outside via some tool. This is exactly what toyota will do to try and solve the issue.

 

That would be awesome!

 

I'm working until about 7:30 today.
I'll get at the truck when I get home and update as I take pictures and what-not.

 

I'm away for work so my truck is outside and it's raining so it's a no go for getting anything done.
We'll try again tomorrow.