Rear drum too hot

History of vehicle as follows: Bought a Taco that was hit in the rear end. Replaced the housing as it was bent,had the runout of the axles checked and drivers side was out a bit. Had drivers side straightened and bearing and housing replaced with Timken. Reassembled axle and put in in the truck. Replaced shoes with OEM and all new springs.Turned drums. Adjusted brakes and went to DMV.When I arrived I could smell brakes,was unable to correct problem with no tools. When I got home and jacked it up I could barely spin the wheel. Readjusted brakes.Went for a forty mile drive and realized the drums were hot as hades. Readjusted brakes.Drum still too hot. With adjuster backed off drum rubs in 1/3 of the rotation only.Figured I had badly warped the drums and bought new OEM drums. Still rubs in 1/3 of the rotation which I think is cause of the heat.I have a replacement cylinder in case it is sticking for that side,warranteed new shoes and I changed the flex hose in case it was checking the fluid to the cylinder.I noticed the axle shop pressed the housing on with the ABS sensor in the back instead of the front where wiring indicates it should be (just an observation).I am debating having the runout rechecked as its only 4 nuts when I get into changing the cylinder/shoes. It seems I have covered it all,does anybody have thoughts on this issue? First time poster but I will be around.Thanks-B

 

First thoughts are that you should have just replaced the entire rearend as one unit. You possibly have air in the system. Your shoe springs are installed incorrectly.

Are you checking the drum rub with a tire on/torqued? If the drum is free hanging, your check is invalid. Make sure your mounting flange surfaces are clean and free of debris that could cause excessive runout. Replace the cylinder while you're at it too. You want free flowing fluid, proper spring tensions and clean/greased moving parts to return shoe to proper resting position.

EDIT: Your abs sensor concern is confusing. the sensor has a single off-the-side tab for mounting. it only goes on one way. If he clocked it differently on the axle, then no sweat as long as the wires can reach it without being stretched.

 

Yea if I did it again I certainly would get a complete unit.Springs are on correctly,was bled properly and I cleaned the mounting surfaces. I sanded the contact points of the shoes.I was checking it with two lugs nuts on opposite sides but not fully torqued. I will change the wheel cyl and install the new OEM parts.So should I send the axle out for a recheck?Thoughts? Thanks-B

 

The axle is going back to the axle shop for recheck,I am already here and its 4 nuts,easier for changing the cylinder anyway.Everything will be new when it gets reassembled.

 

Axle is completely straight. When I put the drum on and rotate the backing plate the backing plate appears to be off 1/8"as witnessed by the gap between the drum changing during rotation.Can this account for the heat,or cause problems adjusting the shoes?Thanks-B

 

Subd

 

Not sure what Subd means.

 

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