Rear ride hight??

I have a question that I thought would make for great discussion. I bought my taco several years ago. When I did I was told that it had a suspension lift but he didn’t know what kind. Based on all my research I assumed it was just a leveler kit. Had the front strut spacer and I thought stock rear spring. It has a 3 pack w/over load(total 4). I have read everywhere that they come stock with either 3 or 4 leaf pack so that was of no help. Anyways fast forward to a couple of month ago. I put a BDS 6” lift with the 2.5 fox coil overs with remote reservoirs on my truck. Per convos with accutune I also replaced the coils with 650 lb springs to handle weight. I also replaced the UCA’s with the BDS ones made for their 6” lift so I have tons of room for alignment adjustment. I also have a magnum RT steel bumper w/12000 lb winch. I am extremely happy with this set up.

Here is my issue. When I started investigating issues with my carrier bearing I realized the shaft is only in the yoke about 1 inch. This was rectified by a Tom Woods drive line that I installed since the mentioned carrier bearing was on its last leg.
That was all the back story so you know where I am coming from and what made me start questioning what’s going on with my trucks ride height. Ihave been confused by the “center of hub to fender” measurements everyone has been posting. Most people are saying stock TRD OR is 20 front and 22 rear.

My measurements are:
Front Both sides:25 5/8”(they accounted for the taco lean already)
Rear both sides: 27 3/4”
Based on everyone’s measurements my front is correct assuming the 3/8” drop is from bumper/winch weight. I ordered 700lb springs to compensate for the weight (aswell as additional weight from roof rack, skidplates in future) but am waiting to install until my Other parts come in so I can do it all at once.(dirt logic LCA’s, SOS performance front big break &rear disc conversion kits that I already ordered) this way I can use the preload to raise front level instead of compensating for the weight. BUT, I want to figure out what going on in the rear while I’m waiting.
Based on everyones info my rear should be at 26” (22 stock + 4 for lift block)” which means I’m sitting 1 3/4 to high? Im not to concerned (I actually love how she sits) I just want to know for information purposes. Ill include a pic so you can see what I am talking about.

So, all that to ask-
1. do you think I have lifted(arched) or stock rear leaf springs? or am I just losing my mind?
2. Also, are any of you running the sos big break front kit and/or rear disc conversion kit w/ sequoia booster? What do you like/dislike about them if you are?

Thanks for any help, info, or even thoughts!!

Info so you can make an informed answer-
2005 DCSB TRD OffRoad w/ manual Trans
Fab Four steel rear bumper, steel sliders/steps, steel magnum RT front bumper w/ winch @lights.
6” BDS lift w/ fox coil overs, 35” tires on 18”wheels.

below are some pics to show the ride heights and how she sits. The close up of rear tire is best pic I have of leaf spring. And the front is to show my cv’s are almost flat so I have lots of room to adjust

 

Are you running 4” lift blocks under factory springs? (4 leaf pack)

 

Yes, I believe so. They look just like the factory 4 pack(3+overload), and the BDS kit uses longer coil overs up front with 4” blocks in rear. But my hub to fender measurements don’t match what almost every thread out is saying it should be. My long term plan is to have arched lift springs swapped in to have that 4 inches transferred to the spring so I can eliminate the block.
My concern is more for in the future. I have an easy solution to make the truck sit level in front. And I have found some reasonably priced lifted/arched leaf springs online to eliminate the block but my concern is that if my current springs do have “lift”in them then the new ones would actually not match and make my rear end squat after the change out. If i can’t figure it out then i guess I’ll have to just go the more expensive route and take my truck to a custom spring shop. But I would bunch rather put that money towards the skid plates. If it was just highway driver I wouldn’t care but I use my truck and don’t want to have to deal with a block shifting on me out on the trails. Don’t get me wrong- I have not had any issues with the kit, BDS makes a great product and I love it. I’m just not a huge fan of blocks when articulating the suspension here she is when I was testing. AND NO I DONT RUB thanks to front a mount shop.

