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Rear end leaking

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Emmetjmcc4, Dec 16, 2019.

  1. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:28 AM
    #1
    Emmetjmcc4

    Emmetjmcc4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just yesterday noticed my rear end leaking, wouldn't really know where to start. 20191216_084745.jpg
     
  2. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:31 AM
    #2
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    check your diff breather first. Could just be building pressure. Clean it out. Drop old fluid and put some new in. Cheap route first
     
  3. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:36 AM
    #3
    Colchicine

    Colchicine Well-Known Member

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  4. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:41 AM
    #4
    mechanicjon

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    Clean it off real good with some brake clean and drive it 1 mile. Then come back and check it. With that pattern of leak I'd say it was a rust hole in the housing.
     
  5. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:11 AM
    #5
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking the same thing.
    OP, check that the diff breather is allowing the diff to vent pressure properly. If you find the oil is from a rust hole you can try to clean the oil off as best you can and use a 2 part epoxy glue stuff, like jbweld. There might be a jbweld or similar specifically for using on holes meant to plug gas or oil.
    Dude @Emmetjmcc4 this rusty taco sucks bro. I know you just got this one, but as rusty as it is would it be better to list it and look for something else until you find the right/less rusty Tacoma? Or do you know already that you have to make this taco work for ya so you don't have a choice really?
     
  6. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:18 AM
    #6
    agalloch07

    agalloch07 Well-Known Member

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    that oil trail is not coming from the breather you can see the breather in the pic. The axle is rusted through most likely you need to weld it up and cover it all in oil to prevent future rust or replace the axle.
     
  7. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:21 AM
    #7
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    I'll start my response the same way I start any post that involves a rust [something]:

    Whats your frame look like? The frames on these trucks are the most vulnerable, so if your diff housing looks like this, your frame can't be too far off.

    As others said, this could just be your diff breather. Definitely clean all that crap off real good and that may expose your problem right away (rusty hole), but if the housing looks intact, your diff might be building pressure (clogged diff breather).

    EDIT, yeah, that's not your diff breather, even though that is pretty caked, too.

    If you have a hole, there are a couple options: There is a weld-on diff cover you can get. Cut this one off, weld new one on. But with this much rust, I'd look for a whole new housing to swap. Figure out what gear ratio you have and find a replacement.

    But that's really only if the rest of your frame is in good condition to warrant the fix. Definitely check your frame/underside bumper to bumper to assess if it's worth it to fix.
     
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  8. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:22 AM
    #8
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Pro tip: if you do want to try and fix this axle, make sure you can remove the fill bolt BEFORE you remove the drain bolt.
     
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  9. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:30 AM
    #9
    Emmetjmcc4

    Emmetjmcc4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm in a position where I have to make this work until I can save some cash to go down south and find one. Just bought a house so I'm in the middle of transitioning my budget to afford everything.
     
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  10. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:32 AM
    #10
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Alright, brake clean the housing off very well. You're trying to find where there will be a little pinhole leak or crack. Once you locate it, clean it as close to perfect as you can and then plug it up with an epoxy. Hopefully that works and gets you by for a while man
     
  11. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:34 AM
    #11
    Texoma

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
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  12. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:36 AM
    #12
    Emmetjmcc4

    Emmetjmcc4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you all for the suggestions, I will clean it up and see where it's coming from. Ill have to do it tomorrow after work, and its gonna be fun outside cold and probably snowing.
     
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  13. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:37 AM
    #13
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    You need a whole new rear end that's where to start...holy corrosion. If you put a new diff cover on it's just a matter of time before it leaks elsewhere based on that photo. Might be able to find a rear axle in better condition at the local yards, or even on here they pop up from time to time
     
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  14. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:42 AM
    #14
    Texoma

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    What size is your rear end? 8.4" or 8"? I have an 8.4, rust free.
     
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  15. Dec 16, 2019 at 10:43 AM
    #15
    Emmetjmcc4

    Emmetjmcc4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is just a temporary rig until I can get down south to find a clean truck, I'm trying to dump as little money into this truck as possible to hopefully sell it and not lose my ass on it.
     
  16. Dec 16, 2019 at 1:13 PM
    #16
    frenchee

    frenchee Favorite Member

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    Yeah good luck welding on a thick diff cover to that rotted out steel. Gonna go down a rabbit hole doing that. Not something I'd do. I'd go with a new axle long term.

    This might sound totall crazy but hear me out. I once had a BMW E30 with an s50 swap. The oil pans are notorious for getting smashed. The pan was sitting 1" off the ground. One morning I go to grab my car and... big oil puddle.
    They actually sell skid plates for those bmws because this happens.
    Anyways... Swapping the pan is a big pain in the ass on those, so for a temporary fix I JB welded the oil pan!!! I drained the oil but there was still some inside (obv). I applied the JB weld and I had a napkin to soak up the oil flowing form the JB weld I had applied... At one point the oil stopped going through the JB. Next day I went to check on it and no leak. I drove the car for I wont tell you how long like that.

    TLDR:
    If you're desperate, buy 6 sticks of JB weld. Empty the diff. Scrub the hell out of the cover. Then scrub it again. Dry it off as much as possible. You will always have oil cus of the porosity, then mix all your JB weld and spread it like icing on a cake.

    I'm really not kidding. This is assuming the metal is rusted out. My moped gas tank was like that and it was the biggest nightmare. I would fill a pin hole on the tank, 3 more would pop up.

    Good luck!
     
  17. Dec 16, 2019 at 1:32 PM
    #17
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I kinda agree with you here. Always nice to have someone chime in and say they've actually done it and it worked for them. :D:fingerscrossed:
     
  18. Dec 16, 2019 at 2:12 PM
    #18
    Digiratus

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    That's an 8" diff, not the 8.4. Drain hole is on the driver side of the axle.
     
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  19. Dec 16, 2019 at 2:16 PM
    #19
    Texoma

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    And locker wiring is visible as well.
     
  20. Dec 16, 2019 at 4:24 PM
    #20
    Kiloyard

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