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rear o2 sensor - DONE!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by bowyer2002, Feb 26, 2011.

  1. May 4, 2012 at 5:31 AM
    #41
    bowyer2002

    bowyer2002 [OP] always tinkering

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    I bought mine from Amazon.
     
  2. May 4, 2012 at 10:28 AM
    #42
    kingston73

    kingston73 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for this thread. I never knew the sensor ever had a shield, mine has never had one on it since I bought it 7 years ago and I'm sure I'll have to cut it off once it needs replacing.
     
  3. May 4, 2012 at 11:47 AM
    #43
    takaya49

    takaya49 Pacific Rim Mushrooms

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  4. Jun 11, 2012 at 7:45 PM
    #44
    Tap

    Tap New Member

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    How do you guys recommend removing the shield without having access to a grinder?

    Thanks in advance
     
  5. Jun 11, 2012 at 7:49 PM
    #45
    koco

    koco Well-Known Member

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    Around $26,000 worth of unleaded in the fuel tank.
    I wonder what the FSM has to say about working with the shield.
     
  6. Jun 12, 2012 at 5:38 AM
    #46
    bowyer2002

    bowyer2002 [OP] always tinkering

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    An angle grinder is a relatively cheap tool that is VERY useful.
    Harbor Freight has them for under $20. Or Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
    What $$ you save on doing your own O2 sensor repair will far outweigh the cost of this tool.
    You can NEVER have too many tools. :)
     
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  7. Jul 4, 2012 at 7:26 AM
    #47
    The Happy Idiot

    The Happy Idiot Active Member

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    Toyota was nice enough to give me a new frame. JBA cat-back, aFe dry drop-in w/ deckplate, Bilstein 5100's all around, Timbrens, Alcan 5-leaf packs, OME 881's, linear clutch pedal return spring (best $3.49 I ever spent)
    The shield is ridiculous. I cut mine off last time I changed this. Unfortunately, I bought a Bosch sensor (hey, gimme a break. I'm an Audi fan....) so it's only been a couple years and I'm getting a p0141 again. Two years is long enough for those nuts to completely corrode to shit. I'm hoping I can take the muffler/exhaust off of the hangers so I can let it drop and give me a better angle with the grinder. I am super worried about grinding those studs off. Maybe throw some heat on there? It IS an exhaust system and should be tolerant of the torch...yes? First, I have to replace the steering rack on my wife's Forester. Priorities....
     
  8. Jul 4, 2012 at 7:27 AM
    #48
    The Happy Idiot

    The Happy Idiot Active Member

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    Toyota was nice enough to give me a new frame. JBA cat-back, aFe dry drop-in w/ deckplate, Bilstein 5100's all around, Timbrens, Alcan 5-leaf packs, OME 881's, linear clutch pedal return spring (best $3.49 I ever spent)
    Going with the Denso sensor this time, of course. I may be a boob but I'd like to think I learn from some of my mistakes....
     
    Hamer95USA likes this.
  9. Jul 4, 2012 at 6:06 PM
    #49
    pittim

    pittim mittip backwards

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    It’sa Lexus, boogie woogie woogie
    just get the urd sensor...
     
  10. Jul 4, 2012 at 9:01 PM
    #50
    BrianLV

    BrianLV Well-Known Member

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    From CamelBack the Air/Fuel sensor, and Oxygen Sensor would run about $250
     
  11. Jul 5, 2012 at 9:11 AM
    #51
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    well go to rockauto use your tacomeword discount, its in their vendor thread, and see what your cost is. the heat shield comes with it. and use the denso. factory parts seem to make the trucks happy.
     
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  12. Jul 14, 2012 at 2:59 PM
    #52
    genuine

    genuine Active Member

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    Bilstein 5100, AAL, Deckplate Mod, Magnaflow Cat-Back
    Nuts are almost rusted off and not to sure how I should proceed... any ideas?

    Thanks

    2012-07-14 14.53.04.jpg
     
  13. Jul 15, 2012 at 4:09 AM
    #53
    bowyer2002

    bowyer2002 [OP] always tinkering

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    mine were the same way, look at the original post as to how I got them off with a special Craftsman tool, good luck
     
  14. Jul 27, 2012 at 9:35 AM
    #54
    Morden

    Morden Well-Known Member

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    I just received my replacement Denso sensor...don't look forward to running up on some corroded nuts, lol.

    And what was Toyota thinking with that shield design? They should have made it so that a mechanic can easily remove/replace it when he's done with the maintenance, or just simply give easier access to the nuts in the first place.
     
  15. Jul 31, 2012 at 8:27 PM
    #55
    bowyer2002

    bowyer2002 [OP] always tinkering

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    /\ The shield does suck nd I still have not welded mine back on and I'm at 190K!
    I plan on re-installing it though - remember, they put them there for a reason (other than to super rust the nuts!) :)
     
  16. Oct 2, 2012 at 8:18 PM
    #56
    bassTaco

    bassTaco Active Member

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    Thanks bowyer2002 for the how to. This definitely helped in replacing my O2 sensor. Would have never figured out the location of the connector. However, didn't need to cut off the shield and made it easier that I had no rust issues.

    So here are my instructions to add to remove the O2 sensor without cutting the shield and if you don't have rust issues with the nuts.
    1) Remove the exhaust shield above the exhaust pipe that's mounted under the body. I am referring to the exhaust shield shown in bowyer2002's pics which sits above the O2 sensor location. Use an 8mm deep socket to remove both nuts that hold the exhaust shield. Be careful with the shield because edges are sharp.
    2) After removing the exhaust shield, use 12mm deep sockets to remove O2 sensor nuts. Be sure to understand direction to loosen the bolts as you will have to work the rachet opposite side of you.
    3) The rest is easy following bowyer2002's instructions. Just make sure to install the exhaust shield last when putting everything back together.

    Hope this helps!
     
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  17. Dec 24, 2012 at 9:58 AM
    #57
    budget76

    budget76 Active Member

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    soon want dual lockers Picture was my 85 dual arb great
    just found both denso o2 sensors on ebay. $75 shipped for both. OK going for it as truck has 135K on it with no known history. rock auto is $60 each, napa $105+ each. shop and plan and pb blaster early, not on removal/change day
     
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    #57
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  18. Dec 30, 2012 at 7:12 PM
    #58
    frank1970

    frank1970 Member

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    I think someone has already said this but I will say again in case I saw it in another thread.You can get the shield off without cutting it(depending on how rust the nuts are of course). Just take the heat shield that mounts to cab of the truck(right above O2 sensor. It's just 2 10mm nuts and it will give you room to access the O2 sensor nuts using a deep socket.
     
  19. Dec 30, 2012 at 7:19 PM
    #59
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    The write-ups online are pretty plain. invest in a can of power-blaster and give the nuts a squirt in the morning before driving, and the heat will loosen the rust and build-up on the nuts and bolts. Do the several days in advance, and they will pop right off. power-blaster will not be wasted with a truck, there are lots of things that need treating. the spare tire, emergency brake, ect.
     
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  20. Oct 31, 2013 at 3:10 PM
    #60
    rjstubbs

    rjstubbs Bama Dude

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    Occasionally wash
    Guys the mpg is definite! My mpg has dropped from 25 (2001 Taco w/5 speed manual) to 18 since my engine light came on. I am gearing up to change my A/F sensors ASAP. Thanks for the info guys!
     

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