 

I’ll try to take some close up’s of the leaf springs tomorrow.

 

If by chance your rear isn't as high as you want get a aal. I don't think what you had prior really matters.. If you got a 6" lift for the front match it in the rear or less to level. You can have leaf packs made custom for your ride also

 

I actually really like where it sits now. What lead me to the question is accutune and fox/bds said my front is sitting where it should be (3/8 low due to bumper/winch). But my rear is 1 3/4 higher then that. However the bds lift kit is 6 front and 4 rear to sit level. For some reason my truck is still sitting with the factor rake. Which said companies said should not be the case and to check the leaf pack. I’ll post pic of my leaf springs tomorrow.
And thank you all for replying. It is much appreciated. Its a frustration because it should be straight forward and obvious to me but I can’t see it. I’m sure it’s looking me right in the eyes, I just can’t see it
Also, this is not the first truck I built/building. I built a 42 willys(Ford) flat fender Jeep, 52 willys pick up, and a 72 gmc. Also, with custom lift kits. But of course those are old school and solid axels.

 

I honestly don’t know why it is setting higher.
But I like the rake, I like the way it looks and that I can still haul stuff in the bed and not have the headlight pointing too high up.

 

I wonder if you have the original 3 leaf pack with an add a leaf for a total 4. The extra amount of lift in the rear seems like that may be it.

But based on what you said you do like the rake it kept I would just order a 6 inch leaf pack from any company that fabricates leaf springs. Just give them your specs and any additional weight you carry so they don't sag/squat the minute you throw anything in the bed.

 

Ok here are some pics you asked for.

Rear view



Front view



I having been trying to look at some on stock rigs in parking lots to see what the stock ones look like but people look at me like I’m a crazed maniac when I ask if I can look lol. And then I had a security guard call cops on me when I just looked under a parked one so I decided to stop people are so nice now a days aren’t they?
I know I can just leave it and be done with it but I would really like to know what I’m driving around on. Of course once I get the shell on, both roof racks, cvt top tent, etc and fully loaded I might be squatting to level actually. Lol

I want to do black bear pass, other Rockies trails, some Moab type stuff so I don’t want to be out somewhere like that dealing with a shifted rear block. It probably won’t happen but just knowing it can is what I don’t like. I already had it over Nachez up by Mt Rainer with the current set up and it did just fine so maybe I’m being paranoid.
Again thanks everyone I appreciate it. The taco community is a pretty cool place to be a part of

 

Shooter- I know right? I do too. I have a melted low beam so the rake has allowed me to drive around with brights on. Tomorrow these go in though to fix that situation- so I won’t need to deal with that.


Once I put heavier coils and slight adjustment on preload my rake should only be about 1 inch so I would be happy with that. Kinda of a meet in the middle situation. Then like I said when weighed down I’ll sit level. I know people get on DB’s for center of gravity but I have had no issues what so ever. Only once on top part of nachez did i have issue. And all I did was have a buddy stand on corner of bumper and that was because I picked a wrong line. Last time I was up there before then was years previously and I had my willys rock crawler on 38s so this was a whole new world lol.

 

For what it’s worth, the stock leaf springs (3+1) on my 2013 are pretty much flat. Yours seem to have a some decent arch in them. They might end up settling a bit lower over time.

 

Zach- thanks for the info. Most of the ones I’ve seen have been more flatter aswell. If mine are stock then they have been on her for 16 years. If they haven’t settled over that time I doubt they every will. so far it sounds like Jimmy might be the closest. I must have had a 3 pack TRD OR set up and the guy before me put an add-a-leaf on it. Well it’s good to at least start narrowing it down as to what I have.
Thanks again to everyone who has commented. Much apreciated.
And by the way, those alpha Rex novas above are insanely bright. Just hooked them up. Plus now I have day time running lights