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Rear Leaf Install...

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by yoTaco98, Dec 24, 2011.

  1. Dec 24, 2011 at 6:32 PM
    #1
    yoTaco98

    yoTaco98 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Guys,

    I've done 3 different searches and I can't find any write ups.

    I got my All-Pro leafs and Eibach front coils.

    The fronts are easy for me, but I was just wondering how hard it is to install the rear leafs?

    Are there any write-ups out there?

    Any help would be appreciated.



    AlSO, I have 5100's on the front, and am planning on dropping them to 0' with the Eibach coils. Should this keep me level with the All-Pro Standard 3" leafs?

    Or should I set the 5100's to 1" to compensate for the OEM lower front.


    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Dec 24, 2011 at 8:10 PM
    #2
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Are you sure your searches were in this forum ??:D

    I've got a couple threads in regards to rear leaf spring rebuilds/installs/1st gen/2nd gen etc;

    Anyway the Eibachs with the 1st gen adustable 5100's set at 0 will give you 3" of lift in front..

    leaf spring R&R's are pretty straight forward, much easier on a 1st gen mainly because of the rear shackle hassle the 2nd gens have, but you'll need jack stands, at least one floor jack (pre. 2) 1 jack under the rear diff & 1 right under the yoke where it connects to the drive shaft (because the diff. is going to want to roll forward on you when everything is loose & you lower jack to seperate the axle from leaf spring) or you can mark a bolt & flange where the yoke & shaft bolt together this marks original location for balance when you re attach, I can do all this by myself but its better to have 2 people doing it ( Although sometimes when a member comes to OMD for a susp. lift you may end up with 10 guys , 2 or 3 empty pizza boxes, & a pile of empty aluminum beverage containers if ya know what I mean:D:D:cheers::cheers:
     
  3. Dec 24, 2011 at 8:18 PM
    #3
    DreDog

    DreDog Well-Known Member

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    You literally unbolt the old ones, and bolt the new ones in. I started a thread jut like this one for help. And it's really easy, just put some jacks under your axle so it doesn't drop to the floor. Done!
     
  4. Dec 25, 2011 at 7:03 AM
    #4
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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  5. Dec 25, 2011 at 11:34 AM
    #5
    yoTaco98

    yoTaco98 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is perfect, thank you!
     
  6. Dec 25, 2011 at 11:46 AM
    #6
    90YotaPU

    90YotaPU The Messiah

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    If you have no problem with the front ones, the back ones are cake.
     
  7. Dec 26, 2011 at 3:03 PM
    #7
    yoTaco98

    yoTaco98 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just one question....

    In the above write up, they did not disconnect the yoke/shaft.

    Do I need to do this?
     
  8. Dec 26, 2011 at 3:19 PM
    #8
    G scott04

    G scott04 ...

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    Not at all
     
  9. Dec 27, 2011 at 12:01 AM
    #9
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Not at all....
    Just be careful when you drop the axle. Keep an eye on your brake lines and slip yoke. You don't want to drop the axle too far or else damage/break the brake lines or pull the yoke out.

    Do one side at a time.
     
  10. Dec 27, 2011 at 12:28 AM
    #10
    oneshot808

    oneshot808 Well-Known Member

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    Wet Okoles/Weather tech all around, LED's +HIDS, Tinted Tails, Small kine 2"ish lift with 5100s + OME884 with rear AAL Fabtech, Alpine all around. lots of dents covered by OBEY stickers on back bumper
    It took me longer to do my AAL but the reason why was because we didn't have the proper tools to compress the leaf pack to screw the bolt back on. but like everybody said keep a jack under the axel and do one side at a time.
     
  11. Dec 27, 2011 at 10:47 AM
    #11
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    I included 2 ways to do it with the drive shaft on (using 2 floor jacks)

    or dropping drive shaft (marking the flange where shaft & yoke bolt up so it goes back together the way it was originally)
     
  12. Dec 30, 2011 at 1:09 PM
    #12
    yoTaco98

    yoTaco98 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks 4WD! I got a second set of jack stands, so that will help.


    Does anyone know if I'll need new u-bolts with the 3" All-Pro's?

    I got everything I believe I needed today for tomorrow's install. I'm just worried I'll have it all off and realize I need new U-bolts because of length.
     
  13. Dec 30, 2011 at 1:18 PM
    #13
    jflan

    jflan Well-Known Member

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    They do recommend new U-bolts whenever you do spring work.
    It's a mission-critical part where if it fails you could lose control of the vehicle.

    In my reality if the old bolts still look good and are long enough for the new spring, I'll reuse and re-torque after a couple hundred miles.
    Can't recommend it though.

    ;)
     
  14. Dec 30, 2011 at 5:53 PM
    #14
    2 crown j

    2 crown j Active Member

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    I have mine 85 % torn apart. need to get 10 flare wench before going any further. I called ALLPRO to ask about u-bolts and was told that I Need longer ones.I was told to get ahold of 4 wheel parts to get longer ones. It looks like all my work today was for not. They have to order the longer u-bolts.
     
  15. Dec 30, 2011 at 5:57 PM
    #15
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    This is pretty much the size of it, Always best when re doing springs but I've had my stock ones off & on several times & will always re use as long as the thread stretch isn't too bad.

    OP, you may or may not need longer U bolts, if you dump the overload spring I'd say you're good 2 go...

    Did you remember extended brake line/lines ??
     
  16. Dec 30, 2011 at 6:09 PM
    #16
    Bobber Bill

    Bobber Bill Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like he's doing brake lines if he's running out to pick up a 10mm flare wrench. BTW, you can break those fittings with a pair of vise grips
     
  17. Dec 30, 2011 at 6:28 PM
    #17
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Or maybe he's just disconnecting the lines to drop axle
     
  18. Dec 30, 2011 at 6:47 PM
    #18
    jflan

    jflan Well-Known Member

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    Some of these shops carry a lame excuse for a leaf spring U-bolt.
    With their coarse thread and short, common nuts I often wonder what grade they really are.

    Most bona fide spring shops will bend U-bolts for you on the spot.
    And they will be the real ones.
     
  19. Dec 30, 2011 at 6:51 PM
    #19
    jflan

    jflan Well-Known Member

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    Let him use the flare nut wrench.
    Nothin' worse than finding a flare nut that has been rounded out by someone with a pair of pliers :eek:
    Even an open end will fuk 'em up.
     
  20. Dec 30, 2011 at 7:36 PM
    #20
    2 crown j

    2 crown j Active Member

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    Sorry OP( yo taco 98 ) for the h/j sounds like were doing the same thing on the same day. See poll I just started about the use of a Axel shim Maybe helpful or just add to the confusion.
     
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