Rear drums, swap w/ 4runner?

The fluid flush is a solid idea. You already stated that you upgraded your front rotors the next step would be to change compound on the front pads. EBC makes a bunch off pads that are scaled in a green yellow red compounds. I dont know if they make drum brakes but brake fade does have a lot to due with compound.

 

I wonder if Tacoma rear brakes still use a load sensing proportioning valve. On my pre-95 trucks I'd eliminate it and plumb a manual proportioning valve in. Was nice being able to set the bias to my liking. I can't remember if my 06 had one or not, I did burn up two sets of rotors in 250,000 kilometers and still had 20% remaining on the oem rear shoes.

To answer your question, no the 4runner axle is not a direct swap. You will need to cut the coil spring buckets off and weld leaf spring perches on. You will need additional parts and theres no telling if it's plug and play (abs components, master cylinder etc)

 

+1 on making sure the fluid is good.

Consider -- that hill has been there a while, right? What did everyone do for all the many years before any manuf put discs on the rear axles of cars and trucks?

Or how about when they were four wheel drum brakes? That and three-speed column shift manual transmission was lots of fun.

 

Drain the DOT 3 brake fluid and replace with DOT 5.1 (NOT DOT 5 silicone fluid) DOT 5.1 has a 100° higher boiling point than the factory DOT 3 brake fluid. Ditch the stock disc brake pads that have iron fillings in the brake pad material, replace with sintered bronze or ceramic pad material. Don't worry about the rear, it isn't the problem.

 

Hehe those were the days when there wasn't traffic, so they could fly all the way down! I seriously like the idea of larger front rotors though. More surface area, more pistons in the caliper. I'm thinking that could solve my problem. More front brake to rely on when the backs get hot

 

The mushy feeling on the brake pedal is not the pad material no longer gripping the disc because it has become slippery. It's symptomatic of boiling brake fluid. When the brake fluid is hot enough to boil it will contain tiny bubbles, these bubbles change the previously incompressible fluid into a compressible mixture of fluid mixed with gas...you feel that as a mushy pedal. Mushy, collapsible fluid doesn't have the same grip strength.

 

What maintained road in America is so steep its burning up brakes with responsible driving?

 

Go down the hill in reverse.

 

May i ask why the breaks smoke when that mushy feeling occurs? My belief is that the break pads get so hot that the breaking strength is lessened. If you keep using the breaks you'll start smoking the pads, and might deform the rotors.

Edit- just to be clear i don't smoke my brakes. It's just the smoke comes from the break pads, so i'd believe the extreme heat lessens the resilience of the pad and lowers the strength of the pads

 

Have you ever adjusted them? Most of the people here love the drums and have "no" problems and they "last" for hundreds of thousands of miles. Well that's because when they go out of adjustment they don't even work so you just brake primarily with the front. They actually think not touching your shoes for 215k miles is a good thing. LOL

 

Your brakes are smoking? That means the metal is on fire which is crazy talk.

Pics or it didn't happen.

 

If the fluid is compressing, it doesn't push on the pistons hard enough to push the pads against the disc, if it isn't pushing hard enough, the pads slip on the disc surface a lot more than is required, friction is increased because it's slipping more than slowing, creating a lot more heat. The heat transfers directly to the pads the pads smoke, eventually the pad surfaces glazes, once the surface is glazed it doesn't grip as well. It's a vicious cycle.

The answer is: DOT 5.1 fluid, organic or sintered bronze or ceramic pads, It really is that simple. (I use organic pads on high performance motorcycles, sintered bronze on heavy touring bikes and ceramic on cars/trucks)
Do you know why they put iron fillings in brake pad material? To create heat. Heat is the enemy of braking. But for lawyers it's good, it dries out wet brake pads from driving in the rain. Everything is a trade-off. The iron destroys rotors. That's why the "lifetime guarantee" pads are a good deal for the parts store. They sell you these high iron content pads, you chew up rotors as a brisk pace, they sell you a few sets of rotors before they ever have to give you a free set of cheap ass pads.

 

It's the actual break pads. Haven't you seen a semi-truck with overheating breaks? They smoke heaps too. I thought this was a common occurance. Maybe im potentially one of the few looking for better brakes

 

Thank you, i'll try your recomendation this weekend.

 

Ya a semi truck with burned breaks carrying 18 Tons down the the Eisenhower of I-70 vs a Toyota Tacoma with a GVWR of 5600lbs with better braking than many vehicles in its weight class.

I dont think you are the few looking for better brakes I think you are the exception who has a significant brake problem that needs looked at by the dealer or are a terrible driver or just trolling.

You have yet to tell us what road you are driving down, because I want to check this out.

 

I wasn't looking for an agressive response from everyone. I love the tacoma, there is no doubt about it. I was searching for constructive ideas to improve braking, not trying to get emotional reactions. I will change the brake fluid this weekend desmodue recommended, and search for some organic or ceramic style pads.
I am sorry if i offended anyone here, it was intended to be a simple brake recommendation.
Thank you to everyone for helping. I wasn't meaning to criticize the brakes.

 

Booster - I was thinking about the problem you are experiencing and want to add this...

Make sure that the disc brake pistons are fully retracting when you release the pedal. Some drag is expected, but if the pistons do not completely release the constant brake pressure will cause the brakes to overheat. When I have seen this condition it was always caused by a dirty or faulty check valve at the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir. It doesn't take much sediment or other foreign material to make the tiny check valve malfunction. Good Luck.

 

Thank you. I've tried spinning all 4 wheels with the cars on blocks. Fortunately the brakes aren't rubbing. I'll check the fluid and pads. Hopefully that solves it.