Rear Locker Wiring

Hey all,

The connector for my rear locker is damaged and i can't find anywhere that will sell me one. Is the connector just there to aide in removal of the diff assembly? Will i be fine if i remove the connector and hardwire my rear locker?

Is the rear locker activated by the switch on the dash only?

Thanks

 

goodluck ^

i pull e-lockers all the time with the actuators and wiring harness for it..
you'd be lucky to find a e-locker in a junkyard.

best bet is to look for 96+ Limited 4Runners and get one from there..

 

because i sell em to people on Marlin Crawler

and no not really...I said I pull them all the time as in..I search for them all the time and don't see em much and when they do come up..I get them...
Sorry if that was mis-leading and confusing..

 

Cool, thanks nmcqueen280! So i'm safe in assuming i can bypass this connector and hardwire it there, right?

Yea, UndefinedTaco, i've checked the local pick-a-part, i'm lucky to even find a base Tacoma. Finding a TRD with a e-locker would be a miracle!

 

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for this rear locker? My truck is a '99 5VZ-FE California.

All the e-locker installs I have read use different wiring colors.

Here are my wire colors:

From car harness:
Light Green
White-Black
Green-Red
Green-Black
Green-Yellow

From diff:
Yellow
Dark Green
Light Green
Black
Green-Red

As you can see, my wire colors don't match. I'm trying to hardwire the e-locker since I am missing the 8-pin connector.

Thanks all

 

Thanks nmcqueen280, I did check that out, but my wiring colors are different. Even though it's OEM (unless I'm reading it wrong or colorblind).

 

Yea, I have all the wires crimped, just need to know which one goes to which. I've already blown the fuse once trying to guess.

 

this oughta do it for ya

 

For the first person that can look at their truck with the same wire colors as mine and tell me which go where i'll mail you a $10 starbucks giftcard.

 

On another note i am thinking of removing the rear locker actuator to test it engaging/disengaging. Will removing it leak gear oil? Will i have to drain the gear oil prior to removal?

 

You know I always wondered the same thing about the diff fluid, but unfortunitly I do not know. But I kind think it won't be an issue. I'd say pull it off but have a drip pan ready, than refill it after. Or better yet change it all anyway since its a good thing to do anyway. As far as removing the actuator it's easy but reinstallation has a specific procedure. Something about havin the actuator and worm gear in the axle housing in the lock position when installing and also lining up some indexing marks on the gears when they mesh.

I actually ended up just testing mine on the axle with 2 D size batteries wired up in series to make 3V and just applied power to the #5 and # 3 pin outs on the actuator plug while my wheels were off the ground. And heard the motor run until it stopped and spun the wheels and mine locked up nicely than reversed polarity on the pin outs to run the motor the other way to unlock it. Worked like a charm for me.

Check out that link I posted should be all the info you need on the wire colors...

 

Thanks for the info Stout890. I'm iffy on pulling that actuator off now that you mentioned it has to line up correctly. I changed my gear oil 10k miles ago, but wasting it isn't a big deal. I was just wondering since the locker actuator looked like it sat below the diff fill plug.

The problem i have now is that i got the rear locker to work, but my wire setup isn't correct, so it's stuck in lock mode. Which pretty much makes my truck undriveable. And i need it Monday.

I looked everywhere online including that link you gave me, but no where has wire colors that match up to mine even though mine is OEM. I'm thinking the wire colors changed year to year, california model, or 4x4, etc.

And with 120 possible wire configurations i don't know how i'll manage to get lucky and find the right setup.

 

Just apply 3v to pin 3 and 5, (the outside 2 pins in the center row) of the plug. Keep switching the polarity till you find the way it unlocks the diff. When I get to my computer I'll post some more links on the wiring, I have some stuff saved.

 

That's the problem i have, i don't know which pin is which since i am missing the connector.

This is what i'm dealing with:

 

Pin 3 is green and pin 5 is green with a red stripe. (the wires coming off of the actuator) I think I can see both of those in the picture. I'd try them to see if you can't get it unlocked. If they don't match up you may have to pull it to open it up and chase the wires to find out what's what.

 

Stound890, do you have more details on how i apply this 3v to the two wires. And yes i do have those two wires, i assumed those two were the ones sending power to lock/unlock since they are a thicker gauge than the others.

Just to try and narrow down the possibilities I am pretty sure black/white is ground. But i only have that on the car harness, not on the actuator. Is solid black on the actuator ground?

 

I had a D size battery holder I got at a hobby shop that held 2 D size batteries. Each batterie is 1.5 volts so 2 in series makes 3V. It had just some wires coming off for negative and positive and I just touched them to the pin outs on my locker plug for neg and positive. I wasn't sure which one was neg or positive so I just tried it both ways till it either locked or unlocked.

You can easily just tape some wires and 2 batteries together and have the same set up and just touch the wires to the green one and green/red striped one coming out of your locker on listen for motor movement

 

I'm not sure if i'm doing it wrong, but using 2 D batteries connected together and touching one of the wires off the actuator does nothing.

I noticed a connection on the car harness at the frame right above the driver's rear tire. Does anyone know the part number for this wiring from that connector on the frame to the connector at the diff? And the part number for the wire from the actuator?

 

Well you have to complete the circuit. Meaning the negative terminal of the battery to the negative lead coming off the diff and the positive battery terminal to the positive lead coming off the diff. Not just 1 wire.
Do you have any electrical experience?

 

Yeah the harness coming off of the frame is the wires that probably went to your oem switch. You said there was no oem switch correct? Where is it wired to now?